After replacing the new coupling and fitting the parts back together including the cowl I checked it for turning etc,.I drove around the block and back and everything was good.I then went for a road test and heard what was like running over a plastic bottle then the temp started to go up and my electric pusher fan kicked in so I drove back to the house. The main fan had broken in bits all but one blade.I may have caught the cowl but I have no witness marks as such. The fan pulley and viscous coupling was always close to the radiator but now I am looking at it an wondering if the dampner assembly and pulley need to be moved back towards the engine. See picture is this the usual position for this component.If you look at the dampner you can see a gap behind the sleeve I am wondering it this would be further back I did torque up the bolt.
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Last edited by elvimto; 23 May 2022, 17:21. -
The bit of the crank pulley that goes onto the crank and through the timing cover looks normal to me.Stags and Range Rover Classics - I must be a loony -
From what I can see the dampner has a sleeve on it and my parts book April 1978 does show a shoulder on the crank but you can see a gap and I do not think the sleeve on the dampner would go back that far and into the seal area. I guess you install the dampner and pulley assembly you push it on until the pulley line up with the power steering and alternator pulleys.Last edited by elvimto; 23 May 2022, 19:43.Comment
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I compared with another owner and the dampner and power steering pulley are in the correct place and I also believe what happened is the fan flexed and caught the cowl, I made a bushing which incorporates the washer and eliminates part # 155516 also part # 159153 is not used. I posted the lower cowl the straight part was where the fan caught and broke the other is the bushing I made.Comment
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Could be the new coupling drove the old fan faster than it was used to. When I changed mine I fitted a new fan, as the old one was so tatty, so may have dodged that bullet. I am pretty sure the difference between the old and new couplings was large enough to result in a significant increase in fan rpm.Header tanks - you can't beat a bit of bling.Comment
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I do think that was a factor I did not have a new viscous coupling to compare but when I did get the new one you could feel the difference. With the new coupling installed the fan flexed forward and one blade was stuck between the cowl and the radiator...Originally posted by wilf View PostComment
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There were a lot of new fans being sold a while back which were too flexible. Match them up with a good VC and say goodbye to your radiator. I know of a few victims; one of whom lost a nearly new aluminium rad.Originally posted by elvimto View PostDave
1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.Comment
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The fan was and old fan fitted before 2000 by the PO from a conversion kit all was good, the temp issue at idle in stop lights it would start to creep up so I fitted a pusher and drove it with the old VC and the cowl set I bought then I realized the VC was slowing at idle so I replaced it then disaster struck you can see the lower cowl picture I posted earlier that is where the blades hit in fact one of them I had to cut as it was stuck behind that flat piece and the radiator...I just put it all back together yesterday minus the cowl the temp still creeps a bit but I have the pusher fan as an assist. The cowl did help but for now I am leaving it off. My temp runs between 180/185 normal. The setting of the electric fan is in 10 degree steps so the the setting I will need to use is on at 195 off at 185 I also have a manual override switch. 195 seems just a bit hot for my liking but the other setting is on at 190 off at 180 so the fan would be running all the time which is not needed. The temp sender is in the top hose return to the radiator and is in the coolant flow. I think I should be ok with this set up the other normal temp gauges senders are in the rear heads they sit in the middle. What do you think?Originally posted by DJT View PostComment
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I aim to run my engine in the early 90's C (195 - 198 in old F degrees). I'm using a Davies Craig electric pump with a controller that switches the fan. No VC fan. The temp sensor is in the top hose too and seems to be ~8C (14.4F) lower that my capiliary gauge where the sender is in the usual position at the back of the left hand head. Need to consider possible errors between the 2 sensors.
Suggest you see what setting works best for you as observed on your Temp gauge.White 1976 build ("Mk2") only a few modsComment
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The Mk1 fan blades were wider and thinner, and on one of my cars the blades had bent into a curve towards the radiator. I straightened them with a heat gun which at the time seemed to remove the risk of hitting the rad, but I think the Mk2 blades are much more robust.
Chris
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+1 The mk1 plastic fan is awful. Looks ready to break.Originally posted by Wheelz View Post
Was offered a new mk2 plastic fan for a low price, it did seem too flexible though.
if the fan runs at very high speed due to incorrect assembly or seized viscous bearing, it can explode.
if a replacement radiator core is fitted, together with new mounting brackets, the fan can catch the radiator, as the accuracy & location of the radiator can have been altered.
if the engine mounts are worn / incorrectly assembled the fan can catch the radiatorLast edited by jbuckl; 28 May 2022, 10:48.Comment
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After giving it a rest for a bit I refitted my cowl and I cut the lower section that was a flat area which was in the front of the fan and blocked entry to the blades but since I had the small metal guard i used that. I had numerous attempts and ended up filling the blade tips and backs and removing one of the captive nuts. The fan which is a MK 2 conversion would clear turning by hand but when I ran it a small hitting could still be heard so back to stage one. After two days of fitting I have a fn that works with the cowl in place. I also have the electric pusher fan up and working on auto which comes in at 190 F the car runs between 182 F and 187F which seems to be the sweet spot. The electric pusher would cut off at 180 F but the next setting would be higher so I am leaving it where it is for now I also have the manual on/off switch. I think I have this one done and dusted. My next job is giving consideration to re installing the a/c system a fellow owner in Florida has sent me a fantastic write up and a list of parts where he has completed his system and is up and running. Just reread your comment JBUCK re the engine mounts I replaced them sometime around 2010 I was also thinking about the dampner since mine is 50 years old what do you think?Comment
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There's a guy on the west coast that can redo your balancer. I'll dig it out and post later this morning.
SujitComment
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Thanks I still have mine on the car just a thought I could buy one and send it to them don't know if I could face removing the radiator and all the stuff right now. I just started looking at possibly re installing a/c I tested an evaporator and found a small leak might be able to solder it. I might pull the heater element assembly out of the car and go through it. Did you have work done by him? it says he has done one. Stuart
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