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    Differential questions

    I'm going through my spare diffs. The one on my parts has many broken teeth on the crown. I'm wondering how that could have happened: Maybe a ball fell out of a bearing and caused havoc. The PO had drained the diff. Fortunately, I was able to remove the side flanges with a 12 ton press. Out of 6 flanges I was able separate 4.
    With the diff I have on my bench, I'm plan to swap the pinion housing with one I strengthened. I bit the bullet and bought an SKF bearing. However, if the existing bearing is a good brand and is healthily, I will consider reusing it.
    I'm in two minds whether to add a drain plug. The original size fill plug seems too big to add. An alternative is to maybe drill and tap a small hole and use a copper washer on the end of a bolt to seal. But the bottom does seem flat. Any recommendation welcome.
    Also the last time I changed the seal on the side flanges, the diff leaked between mounting plate and diff. When reinstalling should smear the face with Hymolar or something similar? I'm planning to replace the rear cover gasket. While it is off, is there tail-tail signs I should look for? So far there doesn't seem to be too much play in the diff, With the diff cover off, should I see some visible wear patterns where the pinion is meshed with the crown?
    The Diff is marked with the following LD6978. Can anyone tell me the approx. year of this diff?
    I posted a posted a separate question about the main pinion diff seal as it wasn't answered in another post.
    Thanks in advance. Sujit
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    #2
    Don't drill a small hole for a drain, it will take an age. Remove the rear cover and just ahead of it on the main case there is a flat to take a 3/8 BSP Allen socket taper plug. Don't use a plug with an external head as it may get caught. With the cover off you can clean out any swarf the will remain after drilling and tapping.
    Cheers Ian A

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by stag8manod View Post
      Don't drill a small hole for a drain, it will take an age. Remove the rear cover and just ahead of it on the main case there is a flat to take a 3/8 BSP Allen socket taper plug. Don't use a plug with an external head as it may get caught. With the cover off you can clean out any swarf the will remain after drilling and tapping.
      Cheers Ian A
      I did see that, but wondering if it will strip over time with a tapered plug. Is there enough meat on it?
      Sujit

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        #4
        No,never been a problem or will be. That is how I have done my diffs (3.45 & 3.7). Just use thread tape or a sealant on the plug and don't over tighten.
        Cheers Ian A

        Comment


          #5
          I have drilled both my Sprint and Stag with a Diff drain plug,its magnetic and i think it was 12mm thread,i drilled the case,didnt think there was enough thickness in the back plate to drill it there,when i drilled it i had the back plate as i was drilling

          Dave

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            #6
            Use sealant on the side plates or they will leak.
            You shouldn't see any wear marks on the crown wheel or pinion, maybe a hint of polishing in the middle of the teeth if all is good.

            Most of the wear in a good diff occurs to the bronze thrust washers under the planet gears of the diff. This is usually the reason there is a fair amount of backlash between the input and output flanges rather than between the crownwheel and pinion. These are cheap and relatively easy to fit.
            I have replaced them at least twice on the diff on my TR, but that has accumulated about 250,000 miles

            Neil
            Neil
            TV8, efi, fast road cams and home built manifolds. 246bhp 220lbft torque

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              #7
              Dorrman in US has this plug

              which could make my life easier. But have to figure out if it will clear the crown as mentioned by Ian. Folks on Amazon have done away with the supplied rings and use washers and loctite.

              Comment


                #8
                Definitely sounds like an alternative to a tapered hex drive plug:

                - What a joke. Drain plug? More like a “drip plug”

                - Does it give you a drain plug? Yeah.. does it drip non stop and gradually get worse as you drive and the fluid heats up and thins out? Yup.

                - This plug kit is very poorly machined where the fit feels so loose that I'd believe it will strip out when tightening. It wobbles after its threaded together indicating that its not machined correctly.
                The answer isn't 42, it's 1/137

                Comment


                  #9
                  The dorman item appears to be for a sheet steel sump / cover, not for a casting. It’s also out of stock.

                  Comment

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