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Refurbished Stag soft top and frame refitting

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    Refurbished Stag soft top and frame refitting

    Hi,
    I'm new to the SOC and would be interested in any worthwhile hints or tips anyone would have with regard to putting back on my newly refurbished soft top and frame - things to look out for or beware of to make the job a little bit easier. I have made a couple of jig bolts as described in the manual for locking the frame in the correct position before fitting. Also, if there are any posts already in the forum about this topic that you could point me in the direction of, that would be very much appreciated too. The car I'm working on, with my brother, is a fully original 1972 Mk1 and it was a really rusty basket case when we bought it 3 years ago this November. It was really thanks to lockdown that we are as far ahead as we are now as we had so much spare time on our hands due to being unable to go anywhere, otherwise I reckon it would have taken us another one or two years! All that remains to be done to the car is to fit the soft top assembly, the seats, the engine and ancillaries, and the gearbox and exhaust system - all of these are sitting ready to drop in.

    Many thanks in anticipation!

    #2
    I'm working on rebuilding a spare soft-top frame and you can see my goings on here: https://youtu.be/8b9_5-CzjhI
    I do however, have an issue with one side of the frame in Stag no.1, when it is folded it doesn't go down enough. I think I have found the problem and mention a solution in the video. I didn't use jig bolts and this could be the reason why I have this problem.
    Sujit

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      #3
      Tape some polythene over the top of the tee bar ends to protect the vinyl. ( over the chrome bolt areas, each side)
      6 bolts to fit it 3 either side. Use generous sized load spreading washers. Best with 2 people for lowering in.
      adjust the height to clear the tee bar.
      adjust the tilt to suit the front rail catches.
      adjust the smaller 6 bolts of the rear rail to suit the tonneau catch. Check catch & release action… adjust if needed.
      Then fit the fabric cover & seals.
      repeat the 4 adjustment steps from the frame fitting.

      never used the special dowel bolts myself.

      rear seat out & cubby panels removed.

      door glass frame heights & angles may need adjustment to soft top seals.
      Last edited by jbuckl; 12 October 2022, 22:14.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by jbuckl View Post
        Tape some polythene over the top of the tee bar ends to protect the vinyl. ( over the chrome bolt areas, each side)
        6 bolts to fit it 3 either side. Use generous sized load spreading washers. Best with 2 people for lowering in.
        adjust the height to clear the tee bar.
        adjust the tilt to suit the front rail catches.
        adjust the smaller 6 bolts of the rear rail to suit the tonneau catch. Check catch & release action… adjust if needed.
        Then fit the fabric cover & seals.
        repeat the 4 adjustment steps from the frame fitting.

        never used the special dowel bolts myself.

        rear seat out & cubby panels removed.

        door glass frame heights & angles may need adjustment to soft top seals.
        All good advice as usual. I would also not fit the rear seat back as original in case you ever have problem with the tonneau release cable. I just use the slotted bolt holes and a bit of Velcro - you don’t actually need the Velcro
        Paul - 3 projects, 1 breaker - garage built and housing 2 white Stags. One runs, one doesn't

        Comment


          #5
          Fitting the hood to the car:
          a) Check that rear of back seat frame is safely covered in vinyl trim (to avoid damage to hood).
          b) First prepare as above for rear seat removal.
          1. Lay folded hood into the well, making sure the release control cable is not trapped.
          2. Fit a couple of bolts each side hand tight
          3. Erect the hood and lock down the front levers
          4. Check gaps between B-post and seals and close up any gaps (tap frowards with rubber mallet) but lift hood to ensure top seal is not trapped.
          5. Tighten bolts each side
          6. Release & lower back of hood and adjust rear catch striker to be central to catch hole and longest (unscrew).
          7. Close rear down and check that it latches and then releases.
          Chris

          Comment


            #6
            HI,
            Thank you all for your help. I haven't been in the best of health this past couple of weeks with RA so that's the reason I didn't come back to thank you sooner - I just wasn't in the mood to do anything on the car!
            I think I now have the hood sorted though. My main problem was that when the two front catches were located and locked, the rear of the hood just simply wouldn't stretch far enough back to allow the rear catch to go into place (or vice versa - rear in first then front wouldn't locate)). The hood (which was in surprisingly good condition) had obviously shrunk somewhat from having been in the stowed position for 15+ years in an old barn. My solution was to release the hood material from the rear frame, relax it and glue it back on - thankfully, there was just enough material to allow this to be done so the hood now fits perfectly with all catches located and locked. I just have to do some minor adjustments to make sure it stows away easily.
            Regards, George.

            Comment


              #7
              Sorry, being a new member, I haven't quite worked out my way around the SOC forum yet and don't know how to make a new post!
              I was just wondering if any of you would recognise this little plastic trim piece and where it fits on the Stag? It has somehow escaped my otherwise meticulous labelling process and I don't know where it goes back on!
              Any help/suggestions would be much appreciated. It measures 7 1/2 inches/190mm long and has three little Philips screws in it as shown which, I presume, are for mounting it to whatever surface it belongs.
              Thanks,
              George


              George. 20221105_192246a.jpg 20221105_192341a.jpg 20221105_192302a.jpg

              Comment


                #8
                It holds the wooden trim panel for the gear lever.
                Chris

                Comment


                  #9
                  CAF0ECAB-1C78-41A0-9FE2-415D4D0AF7EF.jpg
                  Dave
                  1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I believe it’s called the ‘coin-tray’ finisher.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      That's great - your help is much appreciated! Haven't just got to the gear lever trim yet. Engine, gearbox and exhaust system are all that have to be refitted so will fit that little part as soon as the gearbox is in place.
                      Regards,
                      George.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        George,

                        If you haven’t already done so, I suggest that you replace the rubber gaiter assembly underneath the handbrake lever whilst all the big oily bits are out. It’s pretty much impossible once they are refitted!



                        Dave

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Plus 1 with Dave, a must do now. It becomes a major problem/hassel if the car is all together, I've done it.
                          Cheers ian A

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