Exhaust Manifold Removal - Ceramic Coating

[Woolly]

I have a 1976 Stag with stainless steel tubular exhaust manifolds and have read the article in this month magazine regarding ceramic coating (Nice articulated Roland Thanks) in fact I had read something on the subject elsewhere not related to Stags and thought it might be a worthwhile mod.

I can use spanner’s but am not a mechanic. In fact when I fit some new part or mod the simple job turns into several more complicated jobs but that might be because the car is 46 years old and so needs a bit more finesse or perhaps I don’t give myself enought time, rather it was on the road than in the garage.

So my question, how difficult is it to remove and refit both sets of exhaust manifolds and then refit. How would you categorise the level of skilll needed, Novice, Skilled armature or professional. I would fall in the sub category of slightly skilled novice.

And if I am Leaving it to a specialist classic garage what do you think the labour time would be to remove and re-fit???

Many thanks

Tim

[jbuckl]

Quality Slimline tools help to do stag manifolds.
1/4” or 3/8” drive.

[DJT]

Removing and refitting stainless tubular manifolds with the engine in situ is not for the faint hearted. I fitted mine back in 2014 when the heads were removed for gasket replacement. A year or so later one of the RH exhaust manifold gaskets failed and it was a real struggle to fit new ones. I use my car regularly - over 3,500 miles per year and really do not see the need to have them ceramic coated. I have no issues with under bonnet heat, paint damage, wiring damage, fuel vaporisation, etc.

[Woolly]

Quality Slimline tools help to do stag manifolds.
1/4” or 3/8” drive.

Got those but perhaps not the required skill level….

[DMT]

I had my MGB (V8) tubular headers ceramic coated inside and out by a company in Warrington.

It worked a treat but the extra heat removed from the engine bay got the rear pipes very hot!!

Dave

[mole42]

I use my car regularly - over 3,500 miles per year and really do not see the need to have them ceramic coated. I have no issues with under bonnet heat, paint damage, wiring damage, fuel vaporisation, etc.

I agree, no problems with heat damage etc. My car does a about 10,000 miles a year

[Woolly]

Removing and refitting stainless tubular manifolds with the engine in situ is not for the faint hearted. I fitted mine back in 2014 when the heads were removed for gasket replacement. A year or so later one of the RH exhaust manifold gaskets failed and it was a real struggle to fit new ones. I use my car regularly - over 3,500 miles per year and really do not see the need to have them ceramic coated. I have no issues with under bonnet heat, paint damage, wiring damage, fuel vaporisation, etc.

My trouble is I read to much and it becomes a case of ‘Got to have that!’ Ceramic coating might not be absolutely necessary but you have to concede that any form of heat reduction is a benefit. My needle never goes beyond 12 o’clock and I have a standard rad, no header tank but a kenlow fan. Although on a long drive, and I do a few, in the summer my left leg can get close to burnt!!!. If it was an easy DIY job or an economic cost with a garage then I would be doing it, but perhaps not.

[DJT]

but you have to concede that any form of heat reduction is a benefit.

Although on a long drive, and I do a few, in the summer my left leg can get close to burnt!!!.

No, I do not think reduction in heat is necessary. I run an 88-degree thermostat and good OE viscous coupling fan. My Kenlowe never comes on, even in stationary traffic on a hot day.

If your leg is getting hot, try closing the heater flap. RH vertical slider beside the ash tray. Push it up to OFF.

[DMT]

I must admit I get heat problems when I drive 4 miles to the shop and stop for 15 mins. The engine in not up to temperature but the headers are hot.

My solution is to run the fan on a timer for 3 mins when I stop, this seems to cool the pipes down and she starts OK.

[wilf]

As Dave said, if you stop the headers from emitting heat in the engine bay, all you do is move that heat further down the exhaust system - so your handbrake will get even hotter!

If you think about it Tim, every single Stag ever made did NOT have ceramic-coated headers, and mostly that caused no issues. (I say mostly, becuase there will always be cars that suffer from fuel vaporisation from heat soak for whatever reason). So maybe you are seeking a solution to a problem that does not exist as you say your car runs well without problems?

DMT beat me to it about your roasted leg, lol.

[Wheelz]

I would put a header tank as priority before s/s manifolds or any ceramic coating!

[KOY 23]

Tubular manifolds are a nightmare to fit with the heads on, highly likely to damage ceramic coating.
Easy with heads off or engine out, but that’s another potential nightmare.

[Woolly]

I read/watch stuff. I have dreams and then they are squashed....

Thanks all, I think I will pass on picking up this interesting modification. And continue with a burt leg. No I can close the heater flap! Thanks for the insight DJT

[richardthestag]

Do you have a great big hole in your transmission tunnel that is allowing excess heat from the RH exhaust downpipe through? If not then chances are that it is just the feed and return pipe for the heater that is keeping you unnecessarily hot.

The heater shut off valve is, dare I say it, a bit crap and can easily fail thus leaving the heater valve open and thus passing hot coolant near to where your left ankle is. I recon concentrate on fixing that which can be a bit of an arse.

You can see the valve with the control wire attached to it in your drivers footwell on the side of the heater unit and right up near the bulkhead, find it and then pull the lever hot to cold on the heater control, does it rotate the valve? chances are high that it is seized and the cable has popped out.

Or you could fit a header tank

[dasadrew]

I would put a header tank as priority before s/s manifolds or any ceramic coating!

Looks like I screwed up then - got coated manifolds but no header tank! (Can't quite see the connection between the two,other than what to spend your money on first. I screwed up again there because I bought a Nav System - again before getting a header tank)

I must admit to having spent €32,000 on the resto and still no header tank ......

Drew