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    Vibration

    Hi Everyone,
    I wonder if anyone else has had this problem.
    My car is an auto with a Reconditioned Borg Warner 65. When I'm driving along I get a vibrating. It doesn't feel like its actually coming from the engine as when I rev up it doesn't make any difference.

    If I put the car in to neutral as its coasting the vibrating goes away. The diff was reconditioned less than 600 miles ago!

    Thanks

    #2
    Propshaft?

    Comment


      #3
      I had a prop shaft vibration which I could feel through the drivers seat. After having it balanced the vibration went away.
      Sujit

      Comment


        #4
        Probably Propshaft was just plonked in without it balanced after Diff rebuilt.

        Check this thread out, a new balanced prop from LD sorted it. After every avenue was exhausted and new stuff fitted, it was the prop.
        https://socforum.com/forum/forum/sta...rted-this-week
        Last edited by singapore stag; 11 March 2022, 02:51.

        Comment


          #5
          Propshaft or torque converter might be worth undoing at the drive plate and moving one hole along and try it not move along one more hole.
          I had the same problem when I fitted my zf4 . Moved along one hole no more problems .
          Until I changed gearbox ( it decided to leak). Unbeknown to me I fitted a duff torque converter That came with the zf4 ( EBay specials).
          That led me down a expensive rabbit hole. I had a Torsion tube propshaft made quite a wait as a shortage of Torsion tube in the country.
          CV driveshafts. new wheels and a few more gearboxes and I rebuilt one new steel and friction plates.plus
          ​​​​Lots of time.
          It took me a bit of time to realise the common factor was I kept fitting the same torque converter from gearbox to gearbox. (A lock up version).
          In one day stooligan ( Paul has a 2 post lift ). and myself fitted 3 different zf4s to my car and run to see if the vibration went.
          As I was driving home 10pm I thought about the days activities and I realised what was the common factor to prove this I fitted my original torque converter.
          Yes vibration was gone.
          I had however purchased yet another for my growing collection ( lockup converter was my goal). Had spigot turned fitted gearbox and torque converter.
          All ok now .
          Last edited by Seaking; 11 March 2022, 09:44.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Seaking View Post
            Propshaft or torque converter might be worth undoing and moving one hole along and try it not move along one more hole. I had the same problem when I fitted my zf4 . Moved along one hole no more problems .
            +1, check that all is tight underneath, prop, gearbox mounts etc, may be as said they put the prop back in a different position?
            "The UK,s 2nd Most Easterly Stag" Quad Exhaust- ZF 4 Speed BOX

            Comment


              #7
              Propshaft or torque converter might be worth undoing and moving one hole along and try it not move along one more hole. I had the same problem when I fitted my zf4 . Moved along one hole no more problems .
              I take it you meant that you moved the torque converter round one more hole?
              Chris

              Comment


                #8
                cotton real mounts on the gearbox cross member caused me issues. new seem to be made from some sort of French cheese. I mount the crossmember to the body using polybush

                Prop on the bw35 has a rubber vibration damper which fails over time and makes the prop impossible to balance. Not so sure that the bw65 has that rubber damper though.

                If your torque converter was not balanced when it was built / refurbished then you have a bigger issue, it will shake the car to pieces. So I am inclined to think that this is not the issue. Besides the TC is solidly attached to the crankshaft via a flex plate, therefore any imbalance would be evident when the car is stationary and the engine is revved. You can rotate the TC one hole but I am inclined to think that is a complete waste of time.

                Propshaft bolt holes are not equidistant so you will need to rotate it 2 bolt holes and not one. Again I would be inclined to get it to a specialist to balance it, what with all the effort of removing silencers etc to get access.

                Unlike the manual gearbox I do not believe that the BW auto boxes have the alignment bolt issue.

                How was the TC / autobox installed? If the TC was fitted to the flexplate and the autobox then offered up it is possible that the autobox input shaft was damaged. This is a depressingly common mistake to make in Rover V8 Range Rover ZF4 installations, hamfisted gibbons wreck gearboxes. Fit the TC into the autobox bellhousing. fit the box to the back of the engine and secure it and then bolt the tc to the flex plate via the starter motor hole.
                Stags and Range Rover Classics - I must be a loony

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by richardthestag View Post
                  If your torque converter was not balanced when it was built / refurbished then you have a bigger issue, it will shake the car to pieces. So I am inclined to think that this is not the issue. Besides the TC is solidly attached to the crankshaft via a flex plate, therefore any imbalance would be evident when the car is stationary and the engine is revved. You can rotate the TC one hole but I am inclined to think that is a complete waste of time.

                  How was the TC / autobox installed? If the TC was fitted to the flexplate and the autobox then offered up it is possible that the autobox input shaft was damaged. This is a depressingly common mistake to make in Rover V8 Range Rover ZF4 installations, hamfisted gibbons wreck gearboxes. Fit the TC into the autobox bellhousing. fit the box to the back of the engine and secure it and then bolt the tc to the flex plate via the starter motor hole.
                  Completely agree with Richard, if the vibration is only there when the vehicle is moving it can't be the converter as that's turning with the engine, however there is no way the input shaft can get damaged fitting the converter. The splines on the input shaft are hardened & you won't damage them. Richards fitting procedure is spot on though - although the P6 OE ROM got it wrong, that said (it I recall correctly) fit the TC to the drive plate followed by the bell housing then fit the trans. Madness! I had an owner call me out on it once when he picked up his rebuilt BW35 for his P6 3.5 & all our paperwork, tags on trans etc. said do not remove TC from from the gearbox to fit it. He wouldn't have it & a 'discussion' followed - he then went & got his ROM from the car & there it was. It was still wrong though, ROM or not!
                  Auto transmission rebuilding since 1979 - for my sins!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Wheelz View Post
                    I take it you meant that you moved the torque converter round one more hole?
                    Yes It is quite obvious Because the propshaft cannot be moved around by one hole!.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Seaking View Post

                      Yes It is quite obvious Because the propshaft cannot be moved around by one hole!.
                      Yes of course, but I would think that it could be fitted two holes round which might be a factor. I think some manuals suggest marking the unions before dismantling.
                      Chris

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Wheelz View Post

                        Yes of course, but I would think that it could be fitted two holes round which might be a factor. I think some manuals suggest marking the unions before dismantling.
                        Well Mr Spain I did say ONE HOLE not TWO HOLES so you have answered your own question. As it is well known that a stag propshaft can only be fitted on to the flange in TWO positions i.e 180 degrees.
                        I will refrain from answering more of your baiting.
                        But I do see that you have redrawn Julian Leyton explanation of the door wiring diagram.





                        Comment

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