Procedure for replacing the engine oil

[Bakdraft007]

I will be doing my first engine oil change on my Stag this weekend. I searched the ROM, Haynes etc for a procedure, but found none. I then searched the forum (the forum search facility for anything with the word oil in it is practically useless) to find a procedure but still drew a blank.

Although its not a hard thing to do, I wanted the best advise as to whether to warm the engine oil first before removing, and any other tips.

I will also be fitting the quick spin off adaptor and new filter.. any tips for that.

I do know to fill the new filter with oil before fitting, but any help is always appreciated.

Dave

[Lingen]

Dave.
The oil needs to be hot before draining it, but not hot enough to burn you if you get some on you while working.. Carefully remove the sump plug and allow the sump to drain in to something big enough to hold a gallon/4.5 litres with ease. You will also need something to catch the oil as you loosen and remove the old bowl and paper filter as it will spill out. (Don't throw the old assembly away!!)
Before fitting the spin on adaptor, make sure there are no old rubber seals stuck in the back of the groove in the block, before fitting the (square section) new one. Follow the fitting/ tightening instructions.
Don't put too much oil in the new filter or it will spill out as you put it in place, and it will take a little over 4.5 litres to fill the sump after you have put some in the filter.
Don't over tighten the filter either or when you come to remove it for your next oil change, you could end up unscrewing the adaptor from the block.in stead.
It happens!
Mike.

[Bakdraft007]

Dave.
The oil needs to be hot before draining it, but not hot enough to burn you if you get some on you while working.. Carefully remove the sump plug and allow the sump to drain in to something big enough to hold a gallon/4.5 litres with ease. You will also need something to catch the oil as you loosen and remove the old bowl and paper filter as it will spill out. (Don't throw the old assembly away!!)
Before fitting the spin on adaptor, make sure there are no old rubber seals stuck in the back of the groove in the block, before fitting the (square section) new one. Follow the fitting/ tightening instructions.
Don't put too much oil in the new filter or it will spill out as you put it in place, and it will take a little over 4.5 litres to fill the sump after you have put some in the filter.
Don't over tighten the filter either or when you come to remove it for your next oil change, you could end up unscrewing the adaptor from the block.in stead.
It happens!
Mike.

Thanks Mike, that's perfect....just what I was looking for.

[singapore stag]

Also whilst you are at it, do check the seal on the dipstick...is it there?, whats its condition? does it seal properly and is it the right one?
Although you may be well versed with this but just a friendly reminder.

Mine was far too thick and gave a wrong reading, although not too a low reading nevertheless you want an accurate reading and a proper seal.

[richardthestag]

find some way to check that the spin on filter adapter is correctly trapping the inner o-ring whilst also sealing against the outer o-ring

[RobinLegin]

I have two five litre plastic oil cans with an indent on one side and a stopper at the bottom of the indent. See https://www.googleadservices.com/pag...gQIARB1&adurl= There are variations on these.

My mistake was opening the centre bung for the oil to drain into and forgetting to open the second bung at the top. I sent 4 or 5 litres out of the receptacle onto my clean garage floor. I bought a large bag of cat litter to absorb the mess I made. Talk about making extra work for oneself! But I had warmed the oil first to help it flow better

[MandM]

I would stick to the original filter system only as messy as you, and doesn't have a system that may come loose, as others have had, only my thoughts but each to their own. l would also half to 3/4 fill the filter first, I do that on the old system no problems with mess, I also spin it over with the king lead off until the oil light goes out then start properly, stop and check level etc etc.less time with no oil pressure the better.

[wilf]

Used a spin-on conversion for nearly 10 years now without any issues, much easier than the original canister device IMHO. Haven't even used the spare seals I bought along with it originally.

Just different strokes .......etc.

[Lingen]

I have had a spin on kit since 2010 without any issues. It does also allow you to fit a larger filter than the rather mean original, and I have always used a Motaquip VFL 117, or any of the many cross references to other makers...
Mike

[wilf]

Mann W719/27 for example.

[singapore stag]

Mann W719/27 for example.

Thats what I used, after you posted about it sometime back.

[Bakdraft007]

Thanks for all this folks,

I could fit either filter as I have a new old filter and the spin on kit and filter. I sort of thought the spin on would be easier for the future.. but will be careful if I fit it. The old filter looked a bit... well complicated and I thought easy to assemble wrong, hence I bought the spin on kit.

[Bakdraft007]

Also whilst you are at it, do check the seal on the dipstick...is it there?, whats its condition? does it seal properly and is it the right one?
Although you may be well versed with this but just a friendly reminder.

Mine was far too thick and gave a wrong reading, although not too a low reading nevertheless you want an accurate reading and a proper seal.

Its not clear to me how thick the felt should be, I bought mine from paddock, which could be generic although in the stage section, but its also the same one for every other model in their catalogue. Still if its too thick it would only mean I add a bit more oil to get to the correct level, and not by much, so no bad thing.

[Lingen]

I would suggest that it is made to fit neatly inside the cup on the dipstick which will ensure that it keeps its shape. I suspect yours is thicker than that so you could trim it with a sharp blade.
As does the supplier I got mine from recently!
Mike.

[Bakdraft007]

I would suggest that it is made to fit neatly inside the cup on the dipstick which will ensure that it keeps its shape. I suspect yours is thicker than that so you could trim it with a sharp blade.
As does the supplier I got mine from recently!
Mike.

I just removed my dipstick,and this is how it looks:
IMG_5469.PNG

This is interesting as you can see how the flat part at the top of the felt is at an angle. This implies that the tube coming out of the engine is at such an angle the dip stick does not meet it squarely. Thus it maybe just as well that I have a thick washer to make the seal. It clearly is flat all the way around the top so is indeed sealing it.

Ido not want to bend the tube as there is a risk with that so maybe I am better leaving it as it is, but any comments ideas welcome.

Dave