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    Choke cable repair

    Been looking at threads on replacing the cables in the choke. it seems the two wires are soldered in the pull handle part. Can I get a copper plumbing blow torch on the pull part to heat up the solder or will the knob melt?
    Sujit

    #2
    No. You’ need to drill the old cables out... they are crimped in originally.

    Comment


      #3
      Like he says. In any case, I'd recommend that you pull your knob off.
      The answer isn't 42, it's 1/137

      Comment


        #4
        I drilled out the two crimping dimples, fitted new choke cable (cable bought online from a wire cable seller), forced grubscrews into the drilled out dimple holes to clamp the cable, then filled up the void with solder (which doesn't actually adhere to the wire strands, but prevents them from working loose).

        Choke cable routing and design is awful - I'd like to rig up a small solenoid in the engine bay and turn the choke pull into a switch.

        Don't forget to press the accelerator before pulling the choke out. I did, and paid the price.

        IMG_2574.JPGIMG_2575.JPG
        The answer isn't 42, it's 1/137

        Comment


          #5
          IMG_2575 mod.JPG
          The answer isn't 42, it's 1/137

          Comment


            #6
            Had to take my choke cables out when re-doing the dash. Tried various ways to get knob off without success. Eventually, disconnected at carbs and taped strong thin string to each cable then gently pulled through into car. Only took a few minutes. Leave string in place then to reinstall, retape the cable to string and gently pull back through. It teased through pretty easily. As a tip, use two pieces of string on each in case one snags. Probably 5 minutes to get out and 10 back in. I had wasted time putting off doing this and looking for easy ways! Fiddliest bit was putting the switch back on. That probably took 20 mins to get right.
            Tony
            Last edited by AJLC; 11 November 2020, 09:47.

            Comment


              #7
              My choke cable is solid, not stranded. Is that normal?

              Terry
              Terry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware

              www.terryhunt.co.uk

              Comment


                #8
                braided is normal, but with supply shortages over the years may be an odd batch about.
                in the past I have purchased cable from the likes of halfords, cycle brake or gear change cable, drill out the old, force the new in and wedge with a couple of steel dress makers pins then till with araldite, this can be heated should it need to be replaced again

                Comment


                  #9
                  Silver solder works well on dissimilar metals. I used it to secure my cables. Didn’t need the string idea, my inners slid through the purées no problem.
                  Paul - 3 projects, 1 breaker - garage built and housing 2 white Stags. One runs, one doesn't

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Thanks very everyone. I will take a look this this weekend. I'm hoping I can get to the nut to remove it from the radio aperture without removing the center console.
                    Sujit

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Just an update. I got the coke cable out without removing the console, however, the console has to come out on reinstalling as there is no way to attached the choke light switch back on. I drilled out the dimples and cleaned out the hole. I'm wondering if I can use welding wire instead of cycle brake wire. With regard to cycle brake cable wire isn't one end soldered with something like lead that goes in the brake handle?
                      I will check if have some small enough grub screws (set screws as they say in USA).
                      Sujit

                      Comment


                        #12
                        You don’t need to take the console off to refit the choke mechanism. Attach the light switch then refit. Not sure what gauge of welding wire you use but even 0.8mm is too thin and will rust eventually, it will then break. Cycle brake cable doesn’t have a nipple (which is what I think you meant). Don’t make it more difficult than it needs to be
                        Paul - 3 projects, 1 breaker - garage built and housing 2 white Stags. One runs, one doesn't

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Some of the recent cable replacements have a molded on knob (: can make refitting more tricky (:
                          Have repaired a few cables in the last few months for members.... have found 4 different types of cable / attachment types.
                          Last edited by jbuckl; 14 November 2020, 00:39.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Jut an update. I bought some cycle brake wires off Amazon. I drilled out the holes a bit. Fed two non-nipple ends in and glued with an epoxy. I cleaned off the excess glue and reassembled. Seems OK and only time will tell. The choke cables I have have molded on knobs.
                            Sujit

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Goldstar View Post
                              Silver solder works well on dissimilar metals. I used it to secure my cables. Didn’t need the string idea, my inners slid through the purées no problem.
                              Use bakers solder flux for soldering cables into shaft, works properly. sweats the cables well.

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