Brake Servo Service Advice.

[Welsh_Stag]

Morning All.

I'm currently stripping and refurbishing bits off my 76 Stag that has been sat since 1989.

After going through the usual service on the engine, PAS Pump etc, i'm now looking at the Brake Servo Unit and the Master cylinder and would love any tips and advice please?

Is there a "service" kit for the Brake Servo and Master cylinder similar to PAS Unit? I've seen some "Repair" kits...would these do the job?

The intention is to remove and dismantle all of the above from the car, and address any rust and spray.

I'd like to retain as much of the original components as possible, but if there are any parts that you experienced Stag veterans would recommend replacing, it would be a big help.

If i've missed anything out, apologies.

Many Thanks in Advance!

[trunt]

Both the master and servo have rebuild kits, the master is similar to others, you wont know if its rebuildable until you open it up, even then the preference is to get the original re sleeved. Plenty of info out there.. the servo can be difficult to open without some special tools which can be made. I like to do everything.. but the servo was the one thing I sent off.. in the end the rebuild price was not much more than the kit.

Check out the Buckeye site for how its done.. Its TR6 but very much the same.

https://static1.squarespace.com/stat...rake+Servo.pdf

[brett_smith]

I chose to purchase a ready rebuilt servo from Robsport and a new master cylinder. I feel it was money well spent. New rotors and pads on the front, new cylinders on the rear (all upgrades) a fresh band on rear drums and the brakes are better, in my view, than I could have done. Brakes are just so important.

[trunt]

OK

Good choice, I have done a few so am happy doing them but that servo was not on the cards!

You didn’t mention the callipers, they probably need replacing along with all 4 of the flex hoses. If it’s manual the clutch master as well, the slaves are cheap, not worth messing with. Also remember the PDWA, it has seals inside but is easy to rebuild. After such a long layoff they are all suspect.

Terry

[sujitroy]

from my experience getting a stag running after sitting for 19 years. get new hydraulic. comp. even though u strip down and bores look good. they leak. I don't like spending money but having to do the job twice is a pain. I did rebuild my calipers and so far so good. Don't forget the o rings in the PDWA.

[jbuckl]

Never had a rebuild kit work for long in a master cylinder unless it was resleeved. Fiddly to do compared to others too.
with the servo, repair kits supply seem to be drying up.
use 2” angle iron (2pieces) bolted to each half to separate & reassemble. Straight forward. Might need an assistant for the spring compressing to make it easier.
servo kits were £30 ish, but now much more, if you can find one.

[Hughesy]

I currently have two Stags and in recent months both servo's diaphragms have split. They are not that hard to replace and can be done in about 15 minutes once removed from the car. The hardest bit is to open up the servo and I just used a 1m length of 50mm Angle bar drilled with two holes at one end to match the spacing of the master cylinder attachment studs on the servo unit. The valve units on both my servos was okay and were not replaced. These again are not difficult to replace if needed to be replaced.

[Welsh_Stag]

Thanks everyone for the comprehensive advice...it's golden as always.

I'll be tackling it one piece at a time and you've helped a lot.

Many thanks again.

[mike@thenook]

I chose to purchase a ready rebuilt servo from Robsport and a new master cylinder. I feel it was money well spent. New rotors and pads on the front, new cylinders on the rear (all upgrades) a fresh band on rear drums and the brakes are better, in my view, than I could have done. Brakes are just so important.

Did you out of interest have to adjust the servo rod to make it operate the new master cylinder and was your M C a TKM one?

I only ask as I too bought a recon servo from Rob’s plus a new M C of the TKM variety and having fitted it all together I now find (and on advice from another mate on here) that the reason my pedal goes some way further before biting is because that rod probably needs adjusting to being 0.15 away from the M C plunger. it’s definitely not air as the whole system is well and truly bled and airless.
It’s infuriating that no advice is given to check this dimension (not a complaint against rob’s though as I find them excellent) and even looking in the factory manual there’s no guidance at all.

It just means taking it all apart again adjusting it and bleeding the blo*#y system all over again with yet more fluid - Grrrrrrrr!

Cheers,

Mike




Cheers.

[Phil S]

you shouldn't have to re bleed, unless the pipes don't have enough give in them to ease the master cylinder foward to get at the adjuster, lengthen the adjuster 1/2 turn and try it, repeat if needed

[mike@thenook]

Cheers Phil

I’ll give it a go

[mike@thenook]

I’ll .......

Not entirely sure why the forum app changes various characters and letters into complete nonsense, at least I know what I meant to say!