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**MikeParker** · 27 October 2021, 10:02

If the rev counter flickers then that points to an ignition problem (excuse the pun). What pick-up are you using in the distributor? If its magnetic it could be the spacing to the rotor being too great.

**singapore stag** · 27 October 2021, 10:22

Originally posted by MikeParker View Post

If the rev counter flickers then that points to an ignition problem (excuse the pun). What pick-up are you using in the distributor? If its magnetic it could be the spacing to the rotor being too great.

Magnetic ignition. What do you mean about the spacing? The elec ignition was put in by a qualified member ......I had to send the dizzy to him.

**MikeParker** · 27 October 2021, 13:21

If it's been done by someone who's in the business then this is probably not the issue. But worth checking. Just take the dizzy cap off and measure the spacing between the rotor and the sensor. Check against the installation spec. for that sensor. Do you know the sensor make?

**richardthestag** · 29 October 2021, 10:24

It might help diagnose if we knew what electric system was installed, power/accuspark, luminition etc etc etc

Pertronix comes on it's own baseplate and unless there is significant wear in the top shaft of the distributor it should not cause a problem, that said... and NOT touting for business here wheelz, hughsey et al the pertronix system that I installed to the 1971 Range Rover rover v8 caused the 52mm tacho installed on the centre dash to flicker occasionally. Chinesium electronics inside the chinesium tacho was the answer I got back, when the car comes in for a service and to finish off some of the last items I have a very old school tacho that I will wire direct to he coil and check it.

Best wishes

Richard

**singapore stag** · 29 October 2021, 11:12

Originally posted by richardthestag View Post

It might help diagnose if we knew what electric system was installed, power/accuspark, luminition etc etc etc

Pertronix comes on it's own baseplate and unless there is significant wear in the top shaft of the distributor it should not cause a problem, that said... and NOT touting for business here wheelz, hughsey et al the pertronix system that I installed to the 1971 Range Rover rover v8 caused the 52mm tacho installed on the centre dash to flicker occasionally. Chinesium electronics inside the chinesium tacho was the answer I got back, when the car comes in for a service and to finish off some of the last items I have a very old school tacho that I will wire direct to he coil and check it.

Best wishes

Richard

Hi Richard, it has a new powerspark electronic ignition with the Viper Coil and Ldparts HT leads.n
New SOC base plates as per recommedation from Julian. New Champion spark plugs set at 30 thou. Timing set at 12 btdc.

The idle speed is a bit low, I did not want to start tweaking it because I am really not too well versed with the Stroms. It idles at 4-5 .....
it's not a smooth idle. Now and then it sort of ......lets say for example if its idling at 9 on the rev counter the engine will go to 4 then back up to 9 in quick succession. This will happen every 5-6 seconds.

I have the Weber...whiich I cannot put back on....even if I wanted to I can't, because................it was tested on my car, the plates for the linkages were very crude, they were literally " snipped" from sheet metal filed down and fitted. The manufacturer did not have the decency to offer me the "New" linkage when it was invented, ( just looked at them and smiled, at National day at stoneleigh..remarked "ohh i remember these" ) since I did pay a lot intially for the weber when my car was used to test and invent the weber.

The old linkage and weber just fall apart. Not blaming anyone anymore.... I have passed that stage.

Help now sought for stroms to idle to 50 pence perfection.

**MikeParker** · 29 October 2021, 13:36

Hi Sukhi,

When the rev counter flicks up to 900, do the revs increase also? It would be fairly dramatic if the engine suddenly doubles its revs. If not, it is almost certainly ignition problems

Do you know which Viper coil you have? There are different types with different resistances. It should be greater than 1.5 ohm. See this from Powerspark:

" To be used with a coil resistance above 1.5 ohms only, unless your car is fitted with a ballast resistor and then the coil must be a ballast coil. (Typically ballast coil resistance is 1.5 Ohms and the ballast is 1.6 Ohms so the resistance is around 3 Ohms)"

The blurb says that the unit attempts to detect a stationary engine and switch off the coil, so perhaps that is happening at 400 rpm. That is a very low idle speed.

It is easy to adjust idle speed. It is the two flathead screws on springs, facing upwards, that wind open the throttles. Just rotate each one by 1/2 turn clockwise and see what happens. You can always put them back!
Mike

**singapore stag** · 29 October 2021, 15:34

Mike, the coil is proper to the electronic ignition and ballast. All ok on that front ......the 900 in question ( " lets say for example if its idling at 9 on the rev counter the engine will go to 4 then back up to 9 in quick succession. This will happen every 5-6 seconds " ) is just hypertactical.

I am led to believe it may be a vacuum leak. Last time I notice that the carbs were loose on the pedestal, I could move them left or right slightly....will this be an issue?
I will tighten them up and see what happens.
Don't know what to call this issue....Rev flutter? Revs going up and down? Air suck? I had this in a car I owned many years ago, it was the Air control Valve.

**MikeParker** · 29 October 2021, 17:04

Sukhi, what I don't understand is whether the engine is really changing speed (RPM) or is it just the rev counter that changes what it displays. When the rev counter goes from 9 to 4, does the engine slow down by that much? That is a halving in speed which you would easily hear and see. If the engine doesn't slow down by that much, it is probably an ignition problem.

You can normally rotate the carbs slightly on the manifold. There is a locating pin which is not a precise fit in the mating hole, so it allows a bit of rotation. That's what happens on my car, in any case!

Mike

**richardthestag** · 29 October 2021, 17:44

can of wd40 sprayed carefully around the carb joints will detect any air leak, the revs will rise slightly when you get to the leak.

I will say that if the revs are too low then the idle will be lumpy.

**flying farmer** · 29 October 2021, 19:33

I had a dodgy in loom ballast resistor on my Mk2 stag.

It would run fine in daylight but at night or if the Kenlowe kicked in the voltage would drop and the idle would get very unsteady.

It was fine at higher revs and wide open throttle, but again that was voltage related. At idle the alternator couldn't keep up with demand and gave too weak a spark to support ignition whereas a coil fault often gives a good idle but a high load missfire. That car was on efi so I knew it wasn't a carb problem!

Neil

**singapore stag** · 29 October 2021, 23:21

Originally posted by richardthestag View Post

can of wd40 sprayed carefully around the carb joints will detect any air leak, the revs will rise slightly when you get to the leak.

I will say that if the revs are too low then the idle will be lumpy.

Mmmm, low revs lumpy idle. Well, will put the revs up tomorrow.but I have already tried it...turned the screw a little at a time 3 times but no significant change in the revs???? Do I need to tweak any other adjustments i.e air, mixture etc.
The engine is emitting a nice colour and water from exhaust though

**singapore stag** · 29 October 2021, 23:23

Richard....is that you sitting in the stag without cloths in the profile pic?

**trunt** · 29 October 2021, 23:38

Originally posted by singapore stag View Post

Mmmm, low revs lumpy idle. Well, will put the revs up tomorrow.but I have already tried it...turned the screw a little at a time 3 times but no significant change in the revs???? Do I need to tweak any other adjustments i.e air, mixture etc.
The engine is emitting a nice colour and water from exhaust though

The screws should absolutely cause the rpm to go up, maybe the adjustment screws are not actually touching the stops yet? could be the linkage is holding the 500rpm and the screws are not actually in play yet? look at the gap between the end of the screw and the stop, is it touching?

Did you release the linkage between the two and balance them?

Terry

**singapore stag** · 29 October 2021, 23:47

Originally posted by trunt View Post

The screws should absolutely cause the rpm to go up, maybe the adjustment screws are not actually touching the stops yet? could be the linkage is holding the 500rpm and the screws are not actually in play yet? look at the gap between the end of the screw and the stop, is it touching?

Did you release the linkage between the two and balance them?

Terry

Good point!
So do I need to take off the linkage connecting both carbs before turning up the idle screws? Is this the linkage
2151-Zoom.jpg
Sorry but the ROM is very confusing for me...too much info to do this then that then this in quick succession.

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