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    Rear brakes not balanced

    Hi All,
    my rear brakes are not balanced as per a failed MOT check, with more than a 20% braking force variation between L.H and R.H .
    Handbrake works fine.
    After fiddling with adjusters and dis-assembling and re-assemble, I am coming to conclusion maybe one or both cylinders faulty/ sticking.
    Anyone experienced similar and conclusion.
    Appreciate your thoughts.
    Regards
    Brian

    #2
    How are the rubber brake lines? Cylinders are not that expensive to replace. I recall a seal kit is almost 50% of the cost of new cylinders or something like that.

    Comment


      #3
      Once had a pair of lpr? Branded wheel cylinders.
      after a few months, the right side stopped working.
      It had been supplied with an incorrect size seal.

      +1 for hose suggestion from sujitroy.

      another suggestion is to check operation by holding the shoes in with two levers (drum off) & have an assistant operate the brake pedal gently & only about a half stroke.
      observe how the shoes move.

      Will need adjuster resetting after this check.

      This check also tells how well the adjuster is working too.
      There are 2 secrets to staying on top :- 1. Don't give everything away.
      2.

      Comment


        #4
        I bought my stag after it had been left with little/no use for 2 years. On the drive home found rear brakes turned really dodgy!!!

        Turned out to be both rear flex hoses blocked. The hoses were not very old.​

        Comment


          #5
          I too had an MOT advisory for brake imbalance across the rear axle - the tester told me it was within 1% of a fail.

          Don't muck about (brakes are too important) - if you can't find a simple and obvious reason, change everything - wheel cylinders, shoes, pull-off springs, handbrake levers, drums - the lot! Having done that my handbrake and service braking performance was transformed (the fronts were done earlier).

          It is just not worth mucking about with individual parts of the braking system, certainly not worth sorting out just one side..
          Header tanks - you can't beat a bit of bling.

          Comment


            #6
            The biggest problem I have had with rear brakes on all my Triumphs has been worn brake drums. Even when the shoes seem to be making full contact on worn drums they never seem to work as well as new drums and new shoes.
            If in doubt these days I just replace the lot.
            Neil
            TV8, efi, fast road cams and home built manifolds. 246bhp 220lbft torque

            Comment


              #7
              Thank you.
              good information.
              Will keep you posted.

              Comment


                #8
                don't forget to put some extra rubber grease on the pistons of the wheel cylinders as they come with very little and tend to seize with little use over the winter months.
                "The UK,s 2nd Most Easterly Stag" Quad Exhaust- ZF 4 Speed BOX

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by MandM View Post
                  don't forget to put some extra rubber grease on the pistons of the wheel cylinders as they come with very little and tend to seize with little use over the winter months.
                  Good advice.

                  Its really important to never use mineral grease on ’vegetable based’ (aka dot 4) brake fluid epdm rubber parts.

                  I bought a 500ml tub of AP Lockheed red rubber grease for these sorts of jobs & it’s served well.

                  Recently heard that silicone grease is ok to use too.
                  Sounds feasible….

                  Anyone know why it wouldn’t work with dot 4 fluid?
                  Seems as if it’s fine, no rubber incompatibility with any sort.
                  Last edited by jbuckl; 8 March 2023, 00:23.
                  There are 2 secrets to staying on top :- 1. Don't give everything away.
                  2.

                  Comment

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