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    Dashboard veneer adhesive.

    Could anyone recommend a good adhesive to use when re-veneering the wood on the dashboard, please.
    1978 mk2 with Rover 4.2 V8 fuel injected, Datsun half shafts, rear disc brakes, Image 15" wheels.

    #2
    Been researching this extensively in the woodworking forums as I am doing new wood. Only one answer: plastic resin glue. Same stuff plywood is made from. PVA ( white/yellow) will creep and is heat sensitive, CA will bleed and crack too easy. Epoxies tend to bleed. Contact creeps and is thermal sensitive. I bought some DAP, but other brands are highly recommended. Power mixed with water. Again, go to the woodworking forums. Some even suggest hide glue is second best and can be done with a hammer, not clamping. I think it too brittle and too weak.

    But do be careful as there is a lot of very bad advice out there. Several said PVA and they even make a special thicker version to not bleed, but until I tested it, I did not know how weak it gets at barely room temperature. Indoor furniture use only!

    So my next step is to buy a vacuum bag system. Going to make "plugs" so the edges don't roll and chip on the pre-cut pieces. ( done properly, you veneer oversize and then trim) Unfortunately, it looks like a lot of folks do stuff that looks good when done, but does not hold up. Nice furniture work, but a car is not sitting in your living room.

    Top coat is a second problem. I am leaning to 2K clearecoat, but as I understand it, the new water based clearcoat is more flexible and woudl resist cracking better. Unlike the cheap paint TR used, the entire piece should be sealed including edges of cutouts which may mean slightly enlarging the holes.

    If I was not moving things and using different switches, I woudl buy the pre-made set. $800 is actually a good deal.

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      #3
      I was told by a veneerist or Marquetry that it best to put the veneers on wet/damp as this allows the wood to flex and stretch without fracturing. I found that you do get far better results. When i do a dark veneer onto a light (wood or plastic) base I stain it darker so any holes or cracks don't show through. One of the few glues that work with damp or wet stuff was "Gorilla Glue" then soon as it all in place apply lots of constant, even pressure until everything is dry and the glue has set.

      Then trim the new dash set and as mentioned above remember to allow extra space for the varnish or lacquer. I have used 2k and it gives very good really high gloss finish that remains flexible. So it wont crack but will mark fairly easily but you can add more hardener to the mix if thats what you require. The last few ive done i have used a good quality high gloss yacht varnish, thinned it down and sprayed it on. Just check it allows more than one coat as one i used mentioned it was a one coat but to that gloss finish I put several on only for it to all peel off. I had to start gain.

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        #4
        Damp/dry is an age old debate for sure. Some suggest the shrinking as it dries is a problem. Size probably matters. I thought about gorilla glue but with it's expansion and gas generation, I would be very concerned with bleed through. I do intend to give it a try on a test board. Sets in seconds. ( especially if the wood is damp) Falls in with the same debates on flattening or just clamping. Of course, thickness of the veneer and species varies. 1/32 veneer would be more resistant to bleed than 1/42. 1/16 probably immune unless a burl. So the most correct answer is "it depends" Test. I believe, Bentley used damp veneer and hot steam press to do theirs. Forcing into the radius is not easy. They may use microwave setting glue. Only some I could figure out from videos.

        Spar varnish is designed to be very tolerant in a thin coat for... spars. Soft finish and needs replacing every few years, but was by far the best we had for wooden boats for many years as the alternatives were tar, shellac, or lacquer. Tar actually holds up the best.

        Again, cars are a horribly hostile environment so what most expert cabinet makers know does not necessary apply. Temps from below zero to 140F, humidity from zero to 100%, sunlight.

        For the small console pieces, I got one of those inflatable bags. I figure much more even clamping than boards and clamps. Limited size though. Vacuum is still the right way to go. One of those skate board kits is big enough for the cluster and glove box, so only about $100. A "real" bag setup is more like $500 and most are sold out right now.

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          #5
          I did a spitfire dash using veneer and iron on sheet with good results. It was still in place and looking good when the car was sold 10 years later.

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            #6
            My dash had been poorly veneered before I got the car. I sanded it all off, used a burr walnut veneer, three consecutive leaves, bought for about £25 off ebay, clamped it all down using various bits of thin ply and paper. I used a bottled animal glue. Burr veneer bleeds through!

            Then carefully cut all the holes once set and completely dry with a set of craft knives, then sanded flat.

            I used Rustins Plastic Coat, (Excellent stuff - doesn't discolour or turn yellow over time. Lots of coats, lightly flattening every 5 or 6 thin coats. Finally allowed a couple of weeks to fully cure then flatted, finishing with 2000 grade paper, then burnished to a high gloss shiny glass like finish.

            That was probably 13 or 14 years ago. The finish has sunk back a bit. It still looks fantastic, just not perfectly smooth or mirror like. Nothing has lifted, cracked or suffered any damage due to damp. I keep meaning to take it all out, flat it off then re-finish with a few more coats but it's down the list of priorities and I haven't got around to it yet.

            Is it as good as a Chapman and Cliff job - no, but the cost only around £50 in total.
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            This gallery has 3 photos.

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              #7
              Plus your time!

              Rustins is new to me. Just read their WEB. Might get some and give it a test. Seems to be a two party poly. So you managed to clamp with thin ply. Hmmm. Might consider, though I have to make a new cluster panel anyway. Made a female form out of MDF. Next is to sand one side off some 3-ply from the big box store and lay up three layers for a good 10mm blank. To move my gauges over, I am making a new indicator cluster in an old voltmeter case and moving the clock to the shallow end of the glove box. That way, the gauges will be centered in front of me and visible without the steering wheel in the way. Redoing console for standard DIN radio and I have different window switches. So three of 6 pieces all new.

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                #8
                Rustins. UK mainland only. Does not seem to be available here.

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                  #9
                  When i did the Stag dash i used Gorilla glue and car lacquer in a spray can, i did wet the veneer my Burr came warped , when i do the Dolomite dash im going to try the iron on veener see what thats like

                  Dave

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Well, best of luck with it. Iron on is not very rigid and will creep, but it may not be a problem. Iron on was the second most "don't do it" from the cabinet makers around here. ( PVA #1) Nifty as North Carolina is a heaven for woodworking. Probably as it used to be the main industry. Also fortunate, it is the micro-brew capital of the world. 67 in Asheville alone. Not many Triumphs though. Good active MG club.

                    Unless paper backed, veneer is always warped. You can iron it flat but breathe on it and it warps. If you want it flat, you have to re-saw it yourself. 1/8 inch is pretty stable but does not bend very well. And even that, leave it sit wrong and it might be a canoe. I can't imagine how many coats of rattle can it takes to build up a base you could sand flat and buff. 30, 40?

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                      #11
                      + 1 for clear gorilla glue, Derek

                      Comment


                        #12
                        FWIW 5 winters ago I re-veneered a spare dash set using iron-on American Black Walnut veneer. Spent ages on it, following the instructions to the letter. Achieved a really good finish (photos are on here somewhere) and was delighted with the results. However, 5 Summers later and several of the edges are lifting. I’ve come to the conclusion that leaving the car outside in hot sunshine is what has done the damage.

                        My original set is in excellent condition, other than the gear-lever surround and coin tray which had been re-varnished poorly by a previous owner. If I can find replacements for these in excellent condition, I’ll refit the original. Last year I acquired a NOS set of wood, but it was for a Mk1. Typical!
                        Dave
                        1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by tvrgeek View Post
                          Plus your time!
                          I bought the Stag as an "abandoned project", in quite a lot of pieces as a hobby to do as much as possible myself for the joy of it, so my time was not an issue.

                          The veneer did come buckled. I sprayed it with a mixture of glycerine and water to soften it then placed it between two flat boards with paper to soak ip the moisture, changing it every day as the veneer dried. Once dry it was flat but had to be cut and used straight away as it will buckle again if allowed to. One issue with burr is that it is full of imperfections (holes) that the glue bleeds through so you have to use something of a similar colour or clear. The Rustins filled the rest. Rustins is a two pack product and very good stuff. I re-finished our kitchen table about 5 years ago, flatting to a smooth finish and it still looks as good when I had just done it.

                          Thin ply and a lot of clamps worked really well, no doubt vacuum bags would be better. For sanding the curved clock panel I found an old glove box lid wrapped in the wet or dry perfect for the job.

                          Car and dash has spent plenty of time in the sun and none of the veneer has shown any signs of lifting as yet.


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                            #14
                            Clear gorilla. That is an interesting idea Pretty thin though, bleed-through? I am staining, so that will need to be tested. I have not found an equivalent to Rustins yet. If it is a good as described, I can think of several things to use it for.

                            As all the pieced are only simple ( one dimensional) curves, clamps may work. Finishing a table for my sister, so not making any dust this week. Spit coat went on this morning. Back to re-wiring.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by tvrgeek View Post
                              Clear gorilla. That is an interesting idea Pretty thin though, bleed-through? I am staining, so that will need to be tested. I have not found an equivalent to Rustins yet. If it is a good as described, I can think of several things to use it for.

                              As all the pieced are only simple ( one dimensional) curves, clamps may work. Finishing a table for my sister, so not making any dust this week. Spit coat went on this morning. Back to re-wiring.
                              when i did mine the Gorilla glue did blead through , but what i did was place a peace of plastic between the dash and the wood i used to press against

                              dave

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