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    Engine mount bolts..

    Before I put the welder away I was going to weld a fillet across my engine mount bolts..

    I found that the engine mounts go in front of the bracket, but which way should the bolts go through to allow me the easiest acess to the nuts.

    Bolt head to the rear of the car nut to the front? it looks like the front access is best,.or bolt head to the front of the car nut to the rear?

    Terry
    Terry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware

    www.terryhunt.co.uk

    #2
    My nuts are welded on, I assumed they all were by the factory. I think it’s head at front..

    Confirmed bolt head at front.
    Last edited by KOY 23; 17 April 2020, 15:29.

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      #3
      Parts manual show the nuts to the front of the car. A tip given to me was to weld a small bar across the heads of the bolts effectively joining them together at the correct hole centres so that when you come to tighten them up you only need a spanner on one side. I know when I took my engine out it was a nightmare removing the bolts due to power steering hoses etc which I ended up cutting.
      John
      1978 Stag Brooklands Green

      Comment


        #4
        I mixed mine up , one side i have 2 nuts welded to a bit of flat bar and the other side (pas side iirc) i have 1 bolt head welded to a nut via a bit of flat bar. I just did it so everything was tightenable from the front as something got in the way of passing both bolts through frome the same side.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Stagdad View Post
          I mixed mine up , one side i have 2 nuts welded to a bit of flat bar and the other side (pas side iirc) i have 1 bolt head welded to a nut via a bit of flat bar. I just did it so everything was tightenable from the front as something got in the way of passing both bolts through frome the same side.
          Haha. All different answers.. and I have a LHD so probably another one! Well that settles it.. I’ll wait until the engine is in place - the welder stays in one piece!

          terry
          Terry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware

          www.terryhunt.co.uk

          Comment


            #6
            I put the bolts in from the front and nuts from the back. I have small hands, every combination of rackets. sockets, flex joints, spanners, crow foots, etc help too

            Having heard installing mounts is a beast of a job with the engine in mentally prepared me and that helped too.

            Sujit


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              #7
              I have the small hands but they are getting too old... on my first posting I was the only one that could change a fan on the Red Steer radar without major disassembly as I could get my hand down there with a nut stuck on my longest finger!

              I was just looking at it again, looks like the left side will be the problem, I think I will make a pair of bolts, a pair of nuts and a nut bolt combo..
              hopefully that will cover it!

              Terry
              Last edited by trunt; 17 April 2020, 20:41.
              Terry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware

              www.terryhunt.co.uk

              Comment


                #8
                Regarding the bolts, the parts book says HU910, would a shouldered bolt be better here than a fully threaded bolt or as the book says setscrew? There is no shearing load, but just wondering.
                Sujit

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by sujitroy View Post
                  Regarding the bolts, the parts book says HU910, would a shouldered bolt be better here than a fully threaded bolt or as the book says setscrew? There is no shearing load, but just wondering.
                  Sujit
                  Given the thickness of the engine mount + the thickness of the chassis bracket I think you might run out of thread with a shouldered bolt or bottom out the nut before it is fully tightened. A 3/8" UNF x 1 1/4" lg bolt has nominally a 1" threaded part which leaves 1/4"unthreaded. I would always go with a setscrew.
                  These bolts are in constant shear.
                  John
                  1978 Stag Brooklands Green

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by trunt View Post

                    I was just looking at it again, looks like the left side will be the problem, I think I will make a pair of bolts, a pair of nuts and a nut bolt combo..
                    hopefully that will cover it!

                    Terry
                    In the end as I had removed the steering rack it was easy peasy..
                    Terry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware

                    www.terryhunt.co.uk

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by JOHNS View Post

                      Given the thickness of the engine mount + the thickness of the chassis bracket I think you might run out of thread with a shouldered bolt or bottom out the nut before it is fully tightened. A 3/8" UNF x 1 1/4" lg bolt has nominally a 1" threaded part which leaves 1/4"unthreaded. I would always go with a setscrew.
                      These bolts are in constant shear.
                      Thanks for the correction about sheer. i just too a look at my box of misc. hex bolts and set screws and have quite a few 1 1/8' long but no 1 1/4" bolts. Some have the shoulders. I don't have my parts book close by but maybe those are prop shaft bolts.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Thanks for the correction about sheer. i just too a look at my box of misc. hex bolts and set screws and have quite a few 1 1/8' long but no 1 1/4" bolts. Some have the shoulders. I don't have my parts book close by but maybe those are prop shaft bolts.

                        Prop shaft bolts are 1 1/8" long. I would not recommend re-using old prop shaft bolts especially the nyloc nuts should never be re-used.
                        John
                        1978 Stag Brooklands Green

                        Comment

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