Jobs you do on a newly acquired vehicle

[Tdafforn]

Hi All,
Having just acquired my stag (and having recommissioned 2 classic since the begining of COVID) I was musing that I now do pretty much the same set of jobs on every classic I get. I wondered whether you agreed with my list, or had other things you prioritised? My top 10 list is in a semi order of priority:
1) check tyre age and renew if >6 years old
2) check brake pads, shoes, calipers, slave and master cylinders (replace/refurb as appropriate
3) renew all coolant hoses, fuel hoses and brake hoses
4) renew all coolant and oil and flush braking system
5) new oil (engine/gearbox and diff), air and petrol filters
6) Recore rad (I have a local guy who does it very well and reasonable cost) replace engine driven fan with electric)
7) rebush suspension
8) Fit Relays for headlights and rad fan if not already fitted
9) convert to electronic ign.
10) check and adjust timing and mixture (using AFR meter).

What things would you add (or not do?)

Cheers
Tim

[Lingen]

Tim.
A very comprehensive list. With regard to re-coring the radiator, make sure you get the right one for the job. Some of those on offer for the Stag are just up to it.
As for the electric fan, I would only fit one in conjunction with the engine driven one if it became necessary (towing etc). The advantage of the engine driven one is that it is always working. In the confined space under a Stag bonnet, air temperatures can rise very rapidly without a fan permanently running. This is not good for the electrics, and also exacerbates the vapourisation problems already associated with having ethanol in the petrol.
Mike.

[barkerwilliams]

Tim,

Additionally I would (at no expense)

No 1 - compression test. If it is bad that is where the money imight be going.

No 2 leakdown test.

I would probably examine the power steering fluid. On the power steering rack and on the prop shaft are grease nipples, or blanking screws that need removing to temporarily fit a nipple and grease.

I would remove the fuel float on top of the tank and examine the interior of the tank for rust.

Then there is the dreaded E10 fuel. So get some ethylene proof hose and get plumbing.

View ignition coil with suspicion, depending on the make, modern Lucas is fit for recycling.

Checkiing diff quill shaft bearing for play.

Check the foam in the front seats & headrests - dust in the footwells.

Fuse boxes suffer from poor oxidised contacts so allow wipers and cockpit fan to run for sometime to ensure OK.


And if you have some cash left I would-

The headlights are non to bright and I would fit LED headlight bulbs which avoids the expense of fitting relays.

I would not rush to recore a radiator, but probably fit an electric fan to the radiator using the money planned for a re-core.

Buy a fire extinguisher.


Alan

[Tdafforn]

Alan, it's like you are reading my mind. The seats do need new bolsters, already ascertained the quil shaft bearings are probably shot (signs of oil leaving from the front of the dif) but the diff whines so in need of rebuild. Forgot the power steering pump and like the idea of looking in the fuel tank. Was hard to do on the tr6, midget and cortina I have been working on without emptying the tank.
also agree the quality of coils is awful. I replaced the old one on my TR6 and it failed within 1000 miles. Went back to the old one which has been on since if got the car, almost a decade a go.

Cheers
Tim

[Tdafforn]

Mike,
interesting your thoughts on the Rad and fan. I have an RV8 in the car. Can you run an engine fan on the rv8? The guy who does my recores is old school. Does vintage (had a bugatti one in last time I was there) through to modern. He is very good. Redid my cortina one where the header tanks are generally impossible to recover. So built a replicer from an old escort tank. You could only tell the difference if you looked real close. I bought him my 2500 saloon one and he identified it before I got through the door. Upgraded it to a triple core and it was fab.
But I will see what the state of the on I have is before commiting.
tim

[DJT]

The headlights are non to bright and I would fit LED headlight bulbs which avoids the expense of fitting relays.

Much cheaper to fit relays than fit LED bulbs, especially if the existing headlamps are in good condition.

[Stag-Victor]

in addition to the brake hoses under 3) I would also check the brake lines themselves. I found on mine the front to rear pipe was on the point of failure on account of it being a bit awkward to replace.

if not mentioned already I also check the condition of the underseal for loose/flaking and rectify before it becomes a problem.

[Lingen]

Tim.
You certainly can't fit a Stag one as it bolts on to the crankshaft damper/pulley. I believe the RV8 one is belt driven from the water pump?
On the move, ram air should keep temperatures down under the bonnet, but I would suggest that in warmer weather you should fire up the electric fan when you are stationary, or moving slowly in traffic, regardless of the water temperature.
Mike.

[mole42]

Fuse boxes suffer from poor oxidised contacts so allow wipers and cockpit fan to run for sometime to ensure OK.

Oxidised contacts are easy enough, it's when the rivets that hold the spade connectors onto the fuse clips start to lose their grip that it starts to get more interesting. Needs the fusebox pulling out and a session with a riveting tool and hammer to tighten them up again. After that, good for the next 50 years!

[stagwingnut]

I believe on a RV8 engine, there isn’t the room for its standard fan when in a stag , electric being the only option, regards Graham

[Tdafforn]

Thanks Graham.
I think I'll install the Spal fan I use on the TR, handles the heat from a supercharged 6 so should be plenty of capacity
Tim