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    Choke operation problems

    A while back, I changed both inner choke cables with cycle gear cables and fitted a new knob. I can pull the knob out fully to start the car, no problem. The problems begin a few seconds after starting, when I need to start pushing the knob back in as the engine warms/revs rise at idle. I just can't regulate it smoothly - I can get it fully out or fully in, but anything in between is really difficult to find. Pushing the knob in gently /part way seems to have little effect on reducing revs (although sometimes blipping the throttle does help bring down). It is becoming quite a pain getting the car started and warming up.

    Any ideas? are there any hints/tips for fitting / adjusting inner cables at the choke ends? Could it be an issue with the outer cables?

    #2
    Is there friction on the choke cam against the adjustment screw. I push and pull my choke in and out when the cam is not resting on the screw. put your foot slightly on the accelerator pedal and see if that helps. Sujt

    Comment


      #3
      Very early carbs do not have return springs on the choke levers..They were meant to have solid cables.. or they were there and go missing.

      Check if they are there and are free to operate.
      Terry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware

      www.terryhunt.co.uk

      Comment


        #4
        thanks both. pressing the accelerator slightly does not help. There is a return spring installed and it seems to be working ok (1973 Mk2).

        I am wondering if I may have installed the inner cable incorrectly so the cam is in the wrong position when off. Is there a diagram or photo somewhere that shows the position of the cam relative to the throttle adjustment screw when the choke is knob is all the way in?

        Comment


          #5
          First I would remove both cables and operate the choke arms to see how well they spring back, just because you see a spring doesn’t mean it’s working…



          https://www.socforum.com/forum/forum...ge2#post554688

          post 17 for lhd carb, I’ll post a pic for the other
          Last edited by trunt; 17 February 2023, 20:08.
          Terry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware

          www.terryhunt.co.uk

          Comment


            #6
            1EA1D904-B7C1-4405-93E3-89FA708EC6E9.jpg
            Terry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware

            www.terryhunt.co.uk

            Comment


              #7
              There are three holes in the bulk head you can use Top, Middle or Bottom, if you change which one the cables comes out of you will find it makes a big difference Middle one works the best for me.
              Last edited by Stagintow; 2 March 2023, 20:17.

              Comment


                #8
                When I replaced a choke cable with cycle brake lines, I made sure they didn't cross over when I set them in the pull part. Here's a video I made taking about the steps I took. I have not installed this cable in any running Stags of mine.
                The choke mechanisms themselves do seem to bind a little.



                Sujit

                Comment


                  #9
                  Update: I applied some grease to the choke cam and sprayed a little oil on the rotating shafts. It now works at about 80% on my 'smoothness of choke operation' scale, which makes all the difference for starting the car, and is certainly good enough for the time being (getting it demoted down the list of jobs to be done). The fix was pretty obvious, but I didn't think of it until I read these responses - so thank you!
                  Off for a drive now...

                  Comment

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