Soft top frame

[GregT]

My first post as a new member and owner - I've just acquired a '76 Stag - terrific in all ways, except the soft top is a royal pain to get up and down requiring two strong people and a lot of pushing and pulling sideways as well as trying to simply pull it up or down. A couple of experienced specialists have had a look - one suggested 'a lot of time (money) and much swearing' to correct - another thinks it could be a component part of the mechanism to latch the frame together may be bent or broken or misaligned.

I've solved the problem short term by putting it down and only driving in the sun, :-) but need to get it sorted since this must be the worst summer on record! I see one parts supplier does recon frames but none in stock presently. I am half of a mind to just buy one and have it fitted, but at over a grand it seems a bit extreme if there are better approaches that would be cheaper (I don't have the interest to do DIY work on it myself, nor a suitable workshop). I'm reluctant to keep trial and error opening and closing as the otherwise perfect (looks new) cover may get damaged.
Would appreciate any advice, contacts etc to help get this solved. I assume that I am not the first to have to deal with this! :-)

Thanks

Greg

[sujitroy]

Greg I try and do everything my self to save cash, but that softop and frame is a royal pain. It will hinder you driving the car, on long trips, with folks in the back and at night when it gets cold. Spend the 1000 UKP now and have one fitted. if you keep your car for 10 years, that's 100 UKP per year. Well worth having a specialist supply and fit. I'm in USA. but South East Trimming seems to be a go to place.

Sujit

[022Dave]

Welcome to the forum, Greg. The hood frame is very easy to bugger if handled roughly, but the individual components can be straightened and adjusted to get a better fit. Have a look in the Technical Section for guidance. I wouldn't blow a grand just yet, in case it can be fixed yourself. Also pay attention to the correct bolts & shims being in the correct places. Also check the header rail arm rivets, which allows movement when raising & lowering - I've seen them welded up when the rivet breaks.

Dave

[JJF]

Hi Greg
Welcome aboard, your wallet has my sympathies.
I honestly wished I'd joined the local Stag group before buying (3 Yr ownership), there'll be one near you hopefully. Nice people, great knowledge and most have been there done it, others no clue (me).
Maybe there's something bent that could be an easy fix but I'm definitely no expert.
Hope you enjoy your car.

[StagJonno]

I was happy with the hood work done by Jim at South East Trimmings (advert in the StagMag). He was recommended to me by another happy customer. There's also Chris Spain of Stagweber who does hoods amongst his services - I understand he's up for phone consultations but best to email first to agree a time. A recently started business, Stag Hood Factory, where I believe Craig worked with Chris Spain for a while.

Good luck - it'll be worth perservering

[GregT]

Thanks all. I've found a local specialist Stag mechanic (truly amazing the people who exist so near that have a love and experience for Stags)! who's got some connections and is persuading me not to splash the cash until a couple of other approaches are tried. However the recommendations above are duly noted and I'll keep them in mind. I'll report back on the eventual result. Sujit's suggestion is in line with my usual approach - 'spend the money and at least get it done once and for all by an expert' - but Dave, JJF and StagJonno have added to my local guy's pragmatism. Jut hope I can get it sorted while there is still some chance of some distance driving in fine weather! I've ordered a Haines Manual for delivery today... the start of a slippery slope, no doubt. And am sure I'll be back here regularly asking the 'blooming obvious' (to most long term Staggers (or is that Staggerrers?) And appreciate the help and advice, so promptly!

Thanks Again!
Greg

[trunt]

Whether its yourself or a local mechanic, its worth taking a look at the Tech section, Chris posted a Checklist which could assist.

https://www.socforum.com/forum/forum/stag-owners-club/technical-section/body-and-interior/21344-hood-refurb-tips

[Mark S]

I'd start off by looking and working out what if anything is bent or broken and if any of the pivot bolts are seized/loose/missing. When I got mine, the frame was in pieces and the front pivots to the headrail seized. There was also a flat piece with a stud that runs above the doors that was bent and broken. I ended up making strengthened pieces for either side because it looked like a weak point. Freeing off pivots and a few replacement pivot bolts and it was good to go. All much easier without the cover fitted but none of the "workings" are hidden with the cover fitted so not too much more of a job.

You don't need a workshop, but if you are stating a total lack of interest in DIY then I would find a trustworty specialist and get your wallet out. It would probably take longer to drive it there and back than finding out what is wrong with it yourself though.

[GregT]

I'd start off by looking and working out what if anything is bent or broken and if any of the pivot bolts are seized/loose/missing. When I got mine, the frame was in pieces and the front pivots to the headrail seized. There was also a flat piece with a stud that runs above the doors that was bent and broken. I ended up making strengthened pieces for either side because it looked like a weak point. Freeing off pivots and a few replacement pivot bolts and it was good to go. All much easier without the cover fitted but none of the "workings" are hidden with the cover fitted so not too much more of a job.

It's probably something in the mechanism that's bent, or the latch on one ide not engaging properly to keep the hood aligned as it's lowered and raised. I agree it would be easier to remove it and see how it all engages out of the car - but that I need some assistance with from someone who's been there before. I have that person now - and am waiting for him to have the time to do so, along with the delivery of the parts that might be most likely.

You don't need a workshop, but if you are stating a total lack of interest in DIY then I would find a trustworthy specialist and get your wallet out. It would probably take longer to drive it there and back than finding out what is wrong with it yourself though.

Agreed - I don't have the room, in the garage I rent to keep her in, for even a small bench, there's no power to it either so literally just a storage garage. If I had a nicely equipped space then I MIGHT be tempted to do the whole DIY thing and remind myself of my late teens and early twenties messing about and teaching myself from the Haines Manual (the brand new Haines for the Stag just arrived from Amazon...!) :-) how to do the whole mechanical stuff - I'm not anything like an engineer, but have a logical mind and follow written and illustrated instructions well and used to do a fair amount of mechanical work; I'm less capable when it comes to making fine adjustments, though, like tuning etc. To be honest, it's a lot easier for me to just spend the money and let an experienced person do it - helps me and helps them (presumably!) On something that requires a lot of trial and error - I bought the car to enjoy driving her, not spend my days and nights underneath or deep inside. But as with any service provider - it's finding one who knows much better than me; is trustworthy and efficient - and available! And reasonable in pricing. So recommendations count highly for me.

[GregT]

Whether its yourself or a local mechanic, its worth taking a look at the Tech section, Chris posted a Checklist which could assist.

https://www.socforum.com/forum/forum...od-refurb-tips

Thanks I'm 'not authorised to view' - I suppose I am waiting to be accepted by the Admin. I tried to edit the reply I gave to someone else and was told I wasn't authorised to do that, either. Even though I'd only just written it. Will bide my time and hope to be accepted soon!

[trunt]

One quick check is to look down into the hinge area and check that the metal spring is sitting on the front side of the tab.. it can sometimes flick over the tab and get to the rear side, if that happens then it will lock about a foot before the head rail makes it to the windscreen.

pic below is left side..

IMG_4083.JPG

[sujitroy]

One quick check is to look down into the hinge area and check that the metal spring is sitting on the front side of the tab.. it can sometimes flick over the tab and get to the rear side, if that happens then it will lock about a foot before the head rail makes it to the windscreen.

pic below is left side..

IMG_4083.JPG

On a spare frame, the PO cut about 1/2" off the end of that spring so it doesn't interfere with that tab. I was able to raise and lower the frame without any issues and wondered what the purpose of the tab's for? On another frame I have used a cable tie to prevent the spring flicking over.
Sujit

[trunt]

If it’s not on the tab it flops around, the tab holds it in position slightly under tension ready to take up that last foot of movement. I found that I could adjust it a bit to ensure it stays put on the tab.

[GregT]

On a spare frame, the PO cut about 1/2" off the end of that spring so it doesn't interfere with that tab. I was able to raise and lower the frame without any issues and wondered what the purpose of the tab's for? On another frame I have used a cable tie to prevent the spring flicking over.
Sujit

Thanks for those - appreciate the time and interest. The problem with the frame is a) when trying to put the hood down. Looking from above facing the rear, the left side fouls on the edges of where it is supposed to collapse into and then b) when raising it (after forcing it in place) it fouls again on the bodywork. I'm reluctant to keep trying as each time the fabric gets rubbed very hard against the body work - so if not careful I'll end up with a rip in what is otherwise an 'as new' hood. The local mechanic has got some parts coming to compare to the frame parts and maybe use as replacements - but I will show him your photos, also. May be a contributor - or indeed the cause. Once up. although it's a tight fit, the latches above with windscreen engage OK. And when in place it looks good. No drafts or gaps.

Thanks!