Some months ago I made a simple head removal tool using two bracket made frompieces of heavy angle iron drilled out to bolt onto the inlet manifold position (this idea came from a kind forum member who I think lives in the USA?). Following this I used them to remove a cylinder head ( 2 studs snapped)without too much fuss. I used a scissor jack to push the head off, although I was aware the jack was on it's limit.
I have just used them again, but this time things did not run so smoothly (three head studs had snapped). The scissor jack was clearly not having any effect so I resorted to a hydraulic jack. This jack piston was taken from an old, cheap 2 ton hydraulic jack which I dismantled.
One problem was that the release valve was at one end, and could not be accessed once in position, so I had to make up an adapter plate to reposition the piston assembly and clear the valve.
My first attempt at jacking had no effect on the head. The jack was selflimiting the pressure, presumably as I had axceeded the maximum limit of a hydraulic safety valve. I made up an additional jack using some tubing and threaded studding, and used this to put on additional pressure. After a couple to tries, I noticed a slight movement of the head. By alternating between the two jacks I just managed to get the head to release, and have now got enough clearance to cut off the studs.
To make this tool more effective I will obviously have to invest in some better jacking system, but I am convinced it is the best way to go for a head tool. I have seen the other type which uses jack bolts to push onto the broken studs, but I believe this is more complicated and expensive, and requiresthe exhaust manifold to be removed, unlike this tool.
I have just used them again, but this time things did not run so smoothly (three head studs had snapped). The scissor jack was clearly not having any effect so I resorted to a hydraulic jack. This jack piston was taken from an old, cheap 2 ton hydraulic jack which I dismantled.
One problem was that the release valve was at one end, and could not be accessed once in position, so I had to make up an adapter plate to reposition the piston assembly and clear the valve.
My first attempt at jacking had no effect on the head. The jack was selflimiting the pressure, presumably as I had axceeded the maximum limit of a hydraulic safety valve. I made up an additional jack using some tubing and threaded studding, and used this to put on additional pressure. After a couple to tries, I noticed a slight movement of the head. By alternating between the two jacks I just managed to get the head to release, and have now got enough clearance to cut off the studs.
To make this tool more effective I will obviously have to invest in some better jacking system, but I am convinced it is the best way to go for a head tool. I have seen the other type which uses jack bolts to push onto the broken studs, but I believe this is more complicated and expensive, and requiresthe exhaust manifold to be removed, unlike this tool.
I like that.
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