Slow electric windows....

[Petenic]

Hi guys...got a bit of time on my hands ,so slowly getting through the job list...coming up soon on that list ,is that both my door windows operate very slowly - which i'm guessing is quite common..? I have quickly tried to lub the seals but that didn't make any difference -with all your guys experience ,can any of you suggest where the best place to start looking for a cure ?
Thanks

[RogerS]

Is your battery up to the job.

Rog

[71Stag]

Mine worked a lot better after I replaced the switches they're not cheap though
Bruce

[StagJonno]

Could be a number of things, including excessive friction in the regulator mech, "lazy" motors, a duff battery (as Rog says) or a high resistance connection in the circuit. I'd check this latter one first, if they're both slow to the same extent. Take off the door cards and measure the voltage across the motor as you operate the switch. If it drops significantly then look at the connector (think it's either on the relay board, or close by, behind the parcel shelf). You're looking for the Slate/ Green wires.

Whilst you've got the door cards off, you can inspect the regulator mech and apply lubrication as necessary.

There have been previous threads referring to certain replacement window channels being too tight and creating too much friction. I believe proper channels are now available - try a search.

Jonno

[Bakdraft007]

Hi guys...got a bit of time on my hands ,so slowly getting through the job list...coming up soon on that list ,is that both my door windows operate very slowly - which i'm guessing is quite common..? I have quickly tried to lub the seals but that didn't make any difference -with all your guys experience ,can any of you suggest where the best place to start looking for a cure ?
Thanks

Mine are extremely slow too and I have a brand new battery and brand new switches. I will be swapping to new handles this weekend, so a golden opportunity to explore. Any clues on what the regulator mechanism is and where its located?

Dave

[mallardstag]

Any clues on what the regulator mechanism is and where its located?

Dave

It's the mechanical linkage that connects the window motor to the window (a bit like a scissor jack mechanism) and you'll find it inside the door. It get's stiff after all these years and can slow the window movement by putting a lot more strain on the motor.

[mole42]

On my car the passenger window works well, the drivers one is slow.... I'm taking the mechanism out to investigate.

[Petenic]

Thanks guys - I will investigate...

[Lingen]

Pete.
Remove the inner trim, and, keeping your fingers clear, operate the window. You will soon see how it works, and the places where some lubrication will be needed. Note also the channel on the bottom of the glass where the arm, hopefully still with its nylon roller on the end, fits. I usually put a bit if grease in there. Also check that there is a small amount of free play between the glass and the frame. If it is tight, then the rubber channel might need replacing with the correct one which is now available.
Mike.

[Petenic]

Thanks for that Mike - I will have a look next week....

[69k4mbo]

Hi guys...got a bit of time on my hands ,so slowly getting through the job list...coming up soon on that list ,is that both my door windows operate very slowly - which i'm guessing is quite common..? I have quickly tried to lub the seals but that didn't make any difference -with all your guys experience ,can any of you suggest where the best place to start looking for a cure ?
Thanks

When you say ‘lube’ .... what did you use?

[wilf]

Gummi Pfledge (spelling?) or Halfrauds silicon spray (sparingly).

[Robin Searle]

I experience slow windows a couple of years ago, spoke to a friend who owns an auto electrical, rebuilding shop, his suggestion was and it worked was to replace the wires going into the motors with heavier rated wires. As I said when this was done worked well, his other tip was to wire a resettable fuse, just under the top edge of the carpet then wire that to the two terminals in the relay box attached to the front wall under the glove box. It makes it so much easier to reset it rather than bend as a pretzel to reach the original location of the fuse. One other suggestion and I have made this previously if replacing your window switches, replace them with a BRITISH made, switch the same #, Lucas switch 150655 but was fitted to several Jags of that era... I had ordered Stag switches from Paddocks but received a call that the last delivered order was junk and they were returned from whence they came, he recommended the same switch, better made and came with windows on the body of the switch so that you could see the points connecting and fully adjustable if not connecting. Now try that with the Indian/Chinese made switches where all the contacts are inside the body and not able to see what is going on...

For the purists, there needs to be a modification to the plug ends on the Stag wiring, this switch comes with male spades and you need to fit the female receptors, not a hard job to do but will give a better connection.

Since doing all of these small changes the windows have worked 100%. I just realized that I had not included the Paddock part # DAC130# JD05D. In the Jag parts book the window switches are Lucas 150655 exactly the same # as in the Stag parts book.

[Bakdraft007]

Well that was a bit bizzarre...

As mentioned, whilst sorting my new handles out I thought I would have a look at my slow windows. I did the passenger side first, WD 40 to the difficult to reach bits, grease to the other bits.. It seemed to improve it.

The on the drivers side I did the same.. but then it started to make creaking noises then got slower then kept stalling...

On investigating the creaking noise it was clear it was coming from the coiled spring you can see behind the door card. I think it didn't like me applying WD40 to it... I think before it was covered in dry rust and the WD40 turned it into a gritty substance that just started to bind on the spring... Luckily I got the window to the top, so I could carry on with the handle. It seemed a bit better after it had dried a bit, so I am hpoing that by leaving it to dry fully it will hopefully get better. If not .... well I am not looking forwards to the alternative after reading the ROM.

Hmmm I don't think I will put WD40 on the spring again!