Heater control cable replacement

[Paulfrazer]

The heater control cable has slipped out of its clip, which is, I think, a fairly common problem. I have removed the box containing the controls rather than fish around in the dark for the clip. The outer sheathing has been stripped by the clip, which also seems to be a common problem. The heater valve itself is clean and seems to move freely. As I have it in bits I would like to replace the cable but I cannot see how it connects at the heater end. Can anyone help with this please?

Thanks

Paul

[wilf]

Which cable is it? The one that conects to the water valve, or the one controlling the heater air flaps?

[Paulfrazer]

It is the water valve one I can see where it goes to but not how to get at it

[wilf]

I'll nip out and try to get a pic.

[wilf]

Hope you can make sense of this -

I ecall that when I replaced this cable, it wasn't the easiest of jobs to get it into place!

image_45309.jpg

[Paulfrazer]

Thank you, yes it does make sense. I see there is another of those green clips! Would it be easier to take out the dashboard? It is in so many pieces at the moment that some more won't make much difference!

PS - Did you replace the whole cable or just get a new outer sheath for it? I wonder whether a sheath bought as a separate item might be a bit better quality

[jbuckl]

It’s possible to strip back the outer damaged plastic cover and repair with adhesive type heat shrink tube.
the green clips are essential though. Choke cable clips won’t do the same job. Green clips have a dimple to grip.

[Paulfrazer]

I did wonder about that. Is the heat shrink strong enough for a long term repair?

[jbuckl]

Yes if it’s the adhesive type. The clip grips the whole lot tight… make sure the diameter matches…. Repaired to original.

[Alacrity]

This may be a little clearer for you. I would have though shrink wrap over some glue would work fine, just be 100% sure that valve is free. As an aside I found my cables were all quite stiff with old lubrication but they all freed off fine, they are almost smooth in operation now - though not yet back in the car!

[jbuckl]

When I restored a heater, the cable inners were very corroded. Had to replace. Adjusting all the flaps to work as intended was not straightforward.

[Paulfrazer]

Thanks for all the replies. I have various sizes of heat shrink tube as I repair old radios as a hobby. That would seem to be the most sensible way forward. I do think that the lubrication within the cable has disappeared as the cable itself seems reluctant to move. The valve seems ok if I turn it. There is no verdigris deposit on it. I would need to get the cable out to lubricate it and I think it might be one of those times when getting it out is relatively easy but getting it back is not! Fortunately there is no sign of corrosion on the cables.

I have removed the screws from the part of the dash that contains the instruments and pulled it forward but I would need to remove it completely to get any access. Is it worth the bother of doing that? I have read up on the threads about getting it out and it seems that disconnecting some plugs on the various looms avoids disconnecting the leads individually.

[022Dave]

Hello Paul,

If you are going to suffer the grief of skin & blood loss with the cable(s), I would certainly pull the heater valve out, clean up & lubricate, and fit a fresh 'O' ring.

Dave

[Paulfrazer]

Fortunately my son has managed to get the old one off. I have ordered a new one so hopefully it should be ok. The valve seems to move freely.

PS Sorry Dave I hadn't noticed your message when I posted this one. I will give that some thought. Is the valve held simply by the two water pipes?