Gummed up rings.

[DMT]

Evening Folks

Is there a working method to release gummed up rings? I have a recently ( 5 years ) rebuilt engine that has done very few miles since rebuild and very few in its last couple of years before I bought it. ( 1 year ago)

I have read through the the different topics and my last attempt was pouring diesel in overnight . It did not help.

I definitely have pressure going past the piston but unless the ring/s have broken I assume they are stuck. I have looked in the cylinder with a camera and can still see the honing marks , all looks similar to the other cylinders. The engine runs well so I do not intend to remove the piston at this time.

I have driven about 500 miles since purchase and this has not cured the problem.

The pressure in the cylinder is about 20 psi lower than the others which are 145/150 psi.

Apart from pouring in Loctite to fix a broken ring is there another way or releasing a ring/s?

Any help will be appreciated.

Dave

[StagJonno]

If it were me, I'd try the BMEP (Brake Mean Effective Pressure) method - sometimes referred to the Italian Tune Up.

In the forum Search (towards the top on the RHS of the page) put in BMEP and there are several posts on this. Usually recommended for glazed bores which can arise from gentle driving.

Can't hurt and can be fun

I note that several posts speak highly of Valvolene VR1. This used to be a well respected oil for Stag owners with good levels of ZDDP which are helpful in reducing wear of the camshaft/ cam buckets. In Europe, they have reformulated this oil and since have been unwilling to declare the value (USA formulations seem to be OK), so many folk (including me) have changed to one of the many other oils for classics, where the ZDDP level is declared.

[wilf]

Needs WOT at around 4000 to 4500 rpm (peak torque point) - this is when Max BMEP occurs. Some nice long hills are needed.

[wilf]

WOT - Wide Open Throttle.

BMEP - Brake Mean Effective Pressure. This will be at its peak at the peak torque rpms. The pressure inside the cylinder helps the top ring to seal against the cylinder wall - it is forced outwards by combustion pressures.

[DMT]

Thanks guys

I use Classic Oils, Heritage 20/50 with the higher levels of ZDDP, but have been a bit gentle on the throttle, so this weekend will put peddle to the metal ( at least 60 mph) and see what happens.

I think it seems waiting is the best option.

Dave

[StagJonno]

Thanks guys

I use Classic Oils, Heritage 20/50 with the higher levels of ZDDP, but have been a bit gentle on the throttle, so this weekend will put peddle to the metal ( at least 60 mph) and see what happens.

I think it seems waiting is the best option.

Dave

It's not speed as such, it's keeping up in the rev band with a decent load (eg going up a long hill) . And repeat, and again, at will until the smile on your face seems permanent.. Then repeat tomorrow .......

[022Dave]

Just don't tell Greta........

[Phil S]

You are assuming the rings are stuck in the piston, it could also be blow by caused by the 3 ring gaps being in line. Not saying it is or isn't but should be considered

[DMT]

Hi Phil

I hadn't thought of that. Will they eventually move out of line or is it self sustaining?

Regards

Dave

[flying farmer]

I had it happen once on a Rover engine, I thought it was knackered until I stripped it and found the aligned rings on one cylinder.

Didn't know what the problem was or I would have ignored it for a while to see if it was self curing or not.

I woulod try the italian tune up first!

Neil

[jbuckl]

Let us know what happens