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Tauter steering, better feel over standard set-up. Any known improvements?

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    Tauter steering, better feel over standard set-up. Any known improvements?

    Now that I'm reasonably confident that my engine rebuild is all working as expected, I am checking to see if anyone has made any modifications to the standard power steering set-up in order to improve on the 'adequate' level of steering feel, or lack of. There is nothing wrong with mine, it's just one of the features of the car that you get used to but would be better with a bit more tautness and feel. If anyone has successfully improved on the standard set-up and has suggestions do please share on here! Thanks.
    Paul
    Mk 2 1975 TV8 Mimosa

    #2
    Hi Paul,

    I had some success by increasing the castor angle with modified drag strut bushes see https://www.socforum.com/forum/forum...us-arm-removal

    Simon

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      #3
      I use a Merc A class Electric Pump, has adjustable pressure and is variable speed according to load.
      Orginal pump gave steering that was far too light.

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        #4
        Corsa electric steering column and Corsa rack, variable assistance using rotary switch. goes from nice and light to hard to turn.
        Your wife is right, size matters. 3.9RV8

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          #5
          Adding Caster definitely helped on mine, its very stable at speed now and this adds a little extra camber too as you turn into a corner. It also helps with the self centering etc.
          I'm not aware of any downsides really, but I may be corrected!
          1972 Stag 4.3 Serpentine RV8 Injection, Rotrex SuperCharger, ZF4HP24 Auto, BMW 2.65 LSD

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            #6
            Thanks guys for these suggestions, and Simon for the link back to previous thread and more details on how to increase the caster angle, really helpful. Neil, and Jake, regarding the alternative power steering from Merc and Corsa you mention, how easy/difficult was that to fit and source? Thanks
            Paul
            Mk 2 1975 TV8 Mimosa

            Comment


              #7
              I recently checked mine out in terms of both tracking on all 4 wheels using Trackrite and a camber alignment tool (basically a magnet with two optical levels).

              My camber was out on both sides, one much more than the other and to be fair part of that was due to worn poly bushes ( they weren’t super flex which are the only ones I use now haven’t seen the others) but with the aid of the tool I managed to shim both sides so that they are spot on equal and within the FWM figures.
              The Trackrite got the tracking spot on too, far more satisfactory than spending £50+ at the specialists most of whom I’ve experienced have no idea what they are doing.
              The difference having made these adjustments is remarkable, the car has never driven so well in all the years I’ve had it, just wish I’d spent the £60 on these two simple bits of kit years ago.

              You just need to take the time to get it right, I’d reckon on a day to do it properly and I’d be fairly confident in saying most Stags will not have accurate tracking or camber alignment.

              Cheers
              Mike

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                #8
                If you are looking for simply less "assistance", take a look at Classic Driving Development. They offer power steering pump springs to reduce assistance by 20% and by 40%.

                https://classicdrivingdevelopment.co...D=12&page=STAG.

                I don't have experience with this (yet), but it is on my list of things to try.

                Mel

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by mike@thenook View Post
                  I recently checked mine out in terms of both tracking on all 4 wheels using Trackrite and a camber alignment tool (basically a magnet with two optical levels).

                  My camber was out on both sides, one much more than the other and to be fair part of that was due to worn poly bushes ( they weren’t super flex which are the only ones I use now haven’t seen the others) but with the aid of the tool I managed to shim both sides so that they are spot on equal and within the FWM figures.
                  The Trackrite got the tracking spot on too, far more satisfactory than spending £50+ at the specialists most of whom I’ve experienced have no idea what they are doing.
                  The difference having made these adjustments is remarkable, the car has never driven so well in all the years I’ve had it, just wish I’d spent the £60 on these two simple bits of kit years ago.

                  You just need to take the time to get it right, I’d reckon on a day to do it properly and I’d be fairly confident in saying most Stags will not have accurate tracking or camber alignment.

                  Cheers
                  Very interested in this. How did you attach the camber guage?
                  Auto transmission rebuilding since 1979 - for my sins!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Thanks Mike and Mel for additional ideas. As ever, the Forum is a great source of knowledge exchange. Paul
                    Mk 2 1975 TV8 Mimosa

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Paul Kelley View Post
                      ................. Neil, and Jake, regarding the alternative power steering from Merc and Corsa you mention, how easy/difficult was that to fit and source? Thanks
                      Paul
                      Hi,
                      Fitting the Corsa system is a challenge not for the feint hearted. The parts are easy to source and with passable skills can be fitted by anyone with enough imagination to see and overcome difficulties as they turn up. The most challenging was mounting suitable column switches and making a shroud to cover them, ultimately using the Rover 45 column switches and modifying the Corsa shrouds to suit.
                      Technically to fit the system:
                      Make and fit a mounting bracket, mine bolts to the bulkhead and lower dash flange.
                      Extend the length of the Corsa rack to roughly match that of the Stags.
                      Using a LHD Corsa rack, install threaded sleeves to end of track rods to accept larger threaded Stag ends.
                      Make and attach rack mounting to front crossmember.
                      Source rheostat to control electrical assistance. The Corsa provides this through the cars ECU controls which isn't an option.

                      Would I do it again? Probably not, but in my defence the standard system leaked and, despite many attempts, would flush its oil onto the garage floor, which is why I looked for an alternative.
                      The next owner will appreciate it until something goes wrong, then it is just another effing bodge.
                      Being something bespoke it probably reduces the value and sell ability of the car, not that I care much about that.

                      Whatever you chose, if you go for a modern electric column it will probably come from a front wheel drive, in which case the steers rack will attach to the rear of the hub, rather than the front as in the case of the Stag. The corresponding RHD rack for that column will turn the wheels in the opposite direction if fitted in the Stag rack position, which is why you would need to fit the LHD variant.

                      The electric pump sounds the better deal, which I would have preferred if my leak problem hadn't been at the rack end of the system.

                      Rgds

                      John.
                      Your wife is right, size matters. 3.9RV8

                      Comment


                        #12
                        For my Merc pump, I had to make up my own pipes, so a bit fiddly. Pump is rubber mounted to chassis, so flexible pipes not required.

                        Just thought I would have a look at the orginal PAS pump today (currently using electric pump on the car).
                        It was ridiculously light & made a buzzing noise when idling.

                        Took it apart & soon found out why, it had obviously been apart before & whoever did it assembled it wrong,
                        with the large spring on the wrong side of the spool valve. The little gauze filter was blocked as well.
                        So cleaned out the little filter gauze and re-assembled in the correct order.

                        Might put it back on the car & try it sometime.

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                          #13


                          First you have to make sure that all your bushes are decent and everything in the steering and suspension is 100%. I have a cars in the past where owners said it feels odd, only to find one the springs it snapped. Also just don’t concentrate on the front as a rear has a big affect as well.

                          Fitting adjustable dampeners will will help handling issues, as the car can be set up exactly how you want it. With the Gaz shocks the car can go from handling like a boat in a storm to rock solid and everything in between. Also fitting the correct spring rate for your car also give better driver feedback.

                          One of the things I did fit was struck strut brace, which did make a lot of difference as you are equaling the load throughout the car, not allowing on the chassis to flex. This is a very good upgrade for a car with McPherson strut suspension, like the stag.


                          Going one step further than this fitting part or full roll cage will change the handing of the car no end (for the better) if it’s done correctly it will completely eliminate any flex. Another thing you could do is fit low profile tires, obviously this would mean new wheels.

                          I also fitted a electro hydraulic PAS pump, which I had to fit in the boot as there is no space in the engine bay. Mine is controlled by my ECU, but you could get away with it a pressure switch to stop the pump over pressurising the system ( and blowing a fuse) on the extreme locks (max left and right steering). One of the advantage of this is that the power steering will work without the engine running and it can be reduced at speed if you want to.

                          You’ve Got to remember that it is a convertible that was design from a saloon so to get the best handling out of the car the chassis need to be stiffened. However this may make the car a lot harsher than what you want.






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                            #14
                            Thanks Jake and Neil for providing the additional details - thought it wouldn't be a ten minute job! And Bullstartz, I take your point about making sure everything else is correctly set up first, which includes tracking and camber as others have said. I'm going to make this my winter project, getting suspension, shocks, alignment and camber sorted.
                            Mk 2 1975 TV8 Mimosa

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                              #15
                              There is quite a bit of stuff on this pump on YouTube. (The pump is used on may GM cars - It is made by a company called Sagninaw. ) You can change the valve. to increase or reduce pressure. I have not tried it, but plan to look into it one day.
                              Sujit

                              Comment

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