Hi all. The previous owner and restorer of my Stag recommended getting the car wax oyled. The underside part of the car has recently been repainted and is in good condition so I’m reluctant to cover the paint up with the waxoyl finish. Having done some research I’ve seen that Dynax do a clear anti corrosion product. Has anyone had any experience of using Dynax? For the “unseen”internal cavities as well as the visible underside of the car? Any thoughts most welcome. Thank you.
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It is a very interesting question. Rust is the Stag killer and mine has been sat in biblical proportion thunderstorms for the last 24 hours!
My car had some body work done at Wards a couple of years back and they spray an amber waxy non-drying substance over everything. Even high up on the inside of the rear wings. I think some of it is to disguise the welds, and I do hate the stuff. Any access to those parts and you get covered in the goo. It is all over the wiring and most components on the underside of the car also. Having said that, Wards do know their stuff so it will probably do a good job against rust. Just a problem if you need access to those parts of your car. Does anyone know what they use? I think Dynax is a similar waxy coating
When I first wax-oyled my Stag about 40 years ago, I only applied it to the inside of box sections, sills, and the seams, particularly those between inner and outer wings. Those get pounded with water and grit. There is no point in my view to coating the high-up portions of inner wings. Those sections never rust from the cars I have seen. One exception is the underside of the boot-lid which is prone to condensation. Don't put too much in as it then drops out onto your other half's precious luggage. Not good.
On the underside of the car I would prefer a drying shock-absorbant finish such as an underseal. Something that you can jet-wash clean. Non-drying waxy or oily finishes just attract dust and dirt which ends up holding moisture itself.
Sorry I haven't helped much, but I too would be interested in recommendations. I just have to clean the current cr*p off first!
MikeLast edited by MikeParker; 14 August 2022, 17:25. -
I used Dynax in my sills following recommendations on here, it was brown in colour. The lance made application very easy,
so easy that I used far too much. I've no idea how effective it will be only time will tell.
Steve.SteveD
White 1972 2nd Sanction TV8 BW35 Wire WheelsComment
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I have given up using anything but oil in the cavities. It gets everywhere and soaks through all the seams, makes a bit of a mess but if it is still wicking out then you know its working. About 7 years ago I applied some sort of internal wax type product that came very highly recommended in the classic car press (can't remember which one now), but the bottom seams of one of my K reg stag doors are showing signs of swelling and I had to do some weld repairs to the other door a couple of years ago after blisters started appearing at the bottom. Doesn't matter what they claim, it never wicks into cracks as well as oil, and even if it does it dries out after a few years and the rust creeps in again. I only hope the wax is permeable to oil as I have squirted it into all the sills doors, wings and door pillars after the door skin disappointment
I have been seriously underwhelmed with every box section treatent I have used with the exception of oil. Used only oil on my TR 30 years ago, and it gets the odd top up squirt now and again. Only ever had rust problems on the odd bit I had forgotten to do, the door bottoms are as good now as when I built it 30 years ago. Door bottoms on the estate I have just sold were also perfect after 11 years on the road, same for my Toledo after 20 years.
Underneath the cars I used waxoil underseal for many years but it requires regular touch ups.
On my K reg Stag I used schutz which seems to be holding up better than waxoil, some of the lower impact areas I overpainted. I have had good results with Rustbusters 121 epoxy on the chassis of my TR so I have tried spraying the underside of my Toledo with that
Trouble is with any product you really need 10-15 years of use to know if its any good
NeilNeil
TV8, efi, fast road cams and home built manifolds. 246bhp 220lbft torqueComment
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Castrol rustilo ( £100 ish / 20 l) has worked well for mine in box sections. Don’t know if that’s still available… but it was an oem protector for long shelf life of steel / iron parts.
I found rust protectors aimed at classic car owners supplied by most car retailers were poor… waxyoyl type products…. Seem to give a feel good factor, but upon inspection… actually don’t provide long term protection…. 5 years max.
Whilst some like a body colour underside, I went for a 3M shultz which has held up well… it’s not soft but it’s not really hard either… but it is black.
Has anyone used lanoguard? … sounds like it’s the new kid on the block for under neath rust protection… much dearer than Castrol rustilo though.
Castrol Rustilo
https://www.zoro.co.uk/shop/lubrican...SABEgIjefD_BwE
Or this
Lanoguard
https://www.lanoguard.co.uk/products...SABEgJ-SPD_BwELast edited by jbuckl; 14 August 2022, 23:13.Comment
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Thank you! Really grateful to you.Comment
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