Crimper and Crimps

[singapore stag]

Hi, It was about time I invested in a Wire Stripper, Crimps and Crimper , which I bought a couple of days ago.. Blue Crimper I inherited many years ago and it gave me a totally rubbish faithful service.

The wire Stripper is fit for purpose and am happy with it. The blue Crimper only does slightly larger Crimps then the Crimps I have, overall I find it not crimping up to standard the Insulated and non Insulated Crimps.
The yellow Crimper can Crimp from as low as number 1.
What I want to know is will it Crimp the uninsulated Crimps in the picture, is this the right tool for it? I can exchange it if it does not. The blue Crimper does not Crimp them.

Thanks,

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[new to this]

The green crimpers are the type i use,but when crimping non-insulated crimps i use side cutters and then solder the joint afterwards

[LD334]

Crimp and solder is definitely the best for the uninsulated connectors.

[bullstarz]

A couple of months ago I did a re-do on alot of the wiring in the car as it was a real snakes wedding. I had a lot of the connectors, some waterproof .which hadn’t worked correctly and the pin or wire or both had come out. Then I found that there is a special crimper for these. I had struggled for years with a normal Rachet crimper, the along came this crimper and in one go 100% success on every pin. If I’d only found it sooner it would have saved my weeks and a small fortune.

ED8FD551-5B32-42E5-9958-0EAF6A47AF6A.jpeg 841DADB1-3B2B-42BF-A020-569B06C6CC53.png

[new to this]

A couple of months ago I did a re-do on alot of the wiring in the car as it was a real snakes wedding. I had a lot of the connectors, some waterproof .which hadn’t worked correctly and the pin or wire or both had come out. Then I found that there is a special crimper for these. I had struggled for years with a normal Rachet crimper, the along came this crimper and in one go 100% success on every pin. If I’d only found it sooner it would have saved my weeks and a small fortune.

ED8FD551-5B32-42E5-9958-0EAF6A47AF6A.jpeg 841DADB1-3B2B-42BF-A020-569B06C6CC53.png

Ive been using those water proof conectors on the Sprint,still use side cutters and solder

[trunt]

I cannot see from your photos but the non-insulated type crimper for those ones in your original post has double step jaws. One side is plain and the other had a small ridge in the middle to turn the open ends over. I’ll try to take pictures but same as bulstarz. I find they work fine and I don’t need solder.

[trunt]

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[singapore stag]

I just cannot seem to use the soldering iron and solder!!!! The wire just do not melt onto the object to be soldered....it gets really hot, thats about it. Its really doing my head in, feel like flinging it into a bottomless bin.
I have the right soldering wire, flux, soldering iron..sort of mediocre iron.
watched countless Youtube vids on the subject but, mine do not solder.....

[Wheelz]

Crimping wires reliably is not just a matter of using any old terminals and a pair of cutters/pliers or a cheap crimp tool not fit for purpose. Both the terminal and the crimp tool needs to be of good quality, and of the correct type.

Pre insulated terminals are just about adequate if you use good quality terminals and colour coded ratchet tool, but the best to use for reliability is the professional non-insulated type with the appropriate crimp tool, because this folds the metal over onto the wire and applies a very high force. Not as easy to do, but well worth the effort.

[StagJonno]

Getting the correct tooling is key. Some argue against soldering as the acidic flux residues prompt corrosion.

[trunt]

I just cannot seem to use the soldering iron and solder!!!! The wire just do not melt onto the object to be soldered....it gets really hot, thats about it. Its really doing my head in, feel like flinging it into a bottomless bin.
I have the right soldering wire, flux, soldering iron..sort of mediocre iron.
watched countless Youtube vids on the subject but, mine do not solder.....

Sometimes the old wires are so oxidised that they resist the solder, or make bad crimps. using a good flux and tinning the wires and connectors will help it but if it’s bad then cutting the wire back to a better part and splicing in a piece is the only recourse, especially in the engine compartment..

if you are worried about the acidic flux use brake cleaner and a toothbrush to clean after soldering

[jbuckl]

I recently bought a couple of rolls of covered flux solder. I did not get good results initially.
I also had a new iron which was variable temperature.
the issue seemed to be better when the iron was turned down a bit to 200c.
However, not all solder seems as ready to flow as it used to.

[trunt]

Get some rosin flux, often there' s just not enough flux in the cored solder for these manky wires. dip the wire in the flux and then tin it.. Avoid the lead free solder..

I have always used a Weller W60P3 with various tips. the tips are around 700F or 800F, (375-425C) more important is the wattage, 50-60w is usually enough for most work.

[Tdafforn]

I switched to the uninsulated connectors and the correct crimping tool and it has worked beautifully. I can hang an alternator on one and it doesn't let go. I keep away from solder in these as it isn't needed.

[jakesmig]

I just cannot seem to use the soldering iron and solder!!!! The wire just do not melt onto the object to be soldered....it gets really hot, thats about it. Its really doing my head in, feel like flinging it into a bottomless bin.
I have the right soldering wire, flux, soldering iron..sort of mediocre iron.
watched countless Youtube vids on the subject but, mine do not solder.....

Dab a little solder onto the hot iron before you place it on the item to be soldered, I find it gives better and quicker heat transfer.