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    #16
    imported post

    Thanks everybody, I haven't got a sensor in the top hose although it does have about a 12 inch electric fan thats switched on inside the car.
    There is a small puddle under the radiator in the bottom guard but the drip is quite substantial from somewhere under the fan. It drips off the front bottom lip of the sump. ( I'm assuming the sump comes to the front of the car ). I'll try the talc trick but I,ve felt round all the hoses and they feel dry. Terry

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      #17
      imported post

      Hi Terry,

      Got the same problem, started sat morning, changed the the bottom hose from expansion bottle to top of rad as it appeared to be weeping out of bottom hose,

      Have topped up coolant, no leaks on tickover, however soon as i go out for a run come back and pop the hood coolant is all over left side of bay and dripping along bottom of rad (leading edge) also expansion bottle fills up. cannot see where leak is , so let us know if you manage to fix yours and i will do the same .

      regards

      Mike


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        #18
        imported post

        Darren

        Could you post a picture of your mercedes header tanks please:X

        Also what mercedes dose it come from

        thank Dave

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          #19
          imported post

          new to this wrote:
          Darren

          Could you post a picture of your mercedes header tanks please:X

          Also what mercedes dose it come from

          thank Dave
          W124

          Cheers Steve
          Attached Files

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            #20
            imported post

            The saga continues. Changed another suspect hose, filled up the cooling system and went a short run. The car quickly reached operating temperature and continued rising,( normally runs on the E in TEMP, this time reached the M as I got home. Switched off the ignition and the car continued running, turned off the battery isolator ( inside the cab ), still running and running very smoothly. The only way I could stop it was to remove the dizzy cap. Now I've heard of pre-ignition before but when I've experience it before on other old cars it's been a very rough type of running engine, this was as smooth as silk. Am I missing something or have I discovered perpetual motion. I'm now assuming (hoping ) I've got a sticking thermostat as well as a leak. Help Terry

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              #21
              imported post

              Terry

              Re running on. I would suspect the ignition switch is tracking. If your battery isolator switch has a fused bypass to power clock etc, it would run the ignition. If no fuse the ignition was being powered by the alternator. Easy way to stop engine is to pull LT wire off coil. Sorry can't help with your waterworks

              John

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                #22
                imported post

                Thanks John, the battery isolator isolates everything so I would have thought that the alternator was isolated too, I'll have to check the wiring diagram. Terry

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                  #23
                  imported post

                  John you were dead right, the battery isolator does not isolate the alternator, sorry I doubted you. I though it acted as an anti theft device, cheers Terry

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                    #24
                    imported post

                    Hi Terry.

                    It will do providing it isolates the battery from the starter and ignition, as you wont be able to bump start it. Really for safety it should be on the battery, but this is often not so convenient to operate. You can get keyfob operated isolators.

                    John.

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                      #25
                      imported post

                      Hi John, mine's special key operated just above the pedals, I'd assumed it was some kind of manual immobiliser that isolated the battery and other items. Mine's an auto so bump starting's out. Terry

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