Fascia panels

[Babord]

I would like to get the interior wood re-veneered, but my first step was working out how hard removing all the panels would likely be.
It seems like it should be quite easy, but how do you remove the wooden fresh air vent surrounds? I am also wondering about the best way to manage the choke knob and cable?
And for those that have done it before, will there likely be any surprises I haven't thought of from just taking a quick look so far?

[Babord]

Has nobody done this job before?

[Philip Wardle]

I assume the question concerns the centre air vent and veneer and LHS air-vent and veneer on a RHD car. My solution is:

1. Unscrew one or other end of the stay on the glovebox lid in preparation for removing the lid at step (3).

1. Starting with the centre air vent louvres in their normal position, rotate the upper louvre through 90 degrees to that you can insert a cross head screwdriver above the louvre and into the top-left and top-right corners of the housing. Undo the screws enough to allow the retaining bracket behind to move sufficiently to allow the vent to be eased forward, this will also allow the veneer to be removed.

1. As you remove the centre air vent and veneer be careful to support the glove box lid as you disengage the hinge at its bottom right-hand corner. Put the centre air vent and veneer to one side and disengage the glove box lid from the hinge at the bottom left-hand corner. When disengaging each hinge take care not to bent the hinge pins. Put the glove box lid to one side.

1. Undo the retaining screws holding the glove box itself into the dashboard. Withdraw the glove box and put on one side.

1. The LHS air vent is secured in place by two brackets and thumbwheel screws on a similar principle to the way the instruments are secured to the instrument panel, or the way the fuel filler cap is secured to the rear wing. Reaching through the glove box opening, remove the thumbwheel screws and brackets from the rear and withdraw the air vent from the front. Owing to corrosion, you may need a pliers to loosen the thumbwheel screws unless your fingers are a lot stronger that mine. Put the air vent on one side.

1. The LHS air vent veneer is separately fixed by two studs, plain washers, spring washers and nuts which have to be removed from the rear. The veneer can then be removed from the front.

1. The person doing the veneer work (whether yourself or someone else) may want to remove the two studs from the rear of the LHS air vent veneer. This is done by locking two nuts on each stud and unwinding. It’s useful to know that the studs penetrate the veneer to a depth of 0.25”, no more.

“Other ways of doing this job are available”

[Wheelz]

Note that if you have any non-standard gauges with the capillary tubes (temp/oil pressure), they will also need disconnecting from the engine.

[AJLC]

Regarding the choke cable there are lots of people have big problems for various reasons. Mine was one of the awkward ones initially. I was convinced there was a screw or pin visible but it was actually a dimple in the plastic so the knob could not be removed. I disconnected mine at carbs and taped some thin wire to both and then checking under dash, gently pulled them through, undid bezel on knob and took them out through the choke cable hole. Disconnect from the wire and job done. Reverse is retape wires to cable and feed/pull through gently. I managed it on my own no problem. The wires followed original route, reconnected to carbs and all sorted. Only took 10mins each time.

[sujitroy]

my choke cable was an after market one. the know is glued on. I had to disconnect the lines at the carb ends and feed thru.

[Fortyfiver]

I broke my glued knob off then bought a new one,got a 2mm grub screw off ebay and tapped a thread into the plastic so i can take it off easily in the future
Alan

[Babord]

Just what I needed, many thanks! Following those instructions it all came out quickly and easily. Only thing left to free is the choke cable. I can't see how that can come out even when disconnecting from the carbs. I may just do what Alan has done above and break it off. Will go and have some lunch and then go back and attack.

[Babord]

Sorry, being stupid with the the choke cable! Disconnected from carbs and pulled out! all done. Thanks again!

[Fortyfiver]

I couldn’t do that as the cables had frayed on the end and wouldn’t of gone back through, glad your sorted
Alan

[AJLC]

bit of solder and twist with pliers will sort frayed cable

[sujitroy]

I wasn't able to solder the cables however someone mentioned to dip them in phosphoric acid first.