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Timing chain cover sump gasket bodging

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    Timing chain cover sump gasket bodging

    Hello all,

    any advice on refitting the timing chain cover when it comes to the sump gasket? I've cut and cleaned off the surfaces - if I buy a sump gasket, will it be possible to splice it in? Easier put it on the cover, or the sump?!

    Thanks!

    #2
    I watched the Rimmer Bros Video yesterday on the subject and the guy doing the job, did it with it with the sump in place, obviously on a stand and drained of oil, he left the sump in place and described cleaning the surfaces and used silicone sealant at the sump front ( no gasket piece) I would imagine it would be a real pain trying to get a piece in and not disturbing it when re fitting the cover.
    If I were doing it I would take off the sump and fit a complete new gasket, chances are you may get crap in there from scraping off the old cover gasket.

    Roga

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      #3
      The first time I did my heads & timing chains I used the proscribed technique (ROM page 12.65.12, No.56) and lots of Wellseal. That was successful.
      The next time I did the heads & timing chains (don't ask!!) I used the same technique but this time it leaked from the front, a steady drip from between the sump and front cover.
      I then dropped the front crossmember, removed the sump and replaced the entire sump gasket.
      No silicon was used.

      Richard
      Richard
      Mabel is a white 1972 Mk1½, TV8, Mo/d.

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        #4
        So far I've done everything just in the road outside my house, but access to the sump will be a right pain I imagine! I'd rather not have to take it off if I can get away with it. Is hylomar the same stuff as wellseal?

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          #5
          Removing the sump is the best solution but I ended up splicing the gasket as i ran out of time to remove the sump. I loosened all the sump bolts I could get too and gently prised the sump away from the block by a few millimetres. This allows the timing cover to slide on without disturbing the spliced section of the sump gasket. Cut the sump gasket and use silicone sealer on both surfaces and position, then refit the timing cover. Once the timing cover is positioned, I pulled up the sump bolts. It has worked so far but I will drop the sump off at some point......probably over the next few weeks as I seem to have some spare time......

          Comment


            #6
            this worked for me

            when refitting the timing cover I was concerned about the rather sorry-looking sump gasket and I could not drop the sump significantly without shifting the steering rack, cross-member, etc. So I relieved the inner corners of the timing cover slightly as they wanted to dig in to the gasket. Then the exposed sump gasket was thinly smeared with The Right Stuff sealant, then a strip of Bake-o-glide applied covering the jutting out part of the sump, a bead of the sealant was run along the top of the Bake-o-glide behind where the timing cover would end up and, as the cover was gently pushed back, the Bake-o-glide was eased out to deposit the sealant bead into the back of the joint.
            In case you have not encountered Bake-o-glide, it is a very thin, incredibly strong, almost untearable non-stick polymer usually used as a liner for cooking trays.

            worth a try if you can get a suitable sheet of the polymer.

            Comment


              #7
              You don't need to remove the sump, just drop it a few mm. Then use shim steel to help the timing cover slide over the new bit of front sump gasket without picking up on it.

              At least, that is how I did mine, and no leaks so far.
              Header tanks - you can't beat a bit of bling.

              Comment

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