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    Can it be True??

    I have restored 4 cars now none of them leaked.. Until I got a Stag. For a year now I have been chasing leaks and last week I had a go at the J type leak that was bothering me. 3 drives now and no drips on the floor.. success!! now I'm not pretending its completely dry but what is there is minimal and can be wiped off every couple of weeks before it hits the floor.

    Here's the list.
    Cooling:
    freeze plugs on head seeped the first week or so.. they sealed themselves, I guess the gunk the machine shop used worked after a few heat cycles.

    Steering:
    The high pressure connections needed tightening at both ends, I had erred on the safe side when installing them. Then after quite a while the right side bellows started leaking. It was full of oil, I knew this deep down as I was regularly topping up. Eventually I worked out that it was in fact the left side (its LHD car) that was actually leaking, it had passed the oil to the right through the air balancing line. As it was spring and I did not fancy rebuilding the rack again until winter I decided to go against my dislike of snake oils and threw 1/2 bottle of Lucas rack reviver in there.. Blow Me if it didn't work! hardly a leak now and I have not topped up since, then.. 6 months ago.

    Engine:
    I had the usual oil dripping off the clutch slave. Its so difficult to find where it all comes from. Some from the half moon seal on rhs head, that was trimmed and re-sealed. Some from the sump gasket at the rear, I torqued up the bolts again, they were alarmingly loose despite my torqueing them down originally. Then installed a 2mm seal on the oil pump relief valve. there's still a tiny amount of oil that accumulates there, probably from elsewhere but its pretty good. Finally I suspect my rear engine seal is not completely dry as I am seeing some stained oil around the bellhousing, I have a double lip seal to go in but that's definitely a Winter job.

    Overdrive:
    Again the oil gets splattered everywhere so hard to pin down. I established that its not the angle drive, which was a surprise, but in fact the bolts for the cone clutch. I had installed copper washers on the lower ones but not the upper ones and the upper left was the main culprit, could not get a tool on it from below so went through the hole for the gear lever, this took 3 hours.. . All now have a copper washer and a little rtv.


    I'm going to give the 67 MGB a run today, it has not dripped on the floor for years!
    Last edited by trunt; 16 August 2021, 13:31.
    Terry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware

    www.terryhunt.co.uk

    #2
    Excellent, now avoid English winter roads otherwise everything underneath will go rusty!!! When I take mine for its annual MoT test, I have to explain to the examiner that these are not 'oil leaks', these are Triumph's carefully designed underbody protection system .
    '72 Manual O/d Saffron Yellow

    Comment


      #3

      I know the old codger under seal here was to spray engine oil underneath and drive on a dusty trail. Of course British cars take care of that..

      Plenty of salt here in North East USA which I do avoid.. just went through a 95-98 degree week so we do see the extremes.
      Terry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware

      www.terryhunt.co.uk

      Comment


        #4
        As a post war child growing up in Paris, I can still remember my father’s Renault 4 ch going in for services (revision in French). Part of the service included spraying light oil on the underside of the car for rust prevention. Now our Stags have this system built in

        Comment


          #5
          It something to do with the name triumph, as my 650 tr6p and 750 bonny both had similar self oiling system's, but not as much fun on 2 wheels if it gets on the back tyre!

          Comment


            #6
            Have to agree with you I have rebuilt many engines and have done my stag twice the second time a complete rebuild, really took my time the second time everything done and everything was done with sealer and paid for the best gaskets and seals, I laugh every time I see a drip on the floor as I’ve never known a car to be so persistent with oil leaks

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Dean View Post
              Have to agree with you I have rebuilt many engines and have done my stag twice the second time a complete rebuild, really took my time the second time everything done and everything was done with sealer and paid for the best gaskets and seals, I laugh every time I see a drip on the floor as Iāve never known a car to be so persistent with oil leaks
              Yup, I think that the engine seeps left are all from the rubber O rings, if there’s a next time I size the ones supplied and get slightly bigger versions as I did with the relief valve.

              Maybe we should collate all the sizes in one place as a reference?
              Terry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware

              www.terryhunt.co.uk

              Comment


                #8
                Russ (Kryten) rebuilt my engine some four years ago, it’s completely oil tight, unlike before.

                Comment


                  #9
                  My gearbox/overdrive has always leaked from somewhere even after I replaced all the seals in the box including the selector rod ones and fitting another overdrive. Never traced it yet others that it’s not the front seals but one day I’ll get it on a ramp and watch where it comes from.
                  Engine doesn’t leak at all.
                  I have drip trays now in the newly floored garage - LOL!
                  Mike

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by mike@thenook View Post
                    My gearbox/overdrive has always leaked from somewhere even after I replaced all the seals in the box including the selector rod ones and fitting another overdrive. Never traced it yet others that it’s not the front seals but one day I’ll get it on a ramp and watch where it comes from.
                    Engine doesn’t leak at all.
                    I have drip trays now in the newly floored garage - LOL!
                    I was quite surprised that the leaks on my J type were all from the studs/nuts for the rear housing to front housing I.e the ones clamping the cone brake. I was not aware that any of them opened into the oil areas but leak they did. The bottom ones showed signs of leaks in storage, so I had installed copper washers to them but it was only once I was driving it that the top ones started showing leaks, they were fine if the car was just parked. The other place that definitely does open into the gearbox oil are the bolts securing the extension to the main gearbox, they do need copper washers or some kind of sealant.
                    Last edited by trunt; 16 August 2021, 23:08.
                    Terry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware

                    www.terryhunt.co.uk

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Cheers for that trunt, I'll take a look when I next feel like lying on my back - LOL!

                      Could be you've hit on the problem, it's certainly one that gets worse with pressure/increased load..
                      Mike

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Ha! look at that..

                        ROM 40.20.10 line 104


                        "Apply Wellseal to the two copper washers and threads of the two top studs"

                        Would have saved myself a lot of work had I actually read the ROM!
                        Terry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware

                        www.terryhunt.co.uk

                        Comment


                          #13
                          100% for taking advice beforehand….. why is it that we find that too hard to consider? !
                          (Don’t by a stag etc!)

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