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I have another oil cooler that looks another less bashed about than the current one as fitted.
Is there anything i ought to know before wielding the spanners?
Be ready to be dripped upon..........oh, and make sure the cooler is properly mounted on the anti-vibration bobbins, which also allow it to expand and contract without fracturing.
Don't think so - more likely impacts from dropped tools or the rad when replacing it etc. The fins are very soft, and can be carefully straightened in fact, if you have the patience. I had to replace mine as one of the pipes fractured (due to the anti vibration bobbins not having been used when it was fitted by a PO).
Despite my best efforts, ensuing work (like timing chain replacement) has "dinged" the new one. I view it as patina, lol.
To straighten fins, use a used hacksaw blade cut in half and the teeth ground off.
Slip between the fins and maneuver the blades to tease the fins straight.
Cheers Ian A
I had reasonable success with one of those stainless steel barber shop hair combs
I also found via a swap from BW35 to manual overdrive set up that the gearbox cooler was adding quite a lot of heat to the engine bay. before / after behaviour of my stag cooling system was significant. my advice would be to get those cooling fins straight again
Stags and Range Rover Classics - I must be a loony
To straighten fins, use a used hacksaw blade cut in half and the teeth ground off.
Slip between the fins and maneuver the blades to tease the fins straight.
Cheers Ian A
I used a 6-inch steel rule
PS I would give the replacement a good flush out after cleaning, you don't want any old crap going in your box
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