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    Replacing driveshaft gaiters

    I need to replace the perished gaiters over the sliding spline driveshaft joints.
    I've read in the manuals how to remove the whole outer driveshaft, but it occurred to me to wonder if it is possible (or practicable) to simply disconnect the inner UJ flange and tilt the shaft downwards and split the shaft at the splined joint to enable gaiter replacement in situ.
    Any advice on this please?
    Thanks,
    Chris

    #2
    I think you will find , there's just not enough room to get the female end off the end of the splined shaft as it hits on the diff flange,
    "The UK,s 2nd Most Easterly Stag" Quad Exhaust- ZF 4 Speed BOX

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      #3
      Ah, thanks - have to do it properly then!
      Chris

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        #4
        I replaced mine twice is a short space of time. The rubbish rubber they were made of perished in no time and others complained of the same problem. Fed up with this the last time I did the job I used a pair of universal CV boots, still look like new 4 years later. Look at post #4 on this thread - I think the picture links still work.




        Roger
        Now Stagless but have numerous car projects
        So many cars, so little time!

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          #5
          Possibly if you undo the shockabsorber lower nut, it will allow the trailing arm to drop away from diff. Worth a try
          Yellow Rules OK

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            #6
            Roger, thanks for that and the attached threads - very useful information contained in them!
            Chris

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              #7
              Can't help on the technical side, but you have restored my faith in humanity by spelling gaiter correctly. Every time someone has written gator I've had to resist the temptation to write "be careful, they bite!"
              The answer isn't 42, it's 1/137

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                #8
                I've done this by undoing the inner flanges. As Andrew writes, if you undo the shock absorber lower attachment, the trailing arm will drop further so you can get the inner piece of the driveshaft off. Don't forget that the exhaust will also be trying to stop you achieving this!

                Richard
                Richard
                Mabel is a white 1972 Mk1½, TV8, Mo/d.

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                  #9
                  I used motor cycle front fork gaitors on the sliding joint of my TR5 shafts, worth a look

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                    #10
                    I cut mine in half down one side and superglued them back, still there 2 years and 10,000 miles later
                    Superglue really only sticks 2 things REALLY well, Human Skin and Rubber, if you remember back in the day when they launched the product they showed a Gymnast bouncing up and down on on recently glued rubber

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by bonnietiler750 View Post
                      .. if you remember back in the day when they launched the product they showed a Gymnast bouncing up and down on on recently glued rubber
                      Good old Durex; what will they think of next??

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                        #12
                        Thanks guys for all the helpful tips!
                        I just dug out a spare Rimmers track rod gaiter and it looks as if it could fit if I trim a fraction off the rod end to enlarge it to about 25mm, then shorten the whole thing and cable-tie it down. This was a solution suggested by Flyingfarmer in the thread attached to post 4.

                        A couple of questions - 1) Why would the rubber in the steering gaiter last much longer than the driveshaft gaiter rubber? Are they made to a higher standard?
                        2) Has anyone ever tried using bicycle inner tube? A 1.75 inch tube would fit quite well and would just need scrunching up a bit to accept the in-out spline movement. How much is the movement in and out anyway?

                        Chris

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                          #13
                          Track rod gaiters are designed to accommodate a lot of movement and so must be made of a suitable material.

                          The proper materials are out there, just shows there is no excuse for the crap quality of stuff they are trying to sell us

                          Neil
                          Neil
                          TV8, efi, fast road cams and home built manifolds. 246bhp 220lbft torque

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