Fuel pipes etc kit to ethanol standard

[Paul Kelley]

Does anyone know of any supplier of a full kit of pipes, hoses and clips to SAE J30 R9 standard or equivalent, i.e. ethanol resistant? Rimmers and Paddocks offer most of the parts as far as I can see but not to this standard. E J Ward offer some piping. The complete system is illustrated on page 128 in the official Stag Repair Manual, attached. Fuel system from Manual.jpg
Suggestions welcome as always. Thanks, Paul.

[Lingen]

Paul.
The pipe from the tank to the fuel pump, and from the pump to the engine bay is usually black nylon, which is fully resistant to ethanol. The other hoses are almost all the same internal diameter, so all you need to do is buy a roll of the right stuff from your local motor factor, and cut it to the right lengths, using the old hoses as patterns.
Mike.

[Paul Kelley]

Thanks Mike. That's certainly one option to consider. Regarding the two 'black nylon' pipes you mention, would they have been nylon from the factory do you know? Given the car is approaching 50 years old and that I can't tell what's original and what POs might have done, I'd rather replace and be sure if possible.
Paul

[jbuckl]

Yes, nylon. (P.A. 6 or P.A. 66 ~ 66 has higher resistance, but P.A. 6 didn’t give issues for years here) Mk1 had a rear to front in nylon. Later cars had a steel portion, with rubber joins…most of those if original will now be problematic/hazardous.

Good idea to replicate the mk1 nylon & possibly add a fibre glass sleeve too.

The pipe does pass close to the silencer.

The nylon was a direct fit over the fuel pump banjo ferrules.

A new nylon pipe has to be hot before it can be pushed over the banjo ferrules…. A lighter or hot air gun will work…. Away from the car (!)

Get new seals / washers for the pump banjos in readiness.

Then the only rubber hose required is from bulkhead to filter & filter to carbs.

Dont rely on cheap or ill fitting clips.

[Paul Kelley]

Thanks Julian. My car is a Mark 2 so, if original piping, presumably would have the steel portion with rubber joins. I replaced the pump less than a year ago so seals for the banjos should be ok (came from Burlen and they have upgraded their seals etc for ethanol). Re the clips, Paddocks offer them but I'll check out LD Parts (Peter) and others. Useful feedback, appreciated! It seems to me that having the fuel hoses in good condition should be a major priority for all classic car owners, regardless of the added problem caused by ethanol. Paul.

[Lingen]

Paul.
Just for the record, my 1976 Stag has a nylon pipe all the way from the pump to the bottom of the bulkhead, then a short rubber hose connector to more nylon up the bulkhead and almost to the fuel filter. After that it is all rubber.That is how it has always been. The short connector is a favourite place for leaks as it is almost out of sight from above. And don't forget to check the blanking hose on the top of the petrol tank.
A common source of petrol fumes in the boot when it perishes.
Mike.

[DJT]

I bought a metre of this: https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/ethano...el-hose-6mm-14 and a metre of their 8mm back in July. The under bonnet pipes are 8mm (5/16) from the nylon pipe at the bulkhead to the fuel filter and from the filter to the T-piece in front of the carbs. 6mm (1/4) from T-piece to carbs. It is not cheap, but I can sleep easy knowing it is better quality than some unbranded rubbish off eBay.

[dasadrew]

On the subject of clips, I went through a phase of replacing those annoying spring clips with upmarket jubilee style ones. Mistake!! The jubliee type gradually "eat" into the hose, thus the clamping effect is reduced. The spring clips exert a constant pressure and keep the hose-to-pipe seal tight.

[Phil S]

You can also use copper micro bore plumbing pipe and fittings, compression or solder

[MandM]

Mine pipes are nylon from the pump to just in front the rear subframe on the nearside then it changes to metal and travels along the prop tunnel and halfway up the front bulkhead where it changes back to nylon, these changes are carried out via a short rubber connection. The one on the bulkhead often get overlooked as it hard to see,

This was my old bulkhead connector

IMG_20180913_173641.jpg P1080507.jpg My car was Built in September 1975 reg in 76

[jbuckl]

You can also use copper micro bore plumbing pipe and fittings, compression or solder

Nice, but not so nice for keeping the fuel cool.

[Goldstar]

Doesn’t copper transmit heat pretty well? Radiators are copper core aren’t they?

[Paul Kelley]

Thanks one and all for the continuing info: Mike for the changes in piping for a 76 model and DJT for the link - looks good option. Clips noted Dasadrew! So, one of several winter jobs for me is firstly to find out what I've got by way of pipework and joins and then to replace accordingly. P.

[jbuckl]

Doesn’t copper transmit heat pretty well? Radiators are copper core aren’t they?

Exactly… copper fuel pipes will soak up more heat than is good. The fuel could boil before it reaches the engine bay.

Likleyhood of that happening is very high to almost certainly

[trunt]

Exactly… copper fuel pipes will soak up more heat than is good. The fuel could boil before it reaches the engine bay.

Likleyhood of that happening is very high to almost certainly

Makes me wonder how my metal fuel pipe full of E10 in USA heat without a mechanical fan even works? But it does.. I have never experienced that.