Questions for a Body man or Sprayer

[alan_thomas]

I am finally getting around to my second Stag and have a couple of questions about panel prep and hopefully there is someone on here with professional experience.

Questions are:-
1. Repair panels come in a rather poor red oxide finish, I am assuming all of this , inside and out, has to be removed?
2. I have a couple of original NOS wings, they are covered in the original black finish. its in good condition but, again, must all of this be removed?
3. Prior to refitting a replacement panel I am assuming I need to spray the inside of the panel with the same degree of paint protection as I would the outside of the panel. Once fitted the insides of most panels will be inaccessible to give any further treatment, What would the professional do to protect against further rusting (I only want to do this job once!)
4. I am never going to get a repair panel to be blemish free across the joins, should filler only go on bare metal or can it go over a good etch primer?

Sorry if this questions have been answered elsewhere but I am becoming paranoid about the repairs I am doing prior to having it professionally painted, to have all bodywork done and painted by a company is outside by budget for the project but I don't want the job to start rusting on the inside or top paint falling off before I get it home from the sprayers!
- Alan

[Motorsport Micky]

You are asking the wrong people.
Many professional paint shops won’t apply paint over paint they haven’t laid on themselves...they have no idea what’s underneath. They will have been caught out with owners previous indifferent preparation and when “Fish eyes” or other faults appear In their 18 months since painted Shell you’ll blame them.
Go to the Paint shop you will use for final finish and tell them what you want and ask THEM how they want the shell prepared.

As for the insides of panels strip to bare metal. Iv’e seen rust under every factory finished panel no matter what paint is there. Then wash off with Jennolite and follow it’s neutralising regime. Then brush or spray in Bondarust primer, it sticks like —-t to a blanket and even resists heat from welding just turning brown. If you are spotwelding use zinc heavy weld through spray onto the Bare metal sandwiching faces on the inside, and leave bare metal outside until welded and then Bondaprimer and finish... as long as the paint shop is happy... good luck.

Micky

PS: I’m not a body man or sprayer but this regime is what’s recommended by TR body men who are.

[tvrgeek]

Don't know about the red oxide, but the black is to keep it looking decent just to your door. I am not a pro, but I hung around in a pro
's shop for years on weekends and over enough beers, picked up a lot of information. I think Micky has it right.

[new to this]

I am finally getting around to my second Stag and have a couple of questions about panel prep and hopefully there is someone on here with professional experience.

Questions are:-
1. Repair panels come in a rather poor red oxide finish, I am assuming all of this , inside and out, has to be removed?
2. I have a couple of original NOS wings, they are covered in the original black finish. its in good condition but, again, must all of this be removed?
3. Prior to refitting a replacement panel I am assuming I need to spray the inside of the panel with the same degree of paint protection as I would the outside of the panel. Once fitted the insides of most panels will be inaccessible to give any further treatment, What would the professional do to protect against further rusting (I only want to do this job once!)
4. I am never going to get a repair panel to be blemish free across the joins, should filler only go on bare metal or can it go over a good etch primer?

Sorry if this questions have been answered elsewhere but I am becoming paranoid about the repairs I am doing prior to having it professionally painted, to have all bodywork done and painted by a company is outside by budget for the project but I don't want the job to start rusting on the inside or top paint falling off before I get it home from the sprayers!
- Alan

1/ yes remove paint
2/ yes remove paint
3/ yes remove paint
4/ no i wouldnt use etch primer use epoxy instead ,epoxy primer has a built in inhibitor

Plus your proberly going to use 2 pack paint on the car , the thinners used for 2k paint can react with the etch primer ,most body shops now days use epoxy primer

Dave

[new to this]

You are asking the wrong people.
Many professional paint shops won’t apply paint over paint they haven’t laid on themselves...they have no idea what’s underneath. They will have been caught out with owners previous indifferent preparation and when “Fish eyes” or other faults appear In their 18 months since painted Shell you’ll blame them.
Go to the Paint shop you will use for final finish and tell them what you want and ask THEM how they want the shell prepared.

As for the insides of panels strip to bare metal. Iv’e seen rust under every factory finished panel no matter what paint is there. Then wash off with Jennolite and follow it’s neutralising regime. Then brush or spray in Bondarust primer, it sticks like —-t to a blanket and even resists heat from welding just turning brown. If you are spotwelding use zinc heavy weld through spray onto the Bare metal sandwiching faces on the inside, and leave bare metal outside until welded and then Bondaprimer and finish... as long as the paint shop is happy... good luck.

Micky

PS: I’m not a body man or sprayer but this regime is what’s recommended by TR body men who are.

body shops would use a paint sealer if they dont know what paint has been used

[trunt]

Yes, remove all paint to start, epoxy is the way to go it sticks well and is one of the best things to prevent rust.. There is some discussion on filler over paint or not but I have always started with a coat of epoxy then filled, but rough it up before you put the filler on. Once it’s reasonably level another coat of epoxy over the lot, that way any bare spots from sanding will get epoxy on them. That’s worked for me for 20 years, no rust through ever seen.

Terry

[bullstarz]

Paint back to metal for the best results and that means removing any filler on the good panels and doing it again unless its very good.

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Then filling and flattening, filling and flattening, filling and flattening, filling and flattening, filling and flattening, filling and flattening, filling and flattening, filling and flattening you get the picture. I was always told when you think you have done it close your eyes and run your finger tips over the car, it works, for some reason and shows any imperfections.

(The only mistake I made (well one of them) was that i had already done the doors years before but didn't them back on. I regret not doing this and you cant get the lines all dialled in from front to rear without them).

Then followed good wipe down with a tack cloth followed by the primmer. Then Light dust coat ( back). Then sand it again to see if there any high/low spots left by the dust coat. Then it's ready to start the paint process.


Its an enjoyable process as long as you have a loads of time and no dead line to meet. Don't skimp or rush the prep or you will regret it. High build primer is a godsend it could make a ugly woman nice.

[Jeff]

Well considering Motorsport Mickey tells you that you re asking the wrong people then gives you loads of advice tells me you asking the right people along with all the other 'correct' advice given .

[alan_thomas]

Thanks guys for all your advice. remove all the paint and 2 pack epoxy it is then. Bullstarz recommends feeling whether the surface is flat, just as well with my eyes as I certainly cannot see if it flat!

- Alan

[new to this]

Thanks guys for all your advice. remove all the paint and 2 pack epoxy it is then. Bullstarz recommends feeling whether the surface is flat, just as well with my eyes as I certainly cannot see if it flat!

- Alan

Alan

When removing the paint dont be tempted to do it the easy way with paint stripper ,it can come back and bite you in the wallet especially if it gets into a seam , use angle grinder with wire wheel or a sanding disc

Dave

[trunt]

I found these things worked good for removing paint without damaging the surface. Just watch them near edges as the bristles can fly off! 3M make them amongs others. and you can get different "grits"

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