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    Clutch slave cylinder questions

    I bought locally here in USA part no. UKC8677 a clutch slave cylinder. This came from a British parts supplier. I noticed that this one one only have one side machined and this if I'm not mistaken this is not the side I need to anchor to the engine plate. Can someone please confirm? if this is the case, the part that I need to bolt up to the engine plate appears slightly thicker than the one currently on the car. If I grind off the casting to make the side I need flat, wont the rod be slightly closer to the clutch fork. As usual am I over thinking? In my stash of stuff I do have a longer slave cylinder rod. I do see other UKC8766 which look like this specifically include the Stag in the description.
    Sujit

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    #2
    I think the one I got from Moss had paper info inside which was specifically saying which way to mount it.. but can’t remember if it was ground on the inside. TBH if it did I wouldn’t have worried about it.

    I can’t see it being a problem really it’s self adjusting, that minimal difference should not be anything to worry about.
    Terry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware

    www.terryhunt.co.uk

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      #3
      When I replaced mine afew years ago, it was the same as that - un machined on the side that fits against the adapter plate.

      So, i held it from the other side in the lathe & machined it flat myself, only needed a couple of mm to make it flat.

      Neil.

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        #4
        Thanks Neil. bit of a pain that not all UKC876 are the same so buyer beware. I'll grind off the casting marks. I'll let the shop know of this problem.

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          #5
          If it sits flat on the adaptor plate without any filing I wouldn't bother touching it. If there is a gap between the flanges and the adaptor plate because it is touching around the cylinder then I would grind it down to prvent bending.

          The clutch is self adjusting, so provided there is some end float on the rod when it is installed I wouldn't bother about the extra thickness.

          Neil
          Neil
          TV8, efi, fast road cams and home built manifolds. 246bhp 220lbft torque

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            #6
            there is a casting line right down the middle. preventi g it to sit flat. At the least that needs to come off. thx.

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              #7
              While waiting for my clutch master cylinder being resleeved I have time to ponder on this topic. If the bore on the clutch master cylinder can travel up to 1.5" (There is a sleeve on the master cylinder rod, which limits the amount of travel ) and the bore on the slave cylinder is the same diameter, then the piston in the slave cylinder can move up to 1.5" as well. So in theory you can use a longer push rod in the slave cylinder as long as the piston doesn't bottom out and there is sufficient play / end float in the connections. The spring in the slave cylinder is providing enough force on the piston to be in contact with the push rod. So in theory, you should be able to attach the slave cylinder on the other side of the adapter plate as long as you use a longer rod. (I have a longer rod from somewhere)
              It's all making sense now and as Neil mentions its self adjusting. So for those you you driving manuals how far do I need to push the clutch pedal down so I can engage a gear without the gears grinding? With my system after first rebuild, I had to press the pedal all the way to the floor. (I have a Borg and Beck clutch and plate if that makes any difference)
              Sujit
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                #8
                A lot depends on how well you have bled the system. Since the bleed screw is on the side of most slave cylinders rather than the top, a lot of air can be trapped.

                The only way I have found to reliably bleed the slave cylinder is to do it before the cylinder is bolted in place, and with the nipple rotated to the top. It also helps if the piston is pushed in as far as possible.

                When the cylinder has been bled, slack the pipe just enough to rotate the cylinder to its correct position. It won't draw air in as it is being gravity fed.

                If you are still having problems with the pedal hitting the floor, check the relative heights of the brake and clutch pedal. I had this problem on my Stag engined Estate, the only solution was to cut the master cylinder push rod and re-weld it a few mm longer to give a longer effective stroke.

                Neil
                Neil
                TV8, efi, fast road cams and home built manifolds. 246bhp 220lbft torque

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