Can You Tell Me What This Does

[Phil]

While you were all enjoying yourselves at Stoneleigh, We spent the day trying to sort out my engine stopping. Tightened the fuel pump electrical connections this made it more stable. First impressions were that this might fix it. It didn't:shock: engine runs quite happy then stops. One carb sucks through the air intake strongly the other hardly at all. Stripped them down and got it all better but still not right. will not idle less than 1000rpm. At this stage we decided that further work was needed but we were now too cold to care. Will have another go next week end but in the meantime can someone tell me what this screw adjusts on the Stromberg carb.

Thanks in advance

Phil

[GTJones]

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Hi Phil

This is the Trimming Screw



The book says it is used to fine adjust the idle - Quote "Used to compensate for the difference betyween a new - tight engine -and and older unit which has freed off. It regulates a controled amount of air that can be introduced into the mixing chamber - it is not an ordinary mixture adjusting screw and cannot be used as such!



Hope that help

Gary

[Phil]

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Thanks Gary

I am sure it will.

Phil

[Guest]

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Hi Phil, that screw has virtually no effect on running, screw it all the wayin, then back off 3/4 of a turn, that's it.

Your problem sounds like a miss-fitted or holed diaghram if one piston is lifting further than the other. Holes can be difficult to spot so changing them for new is a good idea. Is the A & R pipe in place ? is the pipe from the front of the carb pedestal to the air filter in place ?

Have you tried adjusting the carbs from scratch ? including re-setting the needles to a common datum,then tuning with both thethrottle rods and the throttle cabledisconnected. A bit tedious but I'll bet that will solve it. Cheers, Martin. P.S. Sorry you missed today, it was a goodun.

[Phil]

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Martin

Yes we have tried pretty much all that you have suggested we checked the diaphrams very carefully and could see no holes. to adjust the needles on one side it was locked solid and we couldn,t move it. So this is where we will start next week end. Once everything was packed up and the car put away I remembered I had downloaded Don Kennedys Stag Manual and this does make things clearer (Horses and bolts spring to mind:X).

Is there a recomended refurb kit that might be worth getting before hand

Phil

We will manage to meet up one day

[Guest]

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Hi, IMHO the kits are not worth the money, I would still replace the diaghrams though, also needle valves and float chamber gaskets. If you have a jammed needle I would be very careful trying to remove it, the holders are made of unobtanium. Not idling below 1000 rpm suggests overfuelling ie high floats or shot needle valves, your stuck needle could add to this. Strangely, the Haynes manual instructions are a lift from the original and very good. Martin.

[RayPreston]

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Hi Phil

Give me a shout if you are off on thursday and you want me to have a look - I wouldnt want you loosing any more washers ...........



Ray

[Phil]

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Well I think we've done it

As we had a spare set of carbs that had supposedly been refurbed we decided last Thursday to strip both sets and make one good set out of both. Initially this worked but we ended up with a fuel leak from the float gaskets. SWMBO not happy as garage part of the house so whole house stank of petrol for a couple of days.

Stripped again today found sticky needles, slow return of the plunger thingys, out of balance. So much adjusting with my new adjusting tool cleaning re sealing and tweaking it all now works

Car is now quieter and smoother so this job was long overdue

Even the sun came out on the way home.



Phil