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    Cold start problems

    Hello Stag folks,

    I have had my Stag for 21 years now ,so had most things apart for sevicing or repairs,inc carbs an choke mechanism.,last adjusted this about 3 yrs ago.Car has standard Stroms.

    The last few occasions it has been very difficult to start {Although hi torque starter motor fitted)

    The car has Magnacor HT s fitted and a electronic fuel pump (5yrs old).and a brand new battery

    I am fairly sure the choke is set correctly as I set it up as per workshop manual and it goes all the way on travel to the stop brackets.

    The fuel filter seems to be half full and after 4-6. 10 second cranks but no firing so I checked the plugs,and they were dry .

    The car runs absolutely fine once started.

    Amy help would be really appreciated
    Thanks Mark

    Last edited by maverick; 18 January 2023, 18:55. Reason: omission

    #2
    Sorry, don't know of any Amy. If you haven't done anything recently, how is the oil in the dash pots?
    Sujit

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by sujitroy View Post
      Sorry, don't know of any Amy. If you haven't done anything recently, how is the oil in the dash pots?
      Sujit
      Hi Sujit
      Dash pot oil is good
      Thank you for your input

      Comment


        #4
        Fuel pump may not be getting enough voltage to start. Check you can hear it pumping.

        If you still have the ballasted ignition system, is the 12 volt boost (from the started solenoid) working?
        Chris

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Wheelz View Post
          Fuel pump may not be getting enough voltage to start. Check you can hear it pumping.

          If you still have the ballasted ignition system, is the 12 volt boost (from the started solenoid) working?
          Hi Chris

          Yes I can hear the pump ticking,yes my system is ballasted.

          I dont know how I would check the 12v boost from the starter solenoid,could you please advise.

          You could be on the right track because when cranking when you turn the ignition key towards the off position is seems to fire most ,almost when ypu have stopped turning the enige over is seems to fire.

          Thanks Mark

          Comment


            #6
            For what it’s worth, if I haven’t used my Stag for 5 days or more, I turn on the ignition, then wait for the ticking from the fuel pump to all but stop. If I don’t do this starting is problematic. That can be up to45 seconds.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by maverick View Post

              Hi Chris

              Yes I can hear the pump ticking,yes my system is ballasted.

              I dont know how I would check the 12v boost from the starter solenoid,could you please advise.

              You could be on the right track because when cranking when you turn the ignition key towards the off position is seems to fire most ,almost when ypu have stopped turning the enige over is seems to fire.

              Thanks Mark
              I think that is your clue right there - the connection from the starter to the coil (which overrides the normal ballasted supply) may have failed and would give precisely the symptom you describe - won't fire with the starter turning, then tries to when you release the key.

              You could try (but not for long as the 6V coil will overheat) jumping 12V direct from the battery +ve to the coil (the terminal with the red and white and yellow and white wires on it) and if she fires right up, you have at least the issue defined.
              Header tanks - you can't beat a bit of bling.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by RobinLegin View Post
                For what it’s worth, if I haven’t used my Stag for 5 days or more, I turn on the ignition, then wait for the ticking from the fuel pump to all but stop. If I don’t do this starting is problematic. That can be up to45 seconds.
                Thanks Robin, I use this method
                Regards

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by wilf View Post

                  I think that is your clue right there - the connection from the starter to the coil (which overrides the normal ballasted supply) may have failed and would give precisely the symptom you describe - won't fire with the starter turning, then tries to when you release the key.


                  You could try (but not for long as the 6V coil will overheat) jumping 12V direct from the battery +ve to the coil (the terminal with the red and white and yellow and white wires on it) and if she fires right up, you have at least the issue defined.
                  Would this mean that the HT is not getting the full 12 v or the fuel pump is not getting it or both?

                  Thanks very much Wilf,that sounds on the money,even I can do that.

                  If that solves the problem ,....is it then a case of renewing the wire from the starter to the coil?

                  Best regards Mark

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Mark.
                    If you have a volt meter, a simple test is to see that there are around 12 volts at the +ve terminal of the coil when the starter motor is operating. (This is quite separate from the supply to the fuel pump which will not be affected). If the 12 volt supply isn't working, check that the wire to the coil is connected at the solenoid end-it might just have fallen off, or it may be that your hi-torque starter motor isn't fitted with the necessary terminal.
                    Not all of them are..
                    Mike.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Mark - HT.

                      And as Mike says, the necessary wire from the starter to the coil is possibly "mechanically interrupted" somehwere - ie.e the terminal could have fallen off at the starter or the joint to it failed.
                      Header tanks - you can't beat a bit of bling.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Lingen View Post
                        Mark.
                        If you have a volt meter, a simple test is to see that there are around 12 volts at the +ve terminal of the coil when the starter motor is operating. (This is quite separate from the supply to the fuel pump which will not be affected). If the 12 volt supply isn't working, check that the wire to the coil is connected at the solenoid end-it might just have fallen off, or it may be that your hi-torque starter motor isn't fitted with the necessary terminal.
                        Not all of them are..
                        Mike.
                        Mike
                        Thank you,Yes Ive got a multi meter will get the wife to crank while I check the voltage,is it just red terminal of the meter to the +ve terminal and black to an earth?.

                        I will check the lead on the solenoid .

                        So if that wire to the sol from coil is faulty does that mean it is literally too small a spark for a good ignition spark?,still cant undertand why the pluge were dry

                        Thank you very much for your input

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by wilf View Post
                          Mark - HT.

                          And as Mike says, the necessary wire from the starter to the coil is possibly "mechanically interrupted" somehwere - ie.e the terminal could have fallen off at the starter or the joint to it failed.
                          Mike

                          So if the wire is "mechanically interrupted" or terminal off is it a case of rerouting a new supply from coil to solenoid?


                          I intend to try your test as well,
                          Thank you very much

                          Regards Mark

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Or just repair the existing wire if a simple connection is all that is broken.

                            But first - diagnose the problem!
                            Header tanks - you can't beat a bit of bling.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by wilf View Post
                              Or just repair the existing wire if a simple connection is all that is broken.

                              But first - diagnose the problem!
                              yep diagnosis first of course .

                              thank you

                              Comment

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