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How to replace the fuel tank

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    How to replace the fuel tank

    How to change the fuel tank

    #2
    Repair Operations Manual 19.55.01.
    Dave
    1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

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      #3
      Make sure when you do....not to drop sockets and washers/bolts after most of the fittings done. Done it been there. Its an easy job but the fuel pipe from tank to filler can be a bit fiddly.

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        #4
        Originally posted by singapore stag View Post
        Make sure when you do....not to drop sockets and washers/bolts after most of the fittings done. Done it been there. Its an easy job but the fuel pipe from tank to filler can be a bit fiddly.
        HaHa, dropped the power tag off the fuel pump at the weekend, straight down and under the fuel tank.....
        Leaving it there as a spare.

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          #5
          Originally posted by woodysnr View Post
          How to change the fuel tank
          Having just changed mine last Saturday, here are some tips:
          1. If you have currently have a Mk1 tank, identifiable by a short rubber filler hose and a long metal neck from the tank, and you are fitting a new Mk2 tank, you will need to change the filler hose to a long Mk2 one. Expensive from the usual suspects or £45 from Tony White.
          2. I changed the metal pickup straw going in the tank as the olive had welded itself to the nut which was rounded off anyway.
          3. The metal pickup straw goes in the lower of the two holes on the tank. not as is shown in the Rimmer parts list. This is because inside the tank is a anti sloshing cup and in the middle of it is a small dimple for the straw and this is only aligned with the lower hole.
          4. The filler hose to the tank is really difficult to fit, BUT by using talc on the metal stem and on the inside of the hose etc makes a big difference.
          5. Use the opportunity to change the two piped vents at the same time along with the grommets. Its a complete kit from paddocks.
          6. The new tanks do not have a drain plug in the bottom of them... a blessing I say, so you need to order a 1.5" bung to block the hole.
          It was a straight forward job that took about 1 hour. I did it in 2 stages, remove the tank and find out what parts I need to replace and order.Then the next weekend re-assemble.

          IMG_7099.PNG

          Dave
          Attached Files
          Last edited by Bakdraft007; 27 April 2022, 18:51.

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            #6
            A.remove carpet & boards
            1. Ensure there’s less than 2 gallons.
            2.Photograph the wiring.(for reference ) remove wiring.
            3. Undo the filler pipe & feed pipe.
            4. remove 4 bolts.
            5. lift it out.

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              #7
              Some pics of pipe routing in the Technical Section
              The answer isn't 42, it's 1/137

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                #8
                Thanks guys I have refitted the tank and everything else and all is good. Going to use an additive with the fuel to stop any more rusting Old tank had been reconditioned and was leaking along the weld and looked pretty rusty inside My stag was in good nick when I bought it, but typically things go wrong and some parts are old.

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                  #9
                  I sealed my tank using the slosh product, it was half full of 15 year old fuel and also rusty inside. Looked at a new tank, alloy one would be the way to go, but expensive, then again the steel one had lasted 40 years and stilleak free, so steel acceptable, but reports of poor fitment.
                  Decided slosh would be a good half way mark, keep the tank that fitted, and added a fuel filter just before the pump so I can see if it starts to breakup.
                  Plenty of other Stag things to pay for......

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