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    Propshaft UJ Replacement

    Hi team,

    I need to replace the UJ's on my prop shaft.

    Has anyone had any experience of doing this? Aware that there is a press tool involved... is it a complete mission? Do I need get her up on a proper garage lift?

    Also, what type of UJ is best, staked? circlip or heavy duty? Or would you recommend getting a CV Propshaft outright?

    Thanks

    Chix

    Enjoying every minute of it...

    #2
    Job is do-able but the balancing afterwards is either hit and miss or perhaps best left to a specialist to do the whole job. Mine was done in Bristol at a propshaft specialist. There are a few about the country and it wasn't expensive.

    Alan

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by barkerwilliams View Post
      Job is do-able but the balancing afterwards is either hit and miss or perhaps best left to a specialist to do the whole job. Mine was done in Bristol at a propshaft specialist. There are a few about the country and it wasn't expensive.

      Alan
      Balancing? As in, adding weights and stuff like you do wheels, to the Propshaft? Even if I'm just replacing the UJ?

      What is the result of a poorly balanced prop shaft? Vibration?

      Thanks for the heads up...
      Enjoying every minute of it...

      Comment


        #4
        Also, would you recommend these?



        And would it be worth doing the drive shaft UJ's at the same time?

        Thanks
        Enjoying every minute of it...

        Comment


          #5
          Propshaft U/Js aren’t staked, they are circlips type, so those from LD would do fine. You don’t need a press; the job can be done in a bench vice using simple tools. Plenty of videos available. Balancing should not be necessary if you mark the joints before dismantling and rebuild following the same alignment marks.

          Driveshafts may be staked or circlip type, you will have to check before you start. Circlip type are done the same way as the propshaft ones.
          Dave
          1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

          Comment


            #6
            Hi Chix,

            Well I had a mixed bag. I think getting the prop shaft off was the worst bit as you need room underneath and axle stands ( at least the ones I have) just don't cut it...

            Once of one of the UJ's was terrible... easy to identify. The other felt fine, but I had bought 2 and as the prop-shaft was so hard to get off, I planned to change both. That were it ended... planned.

            The really bad one was cir clipped in, and some cir-clips came out but one absolutely refused.... after much stress it came out and I eventually replaced the UJ. It was fine..but then I thought that I might end up with a bigger problem changing the other working one.. so much to my discomfort, I left that as it was and put it back.. very had work.

            That said, it made the world of difference.... and is now good as new.

            In summary, I had a press and vice, but if things go well you could manage without.... on the other hand...... Good Luck!

            Dave

            Comment


              #7
              As Dave said, I did all mine with a big vice and a couple of sockets, but would get another pair of hands to help in holding the prop etc while pushing them in and out.
              "The UK,s 2nd Most Easterly Stag" Quad Exhaust- ZF 4 Speed BOX

              Comment


                #8
                Prop off is the hardest part.
                Mark all flanges to ensure it goes back the same way.
                use a small socket and give the bearing cup a tap inward this should free it from the circuit.
                With all 4 out, use a bench vice and 2 sockets a large one thatfits over the cup, and a smaller one that fits in as a press tool.
                Another pair or hands helps as you need to hold the prop shaft in the vice with the 2 sockets in place and wind the vice in.
                This will press 1 cup out, you may need a pair of grips for the final 1/4" of removal. turn the procedure 90 deg and repeat.
                Now di the other 2.
                Replace in the reverse order.
                If 1 cup is reluctant to move under pressure give the vice jaw a clump and the shock should cure the problem.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Thanks so much team. So just to clarify, I need two UJ’s for the Prop shaft? I could only see one at the diff end on the RB website?
                  Enjoying every minute of it...

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Yes two UJ’s. Take a photo of it before you start and mark it up. That way it will go back together the right way, I normal use something like Tippex.

                    1EBD547D-EF2E-42C7-BE85-59E5B4653491.jpeg
                    Last edited by bullstarz; 28 December 2021, 13:32.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Hi,

                      Just a small word of warning. I fitted new UJs to my propshaft only to still have some prop vibration which was caused by worn splines. Worn spline vibration has its own signature in that it gets better when under torque. I eventually fitted a CV type, which, as you say, was an outright purchase. I have kept my old prop in case I need to revert to standard at some point. The CV prop has been excellent though - completely smooth and no wear issues as yet (after 15 years or so). So recommended by me.

                      Mike

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Am I right in thinking that you need to drop at least part of the exhaust to get the prop shaft out?

                        Terry
                        Terry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware

                        www.terryhunt.co.uk

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by trunt View Post
                          Am I right in thinking that you need to drop at least part of the exhaust to get the prop shaft out?

                          Terry
                          Yes, you need to remove the rear section of the exhaust up to the boxes, from what I remember. You can then drop the rear of the prop shaft and remove it from the rear of the car.

                          Mike

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by MikeParker View Post
                            Hi,

                            Just a small word of warning. I fitted new UJs to my propshaft only to still have some prop vibration which was caused by worn splines. Worn spline vibration has its own signature in that it gets better when under torque. I eventually fitted a CV type, which, as you say, was an outright purchase. I have kept my old prop in case I need to revert to standard at some point. The CV prop has been excellent though - completely smooth and no wear issues as yet (after 15 years or so). So recommended by me.

                            Mike
                            Thanks Mike, good shout. Can you tell me, did you need to balance the CV prop shaft, or didn’t it need balancing?

                            Also, is the spline part of the prop shaft? For a worn spline, did you need a new quill too? Or was it just the part of the prop shaft that the spline goes into that was worn?

                            Thanks so much for this great advice guys..
                            Enjoying every minute of it...

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by MikeParker View Post

                              Yes, you need to remove the rear section of the exhaust up to the boxes, from what I remember. You can then drop the rear of the prop shaft and remove it from the rear of the car.

                              Mike

                              I thought about removing the front left down pipe.. release the crosspiece clamp and spring the left pipe out a bit to remove it forwards? Would that work?
                              Terry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware

                              www.terryhunt.co.uk

                              Comment

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