New (to me!!) strip down started. Advice sought.

[Guest]

Well into pulling bits off the Stag and so far so good with nothing falling off that shouldn't. Just dropped the diff since there is a leak from the front, altough it may also be the front extension leaking. I intend to do all the seals whilst the thing is accessible, except the side flanges which are dry. Then it will be onwards and upwords to the transmission which may have a front seal leak, or is it engine oil from the sump, or both? I'm used to Dexron type trans fluid where the colour is a clue and often diesels where the engine oil is
black. Not the case with our Stags of course. Any tips on going about fitting new seals and any of the above appreciated. I think I read that the front pinion seal is insufficient and one needs to apply additional sealant to the mating faces. Our testers here are very critical of leaks due to the huge motorcycling population/visitor numbers, so a bit of a challenge ahead.

Finally, I felt one of the circular inspection (?) holes in the floor was barely held in and pulled it out. No rot, but it seems that only the floor coating of paint was holding it in. What are these for? Would tack welding and seam sealant be sufficient to meet the ex factory spec?

Gratefull for all tips.

Malcolm

[new to this]

I would just stick them back in position with seam sealer or silicon, that way they would be easy to remove if you get water inside the car

Dave

[NeilR]

There is no seal in the diff nose extension, only a sealed bearing.

If the diff front oil seal is bad enough to cause oil drip from the extension (by the propshaft flange), then it has
got through the sealed bearing and washed the grease out, so change that bearing for a reputable make variety.

[sujitroy]

Change the side flange seals on the diff. but beware you will most likely need a 20-50 ton press to separate them. I have a few YouTube videos on when I did my diff.
Sujit

[Guest]

Thanks guys. All noted. Sujit - are you saying change the side flange seals even though the area is dry?

Malcolm

[sujitroy]

they will eventually leak. as you have it out. may as well do it.

[trunt]

Change the side flange seals on the diff. but beware you will most likely need a 20-50 ton press to separate them. I have a few YouTube videos on when I did my diff.
Sujit

Maybe luck but I have separated 6 now (3 pairs) by bolting them up back to back and tightening the bolts evenly. one gave, the other pulled off with a 3 leg puller every time!

[022Dave]

Malcolm,

Whilst the diff is out, check that its nose extension has been reinforced. They are prone to cracking, which can leak oil, before It lets go in dramatic fashion. Plenty of pictures on here how to do it, if it hasn't been done.

Dave

[wilf]

If you have the diff out, are you fitting a strengthened nose piece? Like this: http://ldpart.co.uk/shop/shop.php?c=...adb8475945e0e0

Also, get the very best quality bearing you can - see LD parts for those.

[Guest]

Thanks again everyone for these latest pointers. Yes, I will be welding strengtheners to the extension, although there is no visible sign of cracking. Not a failure you want to risk though. I'll probably make do with the simpler front to back parallel pieces as fitted by Klaus (?) rather than those which are vertical/right angles to the shaft. Still pondering the side seals. I may take a chance and gamble on having to remove the diff again if I lose. Not such a big deal when you've done it once I fancy. Also Sujit's comment on the press required is something I don't have easy access to. I'm not understanding the splitting of them as described by Trunt, but it sounds like a useful workaround.

Lots of bead blasting required. By the way, how are the brake lines firmly located in the lugs on the trailing arm? Mine were cable tied, Hardly an ideal engineering solution and dodgy at test time.


Malcolm

[sujitroy]

If you don't do the side flanges now, you wont have to remove the diff later. Just undo the 4 bolts on each side and slide out the shaft with the flange on it. Just drain the oil out of the diff.
Sujit

[trunt]

. I'm not understanding the splitting of them as described by Trunt, but it sounds like a useful workaround.

Malcolm

The method is to remove the big nuts on both drive flanges (to prevent things flying everywhere maybe just loosen them until there is some slack) put the ends together and use 4 high quality grade 8 bolts and nuts in the flange holes and tighten them up equally. Get it tight, real tight, whack them with a hammer a few times, try 2, either side of the housing. Leave it for a while and see if you can tighten some more. Be patient and hopefully one will go, the other also seems loosen up a bit, (maybe the shock of the first one going??) and I was able to separate the second one with a decent puller. Anyway 3 times now this has worked for me.. worth a try?

Just read that someone bolts one up to a driveshaft, same deal. never tried that, may help with the second one if it resists.

Not a great pic, I found it online..

images.jpg

[Guest]

OK Terry & Sujit. Got it now.

Malcolm

[richardthestag]

they will eventually leak. as you have it out. may as well do it.

best replace those nearly new tyres too as they will eventually wear out

[richardthestag]

By the way, how are the brake lines firmly located in the lugs on the trailing arm? Mine were cable tied, Hardly an ideal engineering solution and dodgy at test time.

Malcolm

should be push in plastic clips iirc they are like these

https://www.bresco.com/acatalog/For-3-16--diameter-pipe.-Triumph--Rover--Jaguar--VW--Opel--SAAB--Ford-Transit-and-Avenger-73100WHTP.html#SID=21

Nothing at all wrong with a good old cable tie, so long as the pipe cannot move the MOT man will be delighted. I frequently use cable ties to secure the rigid lines to the rear axle casing on Land Rovers. and also fuel lines to the chassis rails