Gauges

[JOHNS]

I am thinking about replacing my temperature gauge with a combined oil pressure/water temp. gauge from Holdens. Anyone have any experience?

GAUGE.jpg

[wilf]

Yes, I did exactly that. Works fine.

However, due the the normal range of oil pressure in a Stag engine, I plumped for a gauge with a lower full scale figure, as if you use one with 100psi as its upper limit, you will only ever see the needle in maybe 40 to 50% of the deflection available, which is incorrect to my mind.

So my oil pressure gauge runs to 60 psi max.

[StagJonno]

Yes, I've got the same gauge, though with C degrees and a black face.

I understand where Wilf is coming from but I'm happy with the needle running ~half way - I consider it an indicator rather than an instrument

[Phil S]

I have similar but stupidly went for the one with C.N.H with a red zone, didn't realise they were available with degrees on at the time

[KOY 23]

Yes, I've got the same gauge, though with C degrees and a black face.

I understand where Wilf is coming from but I'm happy with the needle running ~half way - I consider it an indicator rather than an instrument

I agree with Jonno. Vertical needles was standard practice on racing cars, gauges were aligned so that normal condition was vertical., Not necessary to waste time reading values as a quick glance showed vertical needles, denoting all was well.

[JOHNS]

Normally in process engineering you choose a pressure gauge to operate within 25%-75% of full scale deflection.

[mole42]

I am thinking about replacing my temperature gauge with a combined oil pressure/water temp. gauge from Holdens. Anyone have any experience?

GAUGE.jpg

Mine came out of an MG but it transplanted well to the Triumph. Oil pressure needle usually points straight up, the temperature needle usually points straight down, an easy one-glance check that all is well.

[Niss]

I like this one from Mocal which matches my other dials. My newly reconditioned engine runs at 60 but reaches 80 on start up.

[JOHNS]

Yes, I've got the same gauge, though with C degrees and a black face.

I understand where Wilf is coming from but I'm happy with the needle running ~half way - I consider it an indicator rather than an instrument

I received my new gauge and very impressed. However where on the engine did you fit the capillary bulb. Obviously I have an oil pressure connection at the oil pump and a temperature connection at the heads. Did you leave them to supply the warning light cluster.

[wilf]

My capillary bulb fits into (with an adaptor) the LH head rear water plate, where the old temp gauge sender went. I taped up the leads to the old electrical gauge behind the dash. The +ve feed to the old temperature sender emanates (via the old gauge) from the voltage stabiliser mounted on the back of the speedo, so no live wires left hanging around the engine bay.

I used a T piece in the oil transfer housing to allow the oil pressure warning light switch to remain operative. You wlil need to remove that the get everything lined up (no space to tighten things once it is in place) - use new O rings. (held mine in place for fitting with a few tiny dabs of PU adhesive)

[JOHNS]

My capillary bulb fits into (with an adaptor) the LH head rear water plate, where the old temp gauge sender went. I taped up the leads to the old electrical gauge behind the dash. The +ve feed to the old temperature sender emanates (via the old gauge) from the voltage stabiliser mounted on the back of the speedo, so no live wires left hanging around the engine bay.

I used a T piece in the oil transfer housing to allow the oil pressure warning light switch to remain operative. You wlil need to remove that the get everything lined up (no space to tighten things once it is in place) - use new O rings. (held mine in place for fitting with a few tiny dabs of PU adhesive)

Thanks that's good. The reason I posted this is because I wanted to do any work before I re-installed the engine. Plenty of room just now.