Fuel delivery at startup

[Lingen]

Babord.
Is the new pump from Robsport as SU one, as original? I see he has various makes for sale. I know that some are designed to keep ticking away continuously after the carburettors have filled. Maybe you have been supplied with one of them?
Mike.

[Babord]

It is not the original SU type pump. It is this one.

Using a clamp on the fuel line after the filter, the pump still fast ticks (initially suggesting it is a pump problem, I think? I am convinced there are no air leaks on input). To test the clamp really was blocking the passage of fuel I started the engine and after a couple of minutes it stopped from fuel starvation. But then, when I turned the ignition back on, the pump only ticked a couple of times and then stopped. Hmm. So then unblocked the pipe and now every time I turn on the ignition it goes back to fast ticking (for at least one minute before I turn ignition off again or start the engine). Hmmm...confused. Robsport say that because it only ticked twice after running out of fuel it is not a problem with the pump and they think it is a carb problem. I don't quite understand that, but I am no expert,. So back at square one!

[NeilR]

Sounds like you have one of those American Pacet style jobs that are designed to rattle continuously.

Can you borrow an SU pump from somebody to prove it either way.

Neil.

[DJT]

Sounds like you have one of those American Pacet style jobs that are designed to rattle continuously.

Can you borrow an SU pump from somebody to prove it either way.

Neil.

Neil,

If you follow the link in post 17 you will see it is an ECCO pump. These have been sold by LD Parts for many years and now sold by Robsport. I've had one in my Stag for 10 years and 34,000 miles. It doesn't behave like the one Babord has. It clicks rapidly for a few moments and then stops until the engine is started.

[Roy_S]

It is not the original SU type pump. It is this one.

Using a clamp on the fuel line after the filter, the pump still fast ticks (initially suggesting it is a pump problem, I think? I am convinced there are no air leaks on input). To test the clamp really was blocking the passage of fuel I started the engine and after a couple of minutes it stopped from fuel starvation. But then, when I turned the ignition back on, the pump only ticked a couple of times and then stopped. Hmm. So then unblocked the pipe and now every time I turn on the ignition it goes back to fast ticking (for at least one minute before I turn ignition off again or start the engine). Hmmm...confused. Robsport say that because it only ticked twice after running out of fuel it is not a problem with the pump and they think it is a carb problem. I don't quite understand that, but I am no expert,. So back at square one!

I know you mentioned about keeping the time down without the engine running to avoid overheating the coil. But you can simply disconnect one side of the coil (ground or 12v) and keep the ignition on for as long as you want to let the pump run while you fault find.

[Babord]

Neil,

If you follow the link in post 17 you will see it is an ECCO pump. These have been sold by LD Parts for many years and now sold by Robsport. I've had one in my Stag for 10 years and 34,000 miles. It doesn't behave like the one Babord has. It clicks rapidly for a few moments and then stops until the engine is started.

Exactly. And it replaced the same pump fitted previously, and that only ticked a few times max. In fact this one worked fine for a while. It has been a recent change in behaviour.

[Lingen]

From your useful experiment with clamping off the delivery pipe, it seems that once the pump has primed itself it works correctly, so I would discount any suggestion of a carburettor fault. It sounds as though it is trying to prime itself again every time it is switched on. This sounds like a valve issue within the pump, so my next step would be to try borrowing one if you can, to see if that works, before asking Robsport for a replacement. .
Mike.

[Babord]

I know you mentioned about keeping the time down without the engine running to avoid overheating the coil. But you can simply disconnect one side of the coil (ground or 12v) and keep the ignition on for as long as you want to let the pump run while you fault find.

Yes thank you, I know that now. I think 10-15 seconds is long enough to know it is not operating correctly though

[NeilR]

DJT, fair enough. I've not had much experience of non SU & injection pumps.
I did buy a Pacet one once for my kit car (until it went injection), got fed up with the constant noise and threw it away.

Neil

[wilf]

A possibilty - Ethanol in our petrol can attack non-ethanol-proof "innards" on fuel pumps.

My relatively new genuine SU pump was down to 25% of its nominal throughput capacity due to this - a refurb with an ethanol-proof overhaul kit fixed it.

[Roy_S]

Timely post, as I'm replacing the washers on my pump as I took the pipes off to clear out 5 years worth of standing gunk.
Ordered the fibre washers as listed by Rimmers (pack of 4) but mine needs 6.
The pump inlet/outlet has a brass threaded insert that screws in, and there seems to be a smaller diameter but thicker fibre washer under this threaded insert. Then the banjo bolt with two fibre washers either side fits into this, the Rimmers picture does not show these threaded inserts or the fibre washers mine needs. But my banjo bolts don't screw direct into the pump. Anyone had to order these up, if so from where? I expect a local plumbers could help.

In the picture you can see the insert on the top connection.

Just to add to this post, in trying to get the car started for the first time today after some years in the garage the fuel pump was ticking but no fuel delivert, I could draw up fuel so knew it was the pump.. If it was broken then I had nothing to lost by taking it aprt, I don't think there are parts available as they didn't even stock the fibre washer I needed.

I took the screws out that are in a ring round the body, and pulled apart, the diaphram was sticky from the old fuel. In each connector inlet/outlet under the banjo, there was a 1-way valve these were held in with a spring clip and were stuck shut, picture below how they look taken apart.

Cleaned out and back in the car, now working but leaks from the float chamber plug, so 2 of these ordered, ruber connecting hose under the car dripping as well so cut that out for replacement.

If anyobe else has a Hardi pump fitted hope the pictures help.