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    Hood front header rail

    Hi Guys,
    It is time to replace the hood. I have learnt recently the hood front header rail is supposed to roll/ pivot slightly when the locking pins are engaged and the hood is locked down. My hood in the 28 years has never done that. The hood is now stripped of the frame exposing the header rail, frame still in the car. Although a bit rusty the rivet area which is to do the pivoting is factory complete and not broken or been welded. The rivet each side is very tight and doesn't look as though they have ever allowed any movement, Despite some persuasion I haven't freed any of it either side (WD40 and a hammer and dollied). My next move will be a good heat to Cherry Red and cool I will see.
    Any thoughts and advice would be appreciated. Thankyou
    Cheers Ian A

    #2
    You could ask Chris Spain on his StagWeber Facebook site - he's offered to help folk with hood issues
    White 1976 build ("Mk2") only a few mods

    Comment


      #3
      Dismantle the hood frame towards the front bolts and separate it from the rest of the frame. Apply WD40 or better and work it very slowly one side at a time.
      Sujit

      Comment


        #4
        If they will not free up, it’s possible to drill out the rivet & replace with a 6mm bolt & nylon nut.
        that’s what I’ve used when they break.
        might be worth trying ambersil freeze shock penetrant first?
        There are 2 secrets to staying on top :- 1. Don't give everything away.
        2.

        Comment


          #5
          Part 2, I have found the header rail does not follow the contour of windscreen header so the hood header is coming off via the rivets so it can be reformed to match the windscreen. J. How much movement does your hood header have when it is refitted ?
          Cheers Ian A

          Comment


            #6
            Someone had welded the corner joints in mind has the metal around the rivet had failed. This caused a gap above the doors.
            Repaired the corners and used 6mm Clevis pins and those lock washers with sharp internal teeth to secure, less bulky than nylock nuts

            Alan

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