Rear Drive Shafts Torque Settings

[JeffW]

Hi

Can anyone point me to the correct torque settings for the bolts and 3/8" UNF Nyloc nuts that hold the inner flange to the outer drive shaft flange (picture attached)? It seems Rimmers uses different terminology than the ROM and I can't tell which is which.

I also have no idea how I would get a torque wrench on the bolt, given its location. Of course I may have just answered my own question...

Thanks
Jeff

[marshman]

According to the R.O.M.

Inner driving flange to rear hub and axle shaft assembly 3/8" U.N.F. 26 to 34 ft lbs

Easiest way would be to remove the complete drive shaft assembly, torque up and then refit. I have a "special" socket tool, a bit like a short extension with the correct sized socket on the end for accesing nuts and bolts on U.J.'s

Similar to these:

https://www.lrsoffroadparts.co.uk/propshaft-nut-fastener-tool-3-8-square-drive.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAjKqABhDLARIsABbJrGl4_Xs0LZCYzuvypAKMl8VWpoJzGaKCZ8izlZQhhWFJKzraEktrzuEaAgBGEALw_wcB

Roger

[flying farmer]

I use a pair of 9/16 ring spanners because you can't get them tight enough with open end spanners. Virtually no chance of over tightening them given the length of a 9/16 spanner unless they are crap quality replacement bolts.
My first Stag had been fitted with half nuts on the drive shaft flanges, by the previous owner, which had worked loose as it wasn't possible to tighten them enough, they only had about 5 or 6 threads before the nyloc
Neil

[mole42]

I use a pair of 9/16 ring spanners because you can't get them tight enough with open end spanners. Virtually no chance of over tightening them given the length of a 9/16 spanner unless they are crap quality replacement bolts.

Agreed, I’ve done the job that way for years on Stags and on the 2000/2500 saloons. Never had a problem even on the rally cars.

[JeffW]

Thanks Roger, Neil & Richard - much appreciated. Mine on the nearside were literally finger loose on my newly acquired Mk1. Glad I didn't take it for a spin.

Jeff