Front Suspension Top Mount

[Stagless Steve]

Hi all,
In an effort to track down the rattle from the front OS of my Stag I have removed the suspension strut. The top mount swivels freely but there is a small amount of side to side movement. Is that normal?
Also, any advice on how to remove the castellated nut at the top? Every time I try turning it the damper rod just turns with it!
Thanks
Steve

[sujitroy]

after compressing spring I was able to do it with an impact wrench. I couldn't find a flat on the shaft to hold. in my case the shock was loose. felt like a worn wheel bearing rubble

[RNF]

Second the impact wrench. If you can get an electric or cordless impact wrench it will make quick work of the job.

[Phil S]

if not use a piece of copper pipe, split it and wrap it around the top of the pushrod as this is unlikely to go into the shocker seal and grop with a pair of mole type grips, this should hold it tight enough to loosen the nut without any damage

[jbuckl]

Original dampers had flats afaiaa.

[sujitroy]

I bought my first air powered impact wrench 15 years after work and owing a Stag. It was on sale for 25$. I have a compressor. I'd wished, looking back, I got his when I first bought the Stag. They are a life saver. Recently, I bought a battery operated drill kit and it came with am impact wrench. The air powered one is in a box in the shed. Use it on the power steering pump pulley bolt, alternator bolt you just have to hold the pulley in your hand. Makes removing that nut on the top of the shock 100 time easier.
Sujit

[flying farmer]

The rattle from the front strut if often end to end movement rather than sideways. There needs to be the smallest amount of free play possible on the bush in the middle of the top mount, too tight and the steering will bind, too loose gives an incessant rattle.

Neil

[Stagless Steve]

I bought my first air powered impact wrench 15 years after work and owing a Stag. It was on sale for 25$. I have a compressor. I'd wished, looking back, I got his when I first bought the Stag. They are a life saver. Recently, I bought a battery operated drill kit and it came with am impact wrench. The air powered one is in a box in the shed. Use it on the power steering pump pulley bolt, alternator bolt you just have to hold the pulley in your hand. Makes removing that nut on the top of the shock 100 time easier.
Sujit

Thanks sujitroy. So are you saying that you now use the battery drill for all those applications in place of the air powered one?

[Stagless Steve]

The rattle from the front strut if often end to end movement rather than sideways. There needs to be the smallest amount of free play possible on the bush in the middle of the top mount, too tight and the steering will bind, too loose gives an incessant rattle.

Neil

Thanks Neil. Before I removed the strut I tightened the top nut up to the correct torque, and every other nut and bolt I could get at, and it made no difference unfortunately.
Steve

[KOY 23]

Thanks Neil. Before I removed the strut I tightened the top nut up to the correct torque, and every other nut and bolt I could get at, and it made no difference unfortunately.
Steve

If you have play or binding, it’s due to relative lengths of the inner and outer sleeves, not how tight the nut is. Ideally the inner should be a few thou longer to give minimal play as Neil says. I bought some shim washers to get it right, if it’s too loose you could grind down the inner bush.

[flying farmer]

If you have play or binding, it’s due to relative lengths of the inner and outer sleeves, not how tight the nut is. Ideally the inner should be a few thou longer to give minimal play as Neil says. I bought some shim washers to get it right, if it’s too loose you could grind down the inner bush.

As KOY says.

If the top mounts have been replaced with repro parts they virtually never fit properly without fettling. Then having done all that they fall apart after a couple of years.....

Neil

[Stagless Steve]

If you have play or binding, it’s due to relative lengths of the inner and outer sleeves, not how tight the nut is. Ideally the inner should be a few thou longer to give minimal play as Neil says. I bought some shim washers to get it right, if it’s too loose you could grind down the inner bush.

Is there any way of knowing if the new sleeves are OK before fitting, or is it a case of trial and error?
Steve

[Lingen]

Steve.
You could fit the top washer, spring cup, and mount to the strut without the spring, and make any necessary adjustments before final assembly.
Mike.

[jbuckl]

Don’t rely on the available parts. Use measuring to check. Make your own adjustments.

[Stagless Steve]

Sorry if I'm being a bit dim here but how would I make adjustments? Would that be by adding shims or filling a sleeve down? Also, how do I know if the dimensions are correct? I don't see any dimension data in the ROM.
Thanks for all your advice guys.