Warning Cluster LEDs

[DJT]

Having changed all the main dashboard lights for LEDs some time ago, I thought I might as well change the warning cluster bulbs as well. Previously I have bought all my LEDs from Classic car LEDs and been very pleased with the quality and service, so I ordered a set of 8 Triumph Warning Cluster LEDs from them. FYI The LEDs are supplied colour coded to ensure they are fitted in the correct place, as some positions are negative polarity and some positive. My clumsy fingers managed to break two of them during fitting but, when I confessed to the supplier, they sent me replacements FOC straight away. Having fitted all 8 I now find that the alternator wouldn't charge, so have had to revert to the original filament bulb for the IGN light.

I have also found that the Brake Warning light would not illuminate dimly as a test when the ignition is turned on, although it does light up brightly if I earth the PDWA switch wire. My late LD20001 series car has the Mk1 wiring for this system which incorporates the Oil Pressure warning light, despite the official wiring diagram saying this this changed to the Handbrake Warning light at LD20001. So I have had to revert to the original bulb for the Oil Pressure warning.

So, if anyone is contemplating buying the kit from Classic Car LEDs, take note that you may end up using only 6 of the 8 supplied. I have advised CCL of these issues but, apart from advising me to revert to filament bulbs in the two positions mentioned, they don't have a solution.

There is another supplier out there selling kits for this application and they claim to have all these problems resolved, but the kit is 4x the price of that sold by CCL.

[NeilR]

Same as mine, except mine are all LED, it's easy.
Just add a parallel resistor to the ign warning light, was years ago but seem to recall 47R 3W.
Slight change to Brake warning wiring & addition of a diode (1N4001). PDWA just lights Brake Warning (also LED),
Oil Switch lights both Brake & Oil warning lights at full brightness.

[DJT]

Thanks Neil, but that is easy if you are an auto-electrician. If I purchase a kit, is it too much to expect it to work without modifications, and without the supplier just shrugging their shoulders?

[NeilR]

Dave,

I think you should have received some kind of disclaimer that what you experienced could happen and it should have been stated at the time of ordering.

I don't have a great deal of faith in some of these suppliers especially if it's supplied to fit a particular vehicle and doesn't work as expected.

I am an electronics engineer (retired). So for me was easy.
I didn't use any kit, I added my own 1 watt LED's and series resistors onto the cluster PCB, so they are far brighter than comercial offerings anyway.

I also made my own instrument LEDs as well using the same spec of LEDs & similar series resistors integrated into old filament bulbs (was quite messy to get the glass bits out 1st).

[trunt]

I just replaced the clusters turn indicator bulbs with led’s, the rest seem fine to me..

Terry

[DMT]

6 out of 8 works for me. Classic Car LED's have been very helpful too. The best is the headlight bulbs. All 4 Hi/Low.

Forgot, Reverse bulbs also used for extra brake lights and fog lights.

[richardthestag]

Bringing balance back to The Force

This I just do not understand, e5 bulbs that never blow (suck ) are being replaced with a kit that costs over 2 pints of beer. And it doesn't work for all.

MTBF on an OE e5 bulb is about 1,000,000 years* certainly my 49 year old unit is still working beautifully. I have had no end of failures of cheapo, but paradoxically not cheap, LED bulbs that are operating outside the spec that they were built to and fail within a year. Maybe this supplier has that nailed, but you are sucking (maybe blowing) your hard earned cash on something that you may* not actually need

I might* just about understand replacing the glow worms that illuminate the dash gauges BUT then you need to spend even more to dim them so that they do not distract you when driving at night.

As far as folk who install LED brake lights that you could see from the moon and headlights that blind anyone else on the roads.... well I have no polite words for you at all

[DJT]

6 out of 8 works for me. Classic Car LED's have been very helpful too. The best is the headlight bulbs. All 4 Hi/Low.

Forgot, Reverse bulbs also used for extra brake lights and fog lights.

This was another issue I had with CCL. Their dual colour LEDs default to red, therefore sitting stationary with foot on brake but in reverse gear trying to manoeuvre into/out of a parking space causes much frustration as other road users cannot interpret your intention. I put this to Duncan and he wasn't interested. Koy23 came up with a relay modification which now ensures the reversing lights operate when intended.

[DJT]

This I just do not understand, e5 bulbs that never blow (suck ) are being replaced with a kit that costs over 2 pints of beer. And it doesn't work for all.

You have a good point there Richard. I think I might have been better satisfied spending the money on the two pints

[DMT]

It is so simple to rig up a safe system, just two std relays. My reverse light signal isolates all connections to the red input. In normal running the red input is connected to the brake lights, and when the fog light switch is on the brake connection is removed.

Who needs the extra brake lights or fog lights working when reversing.

I do agree though that it would be better to have defaulted to white rather than red.

Dave

[Goldstar]

Am I the only one who doesn’t have a problem seeing the standard cluster bulbs. I’m very happy for you if electronics is your hobby and you can add resistors and all of that into a very analogue system but I really don’t see the point of potentially introducing problems for the sake of it. If you can’t see the standard bulbs maybe you could clean the glass of the cluster or you possibly shouldn’t be driving at all

[DMT]

Paul, how many carrots do you eat!!!!

I have a paranoia of not realising segment lights are on, especially as my auto cancel doesn't work, and I am willing to live with extra brightness at night.

Dave

[richardthestag]

My "carrot" pie on the dash is marvellous. not yet had to replace a bulb, it does what it should do and needs zero maintenance.

Fix auto cancel asap would be my suggestion. there are too many ****e drivers on the road who believe that you are actually going to make that left turn you are approaching at the national speed limit.

I drove my brothers Honda itchifani5000 "whatever" thing recently. The dash was like looking at the whole Blackpool Promenade compressed into a 1 foot space. FFS I am honestly more interested in what is happening the other side of the windscreen

[dasadrew]

Am I the only one who doesn’t have a problem seeing the standard cluster bulbs. I’m very happy for you if electronics is your hobby and you can add resistors and all of that into a very analogue system but I really don’t see the point of potentially introducing problems for the sake of it. If you can’t see the standard bulbs maybe you could clean the glass of the cluster or you possibly shouldn’t be driving at all

+1
New bulbs, cleaned up contacts, no problems, and no Clusterf***

[trunt]

Fix auto cancel asap would be my suggestion. there are too many ****e drivers on the road who believe that you are actually going to make that left turn you are approaching at the national speed limit.

That’s why I replaced the turn indicator bulbs only, I kept leaving the damn things on! That along with hard mounting my flasher to amplify its sound cured me, I rarely do it any more..