Annoying little drip...................

[Guest]

Well, at last I have a Stag which almost doesn't leak. Screwed it all back together over the last few days and am delighted that everything works, except the inhibitor switch doesn't trigger the reversing lights. I'll follow the ROM procedure and trust that will come good. The 'almost' refers to an annoying drip from the right side front transmission sump bolt. Initially both front centre bolts leaked but I torqued up the left one a few Nms more and it stopped. The right one not so. I learnt years ago not to over torque trans sump pan bolts on Benzes so I'm loth to go too far. Before I do so, has anyone else been here and sorted it? I attach a pic of the box just before refitting with the offending bolt at centre left of the pic (centre right direction of travel). The threaded hole appears to go through to where the box joins the bell housing but there's no fluid in there so it must be escaping down the bolt hole under the gasket.



IMG_4855.jpg

[DMT]

Do you have a -ve crank pressure?

[Guest]

Getting beyond my pay grade talking about crank pressure. Not measured but can't see how it would affect the tranny. New crank rear seal installed whilst the box was out.

[DMT]

I had a very small oil leak from the bellhousing. Then I changed my carb that to one that did not have a vacuum take off connected to the cam cover. This vacuum gives a -ve pressure in the engine that reduces/stops small oil leaks. I added an active breather system which gave me back my vacuum and bingo the drip is now only a damp area.

If you open the oil cap with the engine running you should be able to feel a reasonable suction!!

Dave

[Guest]

Interesting Dave. I have the Strombergs piped into the RH rocker cover, so I must have negative pressure I guess. Not sure this would affect the transmission though.

Malcolm

[DMT]

Sorry if I have jumped the gun Malcolm, I assumed it was engine oil not transmission fluid leaking.

[Guest]

Not at all Dave; glad of any input, but all is now clear. The clue was perhaps in the pic.

I need to be pretty meticulous in eradicating any leaks as a car has to be examined before admission on to the Manx registry and the guys are pretty inflexible where leaks occur due to concerns for motorcyclists hitting patches of spilt oil.

Plucking up courage to lash out on a couple of stowage latches since the hood, whilst in good order, won't play nice when you drop it. Steady progress so far though, and the first time I've been in the guts of a British car since the 70s, Land Rovers and Massey Fergusons excepted.

Malcolm

[KOY 23]

If you’re sure that oil is running down the thread rather than from the gasket, I’d put a dollop of gasket sealant on bolt before screwing it in.

[singapore stag]

"Annoying little drip".................For a minute I thought you were referring to me?

[richardthestag]

"Annoying little drip".................For a minute I thought you were referring to me?

fret not Sukhi there are a fair few more ahead of you in the queue

Get some decent automotive gasket sealant and spread it on the shoulder of each of the bolts that is dripping as John Koy23 suggested

For the reverse lights i would be sure that the switch is working correctly first. i.e. when you select reverse there is connectivity through the switch (closed circuit) a simple multimeter will be able to confirm this.

If the switch is working then you will need to test through each connector and identify which has failed.

The electric circuit is dead easy, the green wire is the ignition controlled AND fused supply, the Green/Brown wire goes via connectors to the reverse lights.

At the side of the gearbox see if you cannot simply connect these two wires together, With the ignition on the lights should come on. If not check voltage at green wire and work back from that to the fuseboard. A 12v test bulb with a length of wire and and earth clip is very useful at detecting there is sufficient current to light the bulb. You can use this at various connectors on the green/brown wire to find the issue.

If you have a good 12v current to the green wire my "Go to" would be the gearbox connector near the starter motor and look at the green/ brown connector.

Richard, annoying big drip

[Guest]

Thanks John and Richard. John - as we used to say in Yorkshire - 'if the cap fits...........'.

Richard thanks for that inhibitor switch flow path. It's where I was going anyway but good to see it clearly set out. Yes to the gasket sealant. I may remove the grid cover I've fabbed up for the large square drain hole and see if I can access the top of the bolt holes, bolt removed, that way.

Malcolm

[Wheelz]

Just a further comment on the vacuum. Make sure the breather hoses are all good and tight, that there is a good felt washer on the dipstick neck, and the oil filler cap has a suitable gasket. Putting a hand over the oil filler hole should then reveal a slight vacuum.

[Guest]

Thanks Chris. Good advice. The hoses are a bit ropey and makeshift so your checks are on my list.

Malcolm