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    Paintable Stone Chip Spray

    Ok guys Ive stripped the underseal off most of the boot floor and one wheel arch just got one wheel arch and a few bits left to do as Im only going up to the floor area beneath the rear seat for the time being as I want the car on the road.

    Due to the fact that the underseal stripping process has took the car down to bare metal and revealed surface rust in places I have undercoated the stripped areas with Rust Buster epoxy paint as suggested by Bruce whos used it on the underside of his shell.

    To be honest the brushed on finish is not brilliant and I intend to overcoat it with red oxide etch primer as this should dry matt and could possibly be flatted to reduce the brush marks. My question is do you guys recommend the use of the over paintable stone chip stuff?

    I am planning to top coat the underside with Rustoleum Combi Color which boasts excellent flow out of brush marks and at the end of the day Im not after a concours or top of car body finish on the underneath.

    Interestingly when I removed the underseal that had been brought up about an inch onto the panel behind the rear arches, bearing in mind the car was "bare metalled" 10 years ago guess what I found underneath the 10 year old paint? yep more underseal, not good when I spent 3.5k on the respray 10 years ago, always wondered why they had applied the underseal to that height:X:X:X.

    Dave


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    #2
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    I used paint-overable underseal on my last project and so far it's still holding up well. However........

    it was a fairly precise application process. Underseal first then, aftera short drying time (overnight or so, I think), a light spray coat to provide a key. Before this light coat dries, then spray the top coat. On the system I used (Teroson and Standox) any thick application like brushing would have just led to the paint chipping off with time.


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    The answer isn't 42, it's 1/137

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      #3
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      go for 3m spray schutz - you can spray 2k body colour over it and it looks really nice

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        #4
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        Dave M wrote:
        I am planning to top coat the underside with Rustoleum Combi Color which boasts excellent flow out of brush marks and at the end of the day Im not after a concours or top of car body finish on the underneath.


        You can get combicolor mixed to your exact Triumph colour, also slightly thin itwith white spirit and apply with a gloss roller and you'll get a better result. For areas you can't reach use a sponge tippedbrush rather than a bristle brush. You also can get apretty goodfinish with combicolor if you colour-sand afterwards with 1500grit and then polish up, probably a bit OTT for underneath though. Heres one prepared earlier.....

        http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V19nr1QUaL0


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          #5
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          Thanks for the info re the combi colour Dan, is that your car in the video? finish looks excellent. Will try the roller method, maybe have to cut one down in size for inside the wheel arches
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            #6
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            Hi Dan

            That was done by roller ? Amazing, it looks brilliant - well done

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              #7
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              Yes its mine, bodywork doesn't justify having a professional repray plus lack of funds, but I wantedcar tidied up, it had the "rat" look.

              Advantagesof roller/combicolor
              • very low cost, ( £300! )
              • quite a good finish is obtainable,
              • very little mess or smell
              • UV protectors in paint, so hopefully less fade
              • No primer needed ( though I recommend a rust killer and primer )
              • Pretty inert stuff, seems ok over cellulose, no cracking, bubbles, shrinking etc.
              • Minor scratches etc easily buffer out.
              • People do not believe its done with a roller, they shake their head in disbelief.
              Disadvantages:
              • very labour intensive, surface prep must be as meticulous as spraying,
              • takes several months to do,
              • each layer must have 48 hours to go off,
              • each layer must be hand sanded ( to reduce buildup of orange peel ).
              • Paintremains soft compared to spray paint
              • Needs about 10 coats
              If you have the space,understanding neighbours etc or the money,and the car warrants it, then I'd recommend arepray everytime, but this is a low cost option, albeit labour intensive.


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                #8
                imported post

                DanDanTheGardeningMan wrote:
                Yes its mine, bodywork doesn't justify having a professional repray plus lack of funds, but I wantedcar tidied up, it had the "rat" look.

                Advantagesof roller/combicolor
                • very low cost, ( £300! )
                • quite a good finish is obtainable,
                • very little mess or smell
                • UV protectors in paint, so hopefully less fade
                • No primer needed ( though I recommend a rust killer and primer )
                • Pretty inert stuff, seems ok over cellulose, no cracking, bubbles, shrinking etc.
                • Minor scratches etc easily buffer out.
                • People do not believe its done with a roller, they shake their head in disbelief.
                Disadvantages:
                • very labour intensive, surface prep must be as meticulous as spraying,
                • takes several months to do,
                • each layer must have 48 hours to go off,
                • each layer must be hand sanded ( to reduce buildup of orange peel ).
                • Paintremains soft compared to spray paint
                • Needs about 10 coats
                If you have the space,understanding neighbours etc or the money,and the car warrants it, then I'd recommend arepray everytime, but this is a low cost option, albeit labour intensive.

                Dan

                Only doing the boot floor and under rear wheel arches at the moment as top bodywork is Ok and I want the car on the road. Ive removed the old underseal and wire brushed then Ive used rust buster followed by red oxide etch primer which Ive brushed on and there are some brush marks etc. Cant decide now wether I should put a stone chip coating on before over painting with the Combi Color or just go with the Combi Color on top of the primer and flat it out. As its underneath the car it might be Ok but it will be difficult to flat out.

                How does the Combi Color cover is it a case of building up coats to get good coverage?

                Dave
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                  #9
                  imported post

                  Coverage of unthinned combicolor is excellent if applied by brush, you should only need 1 or 2 coats, but you will probably have some brushmarks.If applying by roller without thinning you could do it in one coat but you will get orangepeel, you wont be able to flat it out easily, so I do not recommend roller unless it is thinned.

                  If thinned 30% with white spirit ( get the smelly kind - the other reduced odour type has additives that slow down drying). you will get less orangepeel but less coverage and you'll need 3 or 4 coats.

                  Take a look at this video, lots of info in their chat



                  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IZL-F9Zf02Q


                  Heres where I got the idea from ( a VW forum ).

                  http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopi...lit=combicolor






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