After 40 years my alternator has given up.

[Robin Searle]

I purchased this alternator three years ago for the time when my original would finally give up, well that date has come so ready to replace it with this one. I have not removed the one that is presently on my 73 Mk2 Fed Stag, so I wonder if these photos of my new one are a copy of the one I am about to remove.?

Are there any videos around showing the replacement of the alternator?

[Phil S]

should be a straight change over, the only difference could be the pull diameter

[tvrgeek]

Manual has you drop the sway bar ( and in my case, the trans cooler). The install from the bottom. I determined fifyou move the PS pump out of the way, and move the battery ground strap, it can be done from the top. I put in a CS 130 as I detest Lucas alternators.

[KOY 23]

I put in a CS 130 as I detest Lucas alternators.

Really, I would never have guessed

[Robin Searle]

How to remove your alternator from a Fed Mk2 73 Stag.that is fitted with bothy a transmission and engine cooler.

First disconnect both battery terminals.
I have a 73 Mk 2 Fed Stag equipped with both an oil and a transmission cooler, so trust me, you CANNOT remove your alternator from the bottom of the car, it is impossible. Why you may ask, well slide under the vehicle and look up, you will see the transmission fluid radiator running from one side to the other. Then you will notice the coolant pipe from the top running down to the bottom of your radiator.
I decided that the ROM book is WRONG, unbolting your anti-roll bar and swinging it down does nothing.if you have an automatic Stag.
1. First, remove the ENTIRE power steering pump by undoing all three bolts, but suck out the steering fluid first and tape over the ends when you remove the two pipe connections. If you do this, then you will have ample room to work in.
2. Drain your radiator and save the fluid, especially if, like me, you are using Evans Waterless Coolant.
3. Remove the steel coolant pipe going from the top down to the bottom of your radiator.
4. Undo and remove the nut and bolt holding the alternator at the bottom right to the bracket, then with two wrenches undo the long top bolt and slide the bolt out.
5. Slip off the alternator belt, then twisting the alternator unclip the plug from the back of the alternator.
6. Twist the unit around and grab it by the pulley, then twisting the alternator around, lift the alternator out, with a couple of small twists it will clear all obstacles.
Refitting is the reverse of all removal procedures.
Robin.

[djtaylor]

I purchased this alternator three years ago for the time when my original would finally give up, well that date has come so ready to replace it with this one. I have not removed the one that is presently on my 73 Mk2 Fed Stag, so I wonder if these photos of my new one are a copy of the one I am about to remove.?

Are there any videos around showing the replacement of the alternator?

Out of interest, what died? There's really very little to go wrong, two bearings being the only moving parts if you ignore the springs of the brushes.

Usually it's worn brushes and slip ring, rectifier pack or voltage regulator.

My neighbors wondered why I spent time striping down a 25 year old alternator on a Volvo. Because it only cost me a voltage regulator, slip ring and brushes for £30 instead of the ridiculous price for cheap import pattern stuff.

That said, last time I changed diodes and voltage regulator on one of those Lucas alternators was some time back in the 1980's

[Robin Searle]

DSCF4474.JPG In my case, the alternator was only charging the battery with 10 amps, so it was recommended that I replace it. Yes, I could have had it rebuilt but as I already had a brand new hi-output one easier to go that route.
I was working on my own when reinstalling the new alternator and trying to lift and line up the alternator proved a challenge **%##, so put my 80-year-old thinking cap on decided string/ rope would not be stable enough, I tore off a 3-foot length of duct tape, folded into two, sticky to sticky, slid it down either side of the alternator, added a short length of duct tape to join up both ends, holding the tape hoist in my left hand lifted up the alternator, positioned it to line up exactly and using my right hand insert the long bolt, QED as they used to say. My garage has been at 35C for a few days hot and sticky, so waited until today when only 17C to finish the job, and the more important job of testing all is well.I did at least refill all of the fluids that I removed and no leaks were spotted!!.

[Robin Searle]

Just following up with my replacement Stag alternator that I purchased brand new on eBay two years ago as a spare when need, as I have already posted, have now fitted it to my Stag. Took my Stag out for a test run and noticed within minutes that the voltmeter was up into the red zone, changed my driving plan and headed down to a friend who runs Harris Auto Electrical here in Ontario Canada. Les spotted what I had seen and guessed correctly that the new alternator was putting out too many volts. On metering the output it measured 17volts, he gave me two options AFTER I had removed the new alternator &*^% A have him fit a "module" that would reduce the output to 12V, or rebuild my old one which when tested was in fairly good condition, just need to update a couple of parts

I have been in touch with the eBay seller to see what he has to say, as I cannot lay my hands on the receipt. So just a word of warning of the trials and tribulations of eBay purchases.

Robin

[LAMBRETTLAD]

40 YEARS !!! Needs a proper send off and a salute

[sujitroy]

Not Stag related, but I had a alternator replaced on my minivan. At night the head lights would flicker rapidly. I took it back to the mechanic and he said it was pumping out too much voltage. He changed it.
I did pull apart a Mk1 alternator. there is not much in it other than a couple of bearings and the bushes at the back as mentioned above.
Sujit

[Phil S]

From the pictures it looks like it could be the wrong hand, if so remove the 3 long bolts that join the 2 half's together rotate till the opposing mounting hole is in line, refit the 3 bolts drill out the threaded hole and mount, but you now need a nut and bolt on the adjuster

[Robin Searle]

Further update on my Stag alternator replacement, pt 2. I had the eBay brand new alternator tested whilst in the car and was producing 17+ volts, no wonder the voltmeter was kicked right over in the red zone. I had my old original alternator with me so elected to have that rebuilt, then when it was ready, to exchange it over for the eBay special supplied by Rareelectrical out of Atlanta. The response I got back was "you should have tested it when you received it", so had to leave it with Les the rebuilder for him to fit a rectifier to reduce the power output to 12 volts.

The good news is that as I am experienced now in alternator removal, originally it took me a good 8 hours to do the exchange, learning as I went along, this time to remove the bum one and replace it with the rebuilt original, from start to finish 4 hours, and my duct tape trick worked again lifting the alternator with my left hand, positioning it, then threaded the long bolt in with my right hand.

Fired up the engine and it showed 13 volts.

Robin

[Robin Searle]

Just added a photo of my duct tape alternator lift to my July 13 posting, works 100% both lifting and positioning.

Read the posting from Phil S July 14th and not sure what he is referring to?? "From the pictures, it looks like it could be the wrong hand, if so remove the 3 long bolts that join the 2 half's together rotate till the opposing mounting hole is in line, refit the 3 bolts drill out the threaded hole and mount, but you now need a nut and bolt on the adjuster"

Once the alternator is slid in, it needs to be lifted into position and positioned to straddle the bracket on the engine, once that is done the long bolt is easily slid into position and washer and nut added ,then tightened.

Robin

[jbuckl]

Heard on here once that an alternator was replaced by a one armed mechanic in France in very little time.. Mind you he’d had good training, working on french engines /cars.
I had bother with 2 bad alternators from robsport . Paid for 2, didn’t get one that worked. Or any refund. To be fair, more recent dealings were better with robsport.
Took the original to a local auto electrician who offered a repair for £65 or a new import for £ 55. He advised the import, which has been fine for some time now.

[DJT]

I exchanged my 40-year-old Lucas alternator for a new one from QX Vectron at my local motor factors in 2014. Just over a year later it packed in. The motor factors got me a replacement QH alternator. This lasted less than 12 months. I bought a new rectifier and regulator kit and fitted them to the QH unit - about an hour with basic tools and a soldering iron. This has been fine now for 4 years. Worth considering.