A newbie's 6 month saga of modifications that seemed a good idea at the time.
Hi Folks. I have listed the mods I have carried out over the past 6 months just to give my slant on the results. I hope they might be of some help to people thinking of carrying them out, or not. My plan was to keep the car looking original from outside but fit any upgrade changes that seemed a good idea. (Well to me anyway)
I have been a mechanical/electrical engineer for 40 years but am not skilled at anything, so if I can do it anyone can.
I am trying to give a personal opinion on the mods, and am not affiliated with any companies supplying / manufacturing the equipment.
Mods carried out:-
LED bulbs fitted all round.
Original Stag Rear Light Dim Relay removed from the LHS rear inner wing.
All 4 headlights fitted with Main/Dip LEDs. Switch on dash to remove centre 2 Dip’s for town driving if necessary. (All run from relay box in fused pairs.) Good light pattern and nice and bright. Not been flashed at yet!
Reverse LEDs also used as fog lights and brake lights. If reversing lights stay white whether braking or fog lights on, if not reversing, lights show red as extra brake lights or fog lights if fog switch is on.
All dash illumination blue LEDs, very easy to read. Indicators and interior lighting now much brighter and pulling less current
LHD Wiper and Lights stalks.
Not very easy to fit as the steering column needs to be stripped to get the looms re-fitted down the centre. Only had to reposition 1 pin on the two multi connectors. Now controls are same orientation as modern cars. Expensive mod but I now don’t indicate to clean the screen.
Secret Spoiler and Radiator Cowl.
Easy to fit. I am not sure how much if any the improvement was, as I have never had any cooling issues with only a limited number of short trips, but they seemed to be based on sound engineering, and hopefully decrease the likelihood of overheating.
Electric Fan, with manually set timed run, to reduce heat soak, and fitted Stagdad external water pump. Change alternator to an 80A version, (fitted on LHS). Original fan kept.
Fan set to run when coolant increases above normal temp, or when 3 min heat soak cycle initiated with dash push button.
Stagdad’s external pump fitted. Time was needed to get hoses cut to length, but the instructions were good, and it fitted well. Not much clearance between various drive belts. (don’t run the engine up to temperature with lower pipe clip loose, I did, and the garage floor is nice and clean now). Found that the fan was hitting the end of the water pump. The original blades were flexible and slightly distorted, Bought new blades from SOC Spares. Very happy, blades were very stiff and well made, meaning I did not need to offset the blades to get the clearance, but a pain to fit as I have the cowling around the rad and the cooling fan brackets located on the rad.
Alternator repositioned to LHS, using Stagdad’s alternator bracket. The original alternator fits perfectly, but with Ward’s 80A slightly larger version, the bracket needs a small adjustment to one slot. I had to try a few different belts (chose PIX SPZ 1112) to get best gap between alternator, header tank and inner wing. Now at least 20mm clearance.
Very happy with all three additions. I chose to change the alternator mainly to ensure I had a top-quality manufacturer and decided the extra cost to up to 80A version was worth it. The drop in load from fitting the LEDs was offset by the extra electric fan load. I now have enough capacity to add a 12VDC – 240VAC inverter, heated seats or hair dryer for the wife.
Since at last getting the car on the road I have not had problems re-starting after letting the fan fun for the 3 mins except for the only time I did not use the fan. (possibly a win!! Time will tell)
Added an extra Stagweber Header Tank float switch.
Added 2nd inverted (fail safe) coolantlevel switch (set higher) in series with original, as original switch when inverted can stay on with residual coolant in an empty tank. Turning on ignition gives 3 sec illumination of the warning light (to check bulb) and if coolant level is good, light goes off. A very quick firing of either level switch gives a min of 3 sec bulb indication, (no flickering). Works great. Low water indication LED and clock fitted in place of the ashtray.
2nd bonnet handle on drivers’ side with integral switch to isolate inner dip headlights for town driving and push button to start fan for carb cooling after turning engine off.
Copied from SOC member, handle works great. Push button (fitted to new bonnet pull bracket) to run fan for 3 min after engine off, to reduce heat-soak and it works great. I also added a switch to the same bracket to isolate centre dip headlamps when needed in town driving.
Active Breather System. (Weber carb fitting seemed to have increased oil leaks.)
Now instead of +ve cam cover pressure I get a good -ve.
System fitted easily. Played with catch tank to carb hose path to make it neat. Oil leaks seem to have reduced. Time will tell if they disappear. Unit does buzz a bit, but not noticeable with the bonnet closed.
Pressure Regulator & Filter in Boot.
Went in neatly. Set up regulator so pressure at carb is 2 psi. Fuel pipe from bulkhead to carb covered with insulated hose to help reduce fuel heating. All rubber fuel hoses in boot replaced to ensure no problems with E10 fuel.
Adjustable Wiper Delay Unit.
Worked very well. Now I don’t need to use wiper stalk unless its heavy rain.
A bit fiddly to fit solely due to me preferring to solder not fit clip/push fittings and lying under the dash is an awkward place to use a 100W soldering iron. 6 position speed selector switch (1,2,4,8 & 12 secs) fitted nicely in place of the unused dash lights dimming pot. Switch works the delayed wipers only when the wipers are turned off.
New Battery, battery isolator switch (for security), and replaced both +ve and -ve battery cables.
Fitted Yuasa Silver 5000 battery and bespoke braided earth cable so I can choose the path and location I need. Positive cable fitted with bolted in-line junction block instead of spade connection version to ensure better connections and a relay unit on the starter motor to put starting load through a relay rather than the ignition system. Starter motor left alone as it worked perfectly, and I did not want the whine of the up-rated versions.
Battery has had a hard life with me multi-starting and running lights etc for 6 months or more with only very few short journeys with no starting issues, but the green healthy indicator is not lighting. May need to replace under 5-year warranty.
Rebuilt Steering Rack.
My rack had started to leak at the threaded barrel location, and I decided as it was mechanically working fine I would just get it rebuilt. Sent it off to one of our recommended rebuilders, but on receiving it back found it was not mine that had been rebuilt. I was not very happy but decided to fit it and see what happens. So far, the rack has worked fine.
Fitted new Aluminium Fuel Tank and calibrated the fuel level system.
Tank needed a 6mm spacer on one location tab to get stable, but the tank was nice and level. Fitted new level sensor and set up the float position to turn the low fuel light on when 9 litres are left and marked the fuel gauge indications from 5 up to 60 litres. Used water instead of fuel up to just under the sender unit, then blanked off the sender hole to go up to full. Internal baffles do reduce flickering of low fuel light but it still does flicker so a delay unit will need to be fitted.
Then after lunch took a nap.
Dave
I have been a mechanical/electrical engineer for 40 years but am not skilled at anything, so if I can do it anyone can.
I am trying to give a personal opinion on the mods, and am not affiliated with any companies supplying / manufacturing the equipment.
Mods carried out:-
LED bulbs fitted all round.
Original Stag Rear Light Dim Relay removed from the LHS rear inner wing.
All 4 headlights fitted with Main/Dip LEDs. Switch on dash to remove centre 2 Dip’s for town driving if necessary. (All run from relay box in fused pairs.) Good light pattern and nice and bright. Not been flashed at yet!
Reverse LEDs also used as fog lights and brake lights. If reversing lights stay white whether braking or fog lights on, if not reversing, lights show red as extra brake lights or fog lights if fog switch is on.
All dash illumination blue LEDs, very easy to read. Indicators and interior lighting now much brighter and pulling less current
LHD Wiper and Lights stalks.
Not very easy to fit as the steering column needs to be stripped to get the looms re-fitted down the centre. Only had to reposition 1 pin on the two multi connectors. Now controls are same orientation as modern cars. Expensive mod but I now don’t indicate to clean the screen.
Secret Spoiler and Radiator Cowl.
Easy to fit. I am not sure how much if any the improvement was, as I have never had any cooling issues with only a limited number of short trips, but they seemed to be based on sound engineering, and hopefully decrease the likelihood of overheating.
Electric Fan, with manually set timed run, to reduce heat soak, and fitted Stagdad external water pump. Change alternator to an 80A version, (fitted on LHS). Original fan kept.
Fan set to run when coolant increases above normal temp, or when 3 min heat soak cycle initiated with dash push button.
Stagdad’s external pump fitted. Time was needed to get hoses cut to length, but the instructions were good, and it fitted well. Not much clearance between various drive belts. (don’t run the engine up to temperature with lower pipe clip loose, I did, and the garage floor is nice and clean now). Found that the fan was hitting the end of the water pump. The original blades were flexible and slightly distorted, Bought new blades from SOC Spares. Very happy, blades were very stiff and well made, meaning I did not need to offset the blades to get the clearance, but a pain to fit as I have the cowling around the rad and the cooling fan brackets located on the rad.
Alternator repositioned to LHS, using Stagdad’s alternator bracket. The original alternator fits perfectly, but with Ward’s 80A slightly larger version, the bracket needs a small adjustment to one slot. I had to try a few different belts (chose PIX SPZ 1112) to get best gap between alternator, header tank and inner wing. Now at least 20mm clearance.
Very happy with all three additions. I chose to change the alternator mainly to ensure I had a top-quality manufacturer and decided the extra cost to up to 80A version was worth it. The drop in load from fitting the LEDs was offset by the extra electric fan load. I now have enough capacity to add a 12VDC – 240VAC inverter, heated seats or hair dryer for the wife.
Since at last getting the car on the road I have not had problems re-starting after letting the fan fun for the 3 mins except for the only time I did not use the fan. (possibly a win!! Time will tell)
Added an extra Stagweber Header Tank float switch.
Added 2nd inverted (fail safe) coolantlevel switch (set higher) in series with original, as original switch when inverted can stay on with residual coolant in an empty tank. Turning on ignition gives 3 sec illumination of the warning light (to check bulb) and if coolant level is good, light goes off. A very quick firing of either level switch gives a min of 3 sec bulb indication, (no flickering). Works great. Low water indication LED and clock fitted in place of the ashtray.
2nd bonnet handle on drivers’ side with integral switch to isolate inner dip headlights for town driving and push button to start fan for carb cooling after turning engine off.
Copied from SOC member, handle works great. Push button (fitted to new bonnet pull bracket) to run fan for 3 min after engine off, to reduce heat-soak and it works great. I also added a switch to the same bracket to isolate centre dip headlamps when needed in town driving.
Active Breather System. (Weber carb fitting seemed to have increased oil leaks.)
Now instead of +ve cam cover pressure I get a good -ve.
System fitted easily. Played with catch tank to carb hose path to make it neat. Oil leaks seem to have reduced. Time will tell if they disappear. Unit does buzz a bit, but not noticeable with the bonnet closed.
Pressure Regulator & Filter in Boot.
Went in neatly. Set up regulator so pressure at carb is 2 psi. Fuel pipe from bulkhead to carb covered with insulated hose to help reduce fuel heating. All rubber fuel hoses in boot replaced to ensure no problems with E10 fuel.
Adjustable Wiper Delay Unit.
Worked very well. Now I don’t need to use wiper stalk unless its heavy rain.
A bit fiddly to fit solely due to me preferring to solder not fit clip/push fittings and lying under the dash is an awkward place to use a 100W soldering iron. 6 position speed selector switch (1,2,4,8 & 12 secs) fitted nicely in place of the unused dash lights dimming pot. Switch works the delayed wipers only when the wipers are turned off.
New Battery, battery isolator switch (for security), and replaced both +ve and -ve battery cables.
Fitted Yuasa Silver 5000 battery and bespoke braided earth cable so I can choose the path and location I need. Positive cable fitted with bolted in-line junction block instead of spade connection version to ensure better connections and a relay unit on the starter motor to put starting load through a relay rather than the ignition system. Starter motor left alone as it worked perfectly, and I did not want the whine of the up-rated versions.
Battery has had a hard life with me multi-starting and running lights etc for 6 months or more with only very few short journeys with no starting issues, but the green healthy indicator is not lighting. May need to replace under 5-year warranty.
Rebuilt Steering Rack.
My rack had started to leak at the threaded barrel location, and I decided as it was mechanically working fine I would just get it rebuilt. Sent it off to one of our recommended rebuilders, but on receiving it back found it was not mine that had been rebuilt. I was not very happy but decided to fit it and see what happens. So far, the rack has worked fine.
Fitted new Aluminium Fuel Tank and calibrated the fuel level system.
Tank needed a 6mm spacer on one location tab to get stable, but the tank was nice and level. Fitted new level sensor and set up the float position to turn the low fuel light on when 9 litres are left and marked the fuel gauge indications from 5 up to 60 litres. Used water instead of fuel up to just under the sender unit, then blanked off the sender hole to go up to full. Internal baffles do reduce flickering of low fuel light but it still does flicker so a delay unit will need to be fitted.
Then after lunch took a nap.
Dave
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