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    Distributor fitting instructions?

    Now then, as you may know my distributor had snapped and the timing was not...should we say accurate..ahem..I have set Number 2 to TDC having removed all the plugs, I am awaiting a distributor but would appreciate a set of instructions as to the fitting and timing of same all help much appreciated

    #2
    This is how I do it.

    Rotor arm on, put dissy into drive slot so that the rotor arm points to the fixing bolt (or the hole if you have moved the coil-still connected, for access) for the coil (this may take a few goes as the drive engages and may be a tooth out and doesn't line up-just pull it out rotate the body a bit the way you need to and re-insert. Loosely bolt the dissy into place but tight enough so it cant move on its own but you can move it.

    Dissy cap on with no 2 lead nearest to the right of the rotor arm and make sure leads are connected in firing order sequence. Make sure you have battery connected and try to fire her up. Every time I have done it this way, it has been close enough to fire up.

    Use timing light (i have one with a dial so I can set 13 to read zero on the marks on the pulley) to get timing to best running mark (usually somewhere around 13/14 deg btdc) by moving dissy - you will quickly work out the right direction (move it by the advance module to avoid any rogue electrics).

    If you run out of adjustment before you get it to your best running setting (say it stops at 9 degrees) stop engine take dissy out and move it round a tooth. Tighten dissy bolts and replace coil if moved.

    It's not a difficult job but people often have the leads the wrong way round or in the wrong order which scuppers the whole thing. I've also seen people trying to time the engine when no2 wasn't actually at TDC, but they thought it was because the piston was at the top, I put my finger over the plug hole to make sure it's on the compression stroke - you will feel the pressure build up.

    Good luck
    Last edited by Goldstar; 24 August 2022, 16:51. Reason: spooling misteks
    Paul - 3 projects, 1 breaker - garage built and housing 2 white Stags. One runs, one doesn't

    Comment


      #3
      I can't recall but isn't there a situation where no. 2 piston is at TDC, but the rotor will be off by 180 degrees, or something like that? I think I looked at the mark on the cam to make sure.
      Sujit

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by sujitroy View Post
        I can't recall but isn't there a situation where no. 2 piston is at TDC, but the rotor will be off by 180 degrees, or something like that? I think I looked at the mark on the cam to make sure.
        Sujit
        Yes when the piston is not on the compression stroke hence finger over no2 plug hole to feel the pressure build up
        Paul - 3 projects, 1 breaker - garage built and housing 2 white Stags. One runs, one doesn't

        Comment


          #5
          OMG ! Does that mean the Stag engine isn't 2-Stroke?
          The answer isn't 42, it's 1/137

          Comment


            #6
            +1 for Pauls method, but another way ensure no.2 is on compression is as follows:-
            To ensure no.2 is on TDC COMPRESSION not exhaust, its possible to see the R.H. cam alignment mark via the oil filler cap... may need to use a torch.
            Its best to turn the engine back say 20 degrees, then forwards to 12 degrees to have a statically timed ignition.
            Last edited by jbuckl; 24 August 2022, 18:44.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by dasadrew View Post
              OMG ! Does that mean the Stag engine isn't 2-Stroke?
              2-stroke v8, now that sounds fun
              Stags and Range Rover Classics - I must be a loony

              Comment


                #8
                I think Foden have already done that years ago

                Comment


                  #9
                  But keep in mind that it seems common that the jack shaft was installed slightly out so sometimes you will find #2 shifted in the dizzy cap by one way or the other.. A whole other can of worms..
                  Terry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware

                  www.terryhunt.co.uk

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by trunt View Post
                    But keep in mind that it seems common that the jack shaft was installed slightly out so sometimes you will find #2 shifted in the dizzy cap by one way or the other.. A whole other can of worms..
                    Who doesn’t like compounding errors to really make you scratch your head
                    Paul - 3 projects, 1 breaker - garage built and housing 2 white Stags. One runs, one doesn't

                    Comment


                      #11
                      i have completed the procedeure but something isnt quite right the car is reluctant to start, and not got the best tickover, have i made a basic schoolboy error?

                      Comment


                        #12
                        We probably need more info..

                        Did you take the leads off the cap? Check that they are correct and recheck your leads are correct to the plugs. Did you get the timing light on it yet? If so do you have full adjustment or is it at one end or the other of the adjustment..
                        Terry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware

                        www.terryhunt.co.uk

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Check ht cable order, as truant ( auto correct!) says

                          Comment


                            #14
                            If it runs but doesn't start easily I am going to take a complete guess that the ignition timing is out.

                            I ignore the ROM - install distributor when #2 is at TDC and the crank pulley marker is TDC

                            Drop the distributor in so that when fully home the rotor points towards the nearest coil mount bolt and not the furthest!!! This is the bit that I recall being wrong in the ROM.

                            When the distributor is in the rotor will be pointing to the #2 plug lead position on the cap, and more importantly the distributor mount to the engine block bolt will be mid way between the two ends of the mounting slot

                            This way you stand a half decent chance of getting the ignition timing right
                            Stags and Range Rover Classics - I must be a loony

                            Comment


                              #15
                              OK, I did do it to point the rotor at the furthest as previously advised and although it started, it became a most reluctant starter, with indifferent tickover so I will replace the distributor as you suggest, having done so, I am assuming that I set my adjustable strobe light to 12 degrees...(is 14 better?) and fire the car up...(tickover or higher revs?) to do a final adjustment?

                              Comment

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