Intermittent loss of power - any ideas?

[dasadrew]

To be honest, I looked at a previous thread (I think started by Sujitroy) on this and am not sure whether I have the same problem.

Briefly, a few years back the car started to suddenly and intermittently lose power dramatically - usually when starting to overtake!

After checking all components optically and doing wiggle checks on wiring etc., I took a look at the electronic ignition. I bought this from LD Parts several years back as the "best you can get". (red box sits inside dizzy and black ring underneath the rotor arm - Powerspark) I noticed a lot of black dust and could see that said red and black bits had been rubbing. Bought a new set up (same type) and found I couldn't get the clearance required. Had to elongate the locaton holes on the mounting plate and foumd that the Internet had discovered that problem too.

So, with elongated holes and coorrect gap I was zooming all over the place - did about 1000 miles and all was hunky dory tickety boo ...... until yesterday. Short trip to the local village and a short A Road blast and the power suddenly dropped off. Engne bay was surprisingly hot and the coil (Bosch Red) so hot you couldn't touch it. Jiggled wires, moved coil to a temporary new position on the bulkhead, ran it yesterday evening - all sweet and smooth. This morning, taking wifey to the rail station, the whole loss of power thing started again.

Limped back home, popped an old Lucas coil in and started the engine and all ran smooth - but I'm reluctant to put it to the test in real road conditions now.

Any ideas? Is my coil shot? Can it be that the electronic ignition is junk? (I notice that LD don't sell them anymore - so perhaps they weren't te best available?). Are my symptoms those of a duff coil oor duff electronic ignition? Sometimes the engine just stutters, the rev counter bounces up and down and the power is on-off-on-off; sometimes it's just like running on 4 cylinders. Only plus, is that it starts and idles always like a champ!

Drew

[Phil S]

Electronic components are a pain to trace a fault when you get this, far better when they just fail completely. A road test with the replacement coil is your next step, stay local and have a friend on call ready for a rescue if needed. If the coil is the fix its an easy fix. If it persist then look to the ignition unit.

[Tdafforn]

Generally the electronic ignition itself fails completely when it goes. Your issues sound more like an issue with the HT side of things. I had a random miss on my TR when it was hot, Electronic ignition etc. Turned out it was the new coil I just fitted. Changed for the old one and everything is all good. Had similar with a distributor cap. Hairline crack this time.
tim

[dasadrew]

Hmmmm Dizzie Cap is indeed something I could look into. Would explain why it worked a couple of times after checking the electronic module. I'm running one of those recommended "original" caps (Land Rover?) and a green (LD?) Rotor Arm.

[fussydave]

I had a similar issue. Initially on a trip out after 8 miles the car suddenly cut out and would not restart. Embarrassingly, when the break down service arrived the car started straight away and ran fine, the break down service followed me home to make sure all was OK. However, I suspected the coil was the issue from reading threads on here of similar problems and I replaced it. The car ran fine for a day or two until I was heading to the Stag specialist for some work to be done. On the way there the car started to miss.

While there I asked them to investigate. The miss fire got worse until the point were the car would not start. The coil was found to be fried and was replaced but the car still would not start. However putting a direct feed from the battery on the coil started the car, take the feed away and the engine stopped. Checking the battery it was found to be down to 9 volts. The battery was old yet despite only 9 volts it turned the engine over like a good un! Battery replaced, the car would still only start with a direct feed from the battery to the coil. Finally it was realised the ballast wire to the coil was fried. Coil was replaced and a separate ballast resister fitted. The car started fine but the miss fire was still present, changing plug leads made no difference. Finally, the electronic ignition (Lumenition) was replaced and all was well. The coil was also changed again for a 12 volt non-ballast one. I had no further issues after this.

A long and expensive process to solve the issue but we can only assume that the ballast wire failure caused the coil failures which in turn possibly caused the electronic ignition to fail. The battery issue was a secondary fault that just added to the puzzle.

So I would suggest you check the ballast wire if you have one as this may be breaking down.

Dave.

[DJT]

Re. ballast wire. I had a breakdown a few years ago and, after a lot of puzzling, found that the ballast wire connector to the coil was broken inside the insulation. I remade the termination and normal service was resumed. Last year I had the second breakdown with this car in 14 years. This was an instant engine cut-out after no previous signs of failure. Turned out to be a complete failure of the Bosch Red coil after just under 9,000 miles - 2.1/2 years.

[dasadrew]

Good points (no pun intended!), but I've gone over to non-ballast wiring. The original is there should I need to revert to it.

[richardthestag]

Powerspark failed on me also. as have cheapo caps and rotors. The green rotor I was able to break the peg inside the hole that locates it onto the distributor shaft! thus the rotor position could be anywhere. No idea where that part came from but it was green and made from cheese.

Green box stuff on ebay / through main suppliers I have found to be variable in quality.

Didn't singapore stag recently take yet another right royal kicking for daring to suggest that he had an issue with Bosch red top coil?

Now I only use pertronix and cap / rotor from Distributor Doctor etc etc

[dasadrew]

Powerspark failed on me also. as have cheapo caps and rotors. The green rotor I was able to break the peg inside the hole that locates it onto the distributor shaft! thus the rotor position could be anywhere. No idea where that part came from but it was green and made from cheese.

Green box stuff on ebay / through main suppliers I have found to be variable in quality.

Didn't singapore stag recently take yet another right royal kicking for daring to suggest that he had an issue with Bosch red top coil?

Now I only use pertronix and cap / rotor from Distributor Doctor etc etc

I think you've pinpointed the direction I'll be going. Still have a rotor arm from the doctor which I swapped out for the "best you can buy" green one. Have also got another dizzie cap which was probably ok. Trying to get a price here in Germany for the Pertronix set up as Brexit has made a bit of a mess of getting stuff from UK. Green Box original Lucas I avoid wherever possible.

I wonder if Peter stopped selling the Powerspark on the basis of feedback - at least over setting dwell angles on a twin points dizzie it was a good improvement!

As for the Bosch Red coil I've no idea whether it's good or not; just mentioned it to describe the set-up I'm running. Haven't any problems wih it on the Escort.

[Wheelz]

Last week I did a return trip to Sussex, and back to Surrey, then 2 miles from home broke down for the first time for decades. The breakdown started as an intermittent engine cut which then got worse until it ground to a halt.

Checked fuel pump was still going so assumed it might be electrical. After 20 minutes it restarted, and got me back home.

I have been running the same coil and Accuspark type EI for many years but now suspect it could be one of those, but also could be HT rotor or cap, or king lead.

I have fitted another coil and will keep a spare rotor arm and cap and so will see how it goes.

[dasadrew]

re-assuring in a weird way that I'm not alone with this problem!

[JeffW]

To be honest, I looked at a previous thread (I think started by Sujitroy) on this and am not sure whether I have the same problem.

Briefly, a few years back the car started to suddenly and intermittently lose power dramatically - usually when starting to overtake!

After checking all components optically and doing wiggle checks on wiring etc., I took a look at the electronic ignition. I bought this from LD Parts several years back as the "best you can get". (red box sits inside dizzy and black ring underneath the rotor arm - Powerspark) I noticed a lot of black dust and could see that said red and black bits had been rubbing. Bought a new set up (same type) and found I couldn't get the clearance required. Had to elongate the locaton holes on the mounting plate and foumd that the Internet had discovered that problem too.

So, with elongated holes and coorrect gap I was zooming all over the place - did about 1000 miles and all was hunky dory tickety boo ...... until yesterday. Short trip to the local village and a short A Road blast and the power suddenly dropped off. Engne bay was surprisingly hot and the coil (Bosch Red) so hot you couldn't touch it. Jiggled wires, moved coil to a temporary new position on the bulkhead, ran it yesterday evening - all sweet and smooth. This morning, taking wifey to the rail station, the whole loss of power thing started again.

Limped back home, popped an old Lucas coil in and started the engine and all ran smooth - but I'm reluctant to put it to the test in real road conditions now.

Any ideas? Is my coil shot? Can it be that the electronic ignition is junk? (I notice that LD don't sell them anymore - so perhaps they weren't te best available?). Are my symptoms those of a duff coil oor duff electronic ignition? Sometimes the engine just stutters, the rev counter bounces up and down and the power is on-off-on-off; sometimes it's just like running on 4 cylinders. Only plus, is that it starts and idles always like a champ!

Drew

Hi Drew

I had the same type issues with the green leads - had two wires fail with high resistance in 12 months, which showed as intermittent missing/loss of power usually going up an incline, so switched to Magnecors and never had any issues after that. I also had a Bosch red coil fail and swapped it for a Lucas one that lasted.

I have a new distributor cap that I can pop in the post to you if you want to try and swap that.

Jeff

[richardthestag]

Pertronix is a USA company, it may be cheaper to buy at source. just saying Drew. or get it deliered to a friendly uk based agent and collect next time you are here

[Wheelz]

Hi Drew

I had the same type issues with the green leads
Jeff

I am still running on the old PVC green leads, err, I think maybe I need to renew these for a silicone set.

[JeffW]

I am still running on the old PVC green leads, err, I think maybe I need to renew these for a silicone set.

I was surprised (as were others) that two sets from reputable suppliers failed and I was tired of the misfires and loss of power!