Carb dis-assembly help wanted

[Rigid]

I'm re-building my Stromberg carbs using the kits that were supplied with the car when I bought it in September.
The picture below shows that it has probably been a while since anyone did the same.
thumbnail_IMG_1047.jpg

I've hit a snag on the second carb.
The needle adjustment screw isn't like the usual one - it doesn't have an Allen key hole to allow me to unscrew it and replace the sealing o-ring.
It has some strange inverted flat-screw top, which doesn't come out, even when I have manged to turn it.
Anyone ever seen this before (you may need to zoom in)
thumbnail_IMG_1058.jpg

How does it come out?

[trunt]

Are you sure the second carb is the correct type? Early Strombergs we’re not adjusted from the top, the needle is fixed type and they had an adjuster at the bottom of the reservoir, or maybe an old style piston made its way into your carb. Have you removed the needle? Is it the same type as the other one?
Also the first picture looks like brass plug, I’m used to seeing a plastic one?? May mean nothing..

[trunt]

The brass "plug" is the adjuister for the fixed needle type.

I wondered.. never actually worked on one but knew about them..

Edit.. better info below!

[richardthestag]

The needle adjuster in your photo is of the type used on Rover v8 etc and not on the stag which is a hex key.

You should still have a grub screw on the side of the piston, remove that and you may be able to use a jewellers screwdriver to wind the needle off the adjuster.

Else PM and I would help you get the needle out for the cost of return postage. BURLEN sell the correct stag type adjuster which is compatible with this piston

[trunt]

The needle adjuster is of the type used on Rover v8 etc and not on the stag which is a hex key.

You should still have a grub screw on the side of the piston, remove that and you may be able to use a jewellers screwdriver to wind the needle off the adjuster.

Else PM and I would help you get the needle out for the cost of return postage. BURLEN sell the correct stag type adjuster which is compatible with this piston

So it’s still adjusted at the needle?

[richardthestag]

To save any more misinformation, this is the tool that the carb needs

https://www.scparts.co.uk/sc_en/adjusting-tool-1-148196.html

Like I said, PM me and if you post it and pay for return postage I should be able to pull it all apart for you

[richardthestag]

So it’s still adjusted at the needle?

It is sir

[Rigid]

Hi Richard.
Interesting about the Rover alternative.
It does have the normal Stag needle - I've removed the side screw with the sprung nose and taken the needle out.

I'll take a look at the alternative tool to see what I can come up with otherwise i'll be in touch about posting it across to you..
Thanks.
Another Richard

[Rigid]

Update.
All removed and carb rebuilt as directed by Triumph.

I hadn't realised that the problem needle adjuster attaches to the needle but nothing else.
So, with the needle out the cap just pushes out.
My problem came because the Rover adjuster had a star washer holding it tightly in the damper tube, rather than just the o-ring with the Stag version.
You can just make out the marks left on the side of the tube in the second photo above.
See below for comparisons (don't worry about the bent needle)

thumbnail_IMG_1061.jpg

[trunt]

Could you replace the new style adjuster with an old style one? Are they the same size?

[DJT]

The stag adjuster is also held in place with a star washer. Plenty of info on here: https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/carburetors

The adjuster is featured in Part II The Overhaul, Page 8

Also a very good document created by dasadrew in this Forum Technical Section under Fuel and Exhaust , Carburettor Tips & Tricks:

https://www.socforum.com/forum/filedata/fetch?id=763091&d=1532024915

[Rigid]

Oh Dave.
Dashpots off again then.
The rebuild kit comes with all sorts of washers and gaskets, not all obviously needed until you know better.

Thanks
Richard

[elvimto]

Just a tip before you assemble get a bit of emery and take a bolt or tube that will fit where the start washer came out of and cut it with a hacksaw down the length in the middle that is where you slot in the emery in and then wrap the emery and polish the inside of the tube area the reason is the washer scratches the tube and that is where the O ring has to pass when you put it back together. You will also need a small tube to seat the washer when you install it. Hope I am not teaching you to suck eggs as they say.

[Rigid]

Thanks for the tip elvimto.
I'm concentrating on varnishing my dashboard atm (clean and warm indoors work ,no heavy lifting!) but Saturday will be the day for attacking the carbs again.
Might even chance a tune-up, although with having all of the gauges un-plugged i'll need to make sure nothing shorts out.
Thanks
Richard