Brake servo overhaul

[russel]

"Hello, I'm new to the group.

I have spent some time looking around the various forums and topics looking for some assistance with a brake servo. I haven't found what I was looking for, although there were some good photos that I thought were almost there in the topic called "Splitting a servo" which was dated 2012.

So here's the question (apologies if it has been asked / answered before, I did spend quite a bit of time looking before posting the question).

How does the shaft from the pedal come out of the disc which holds the diaphragm (I tried attaching a photo but failed miserably, I used the photo icon but couldn't get it accepted no matter what I entered in the popup box?)

The disk appears to be rigid plastic, possibly bakelite. I don't want to risk damaging the disk by applying to much pressure in the wrong direction."

[trunt]

Never done it, that’s the one thing I sent out!

but does this help? TR 6 but should be similar

http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-52/TR6-52.html

[sujitroy]

I'm always up for a challenge, but the cost of a repair kit is half the cost of getting a rebuilt one

[russel]

Never done it, that’s the one thing I sent out!

but does this help? TR 6 but should be similar

http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-52/TR6-52.html

Thanks. Have looked at the info from your link, and also the "buckeyetriumph" link from within that, will check this out tomorrow. The rest of the unit is disassembled, this is the last part. Will let you know if it works.

[russel]

I'm always up for a challenge, but the cost of a repair kit is half the cost of getting a rebuilt one

Yes it is. This is the reason I wanted to make sure I could get this last part disassembled without damage before investing in the repair/service kit. Didn't want to order the service kit first only to damage the unit and then need to by a new/refurbished unit on top. However if this last bit comes apart OK half the price of a new/refurbished servo is a big saving. The servo is also an interesting piece of kit, it's been worth taking apart just for a look inside and to get a proper understanding of how it works.

[jbuckl]

Make a pair of angle iron brackets to bolt onto both sides of the servo. (Don’t clamp the studs in a vice and expect them to be serviceable afterwards)
One angle iron should be about 3’ long.
turn the 3’ long one to undo the bayonet.
I believe the rod is retained to the actuator moulding hub with a circlip iirc.
Reassembly of the halves is better with an assistant or a special purpose clamp if you don’t have an assistant.

The kit prices have risen steeply.

[russel]

Make a pair of angle iron brackets to bolt onto both sides of the servo. (Don’t clamp the studs in a vice and expect them to be serviceable afterwards)
One angle iron should be about 3’ long.
turn the 3’ long one to undo the bayonet.
I believe the rod is retained to the actuator moulding hub with a circlip iirc.
Reassembly of the halves is better with an assistant or a special purpose clamp if you don’t have an assistant.

The kit prices have risen steeply.

Thanks for the input but I already have the two halves separated. I didn't need to make any special brackets, a brass drift and a mallet were enough, I just worked round and round tapping at the three points where the halves separate. As you only have to rotate one half about 10 or 20 degrees it didn't take long.

[russel]

Never done it, that’s the one thing I sent out!

but does this help? TR 6 but should be similar

http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-52/TR6-52.html

Since my last reply I have now had a chance to take another look. Using the info from the links you provided I found the metal fork that holds the shaft in place. It does just drop out if you put pressure on the end of the shaft and and tap the disc down on something. I tapped it against the heel of my hand to prevent damaging it on anything more solid.

Thanks for the advice and the link.